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Post by sall on Aug 3, 2013 15:00:53 GMT -6
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tigger
Administrator
Posts: 2,844
Staff Member
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Post by tigger on Aug 3, 2013 22:31:51 GMT -6
Should add a little extra rigidity, so yeah, worth a "performance trial". And X2 on the scratch built.
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Post by scottyaurorav8 on Aug 4, 2013 6:49:54 GMT -6
Yea i was wondering why GM only made the front STB bar for my car and the rear. When i had my supercharged regal GS, i put in a front and rear bar and it significantly helped the car during turns. A nice stable feel. The same for my 08' grand prix. I've just been too lazy and busy to make one for the aurora. It be an easy project and inexpensive, IMO worth it. Unlike the riviera STB bar the guy made, both the regal and grand prix bar had an arch after the attachments that raised the bar higher into the trunk and you couldn't see it. You might want to try doing something like that if space allows it.
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Post by awehlage on Aug 4, 2013 10:17:38 GMT -6
I think a rear STB would be more beneficial than modifying the rear stabilizer bars referenced in another thread.
I think that with the larger rear STS sway bar, new rear stabilizer bars and poly bushings the rear end is quit firm and stabile. Lowering the back end 1-1.5" would make it that much better.
Sent from my XT901 using proboards
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Post by sall on Aug 4, 2013 14:31:58 GMT -6
Yeah too bad I already have a custom sub enclosure back there in the way. I can always try it on the '98 and swap it to the '96 and make a new enclosure.
I agree. I have new rear shocks, upper mounts, STS 22mm sway and poly sway bar and end link bushings on the rear and it's great in comparison to stock. I'm always looking for that little bit extra though. I am starting to see a lot of modifications over there on the Riviera forum. Coil overs, etc and so forth.
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Post by awehlage on Aug 4, 2013 20:03:41 GMT -6
Sall: can you link the homepage to the riviera forum.
Thanks!
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Post by sall on Aug 20, 2013 12:21:37 GMT -6
Sall: can you link the homepage to the riviera forum. Thanks! Hey just now saw this. Should have asked via email when I didn't respond here haha. There is really not all that much going on there though that we haven't touched on here on our forum. rivperformance.editboard.com/forumAs for this thread I do believe I am going to fab up a bar eventually. Any suggestion on pipe diameter. Round stock or square stock?
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XJSman89
Administrator
Posts: 6,309
Staff Member
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Post by XJSman89 on Aug 20, 2013 13:42:39 GMT -6
Round stock would equalize the load better/stress on the brace would be carried more uniformly.
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Post by sall on Aug 20, 2013 14:12:46 GMT -6
Round stock would equalize the load better/stress on the brace would be carried more uniformly. Right on. O.D. suggestion? 1.0" or larger?
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Post by Kersh on Aug 21, 2013 12:35:53 GMT -6
Since torsion is not involved, I would think some 1" square tube would be best.
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Post by sall on Aug 21, 2013 13:12:49 GMT -6
Hey kersh you are about 2 hours away from me. We should meet up some time if we can find a few more members within that range. I get what you mean about torsion though. I will have to take a trip a Lowes and see what kind of materials I can gather. They do have 1" square stock. The price isn't too bad for 6 foot piece. www.lowes.com/pd_25102-37672-11743_0__?productId=3054845&Ntt=square+tube&pl=1¤tURL=%3FNtt%3Dsquare%2Btube&facetInfo=That and a 1/8" or 1/4" sheet steel for the brackets and should be in business. Maybe a sub $50 project. Not out of much then. I am always looking for something to do. One of my favorite parts about the Aurora. No after market. A blessing and a curse
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Post by Kersh on Aug 22, 2013 6:44:35 GMT -6
Hey kersh you are about 2 hours away from me. We should meet up some time if we can find a few more members within that range. If you're interested, there is an all Olds car show at the Carnation Mall in Alliance, Ohio on Sunday (August 25). Usually have 200-300 cars (depending on the weather). I'm having a pretty big debate with myself regarding taking the Aurora or the Cutlass. A friend offered to stop by and bring one of my cars so I can bring them BOTH!! (Hate to spend the $$$'s on two registration fees, though : Back to the strut bar...
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Post by sall on Aug 22, 2013 7:23:36 GMT -6
I may consider that!
I pulled the boot off the top of the strut mount last night. Going to have to go with a smaller gauge for the brackets. There just isn't enough thread on the mount studs for even 1/8" sheet. Since the studs are molded into the mount I don't see a way around it. However not an issue really as the front STB brackets are pretty thin gauge as well.
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Post by Kersh on Aug 22, 2013 8:24:13 GMT -6
What about using a tall nut, and machining a 1/8" groove at the bottom to reduce the nut diamater to about half it's current size (while still leaving ample thickness for strength) Then make the mounting holes in the 1/8" plate fit the diameter of the finished nut. That way the nut can sit down inside the plate to allow for thread engagement. Kind of like shanked lug nuts.
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Post by sall on Aug 22, 2013 9:33:40 GMT -6
I see that guy the Rivieria guy used some thin stuff like 16-18 gauge. We will see. I've got some other things to get to first! So someone else by all means can steal the idea
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Post by sall on Sept 2, 2013 16:17:25 GMT -6
After looking at this briefly today I think I can get rid of the OEM plate and use the custom one in it's place instead of using two. If I take my custom faux trim cover off the enclosure I can make it work and it will hold my enclosure in place instead of the faux trim cover. Will just have to carpet the box itself instead. No big deal really. Not as fancy haha. Referring to the black plate here. Pic stolen from shock write-up. This will still give me plenty of thread to grab. Or just put the new one under it instead of on top. Maybe get to this after this rear spring experiment.
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