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Post by mkbruin on Sept 14, 2013 19:09:18 GMT -6
Looking at the parts diagrams this thing is held in by only 2 nuts... how hard is this thing to swap out? I'm getting ~3 inches of upward/rearward movement under torque. This thing is shot...  |
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Post by renaldo0613 on Sept 14, 2013 21:02:00 GMT -6
Very easy to replace. Just place the jack, and a piece of wood under the oil pan to relieve pressure of the mount and unbolt, and replace. Easy as cake.
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Paulaurora
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Post by Paulaurora on Sept 14, 2013 21:14:35 GMT -6
you need to have something to hold the engine while u remove the mount and easier do it on a lift and its 30 min to 1h job .
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Post by renaldo0613 on Sept 15, 2013 7:45:21 GMT -6
you need to have something to hold the engine while u remove the mount and easier do it on a lift and its 30 min to 1h job . That's the point of the the block of wood and jack. The rest of the engone mounts will also help support the engine. I dunno, could be wrong for you 2nd gen guys...but all motor mounts are pretty much replaced the same way. |
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Post by sall on Sept 15, 2013 7:52:24 GMT -6
The FSM says for the front mount on 2G to lower the subframe. I believe Dan said he had to lower the subframe and raise the engine for proper clearance IIRC. OEM for that front motor mount.
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Post by mkbruin on Sept 15, 2013 11:01:23 GMT -6
Can anyone confirm that the Anchor 3020 is the mount for the front center mount?
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Post by ntrenn on Sept 15, 2013 18:01:38 GMT -6
That's it - it's in the Anchor catalog as transmission mount.
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Paulaurora
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Post by Paulaurora on Sept 15, 2013 20:26:12 GMT -6
only get Dealer motor mount aftermarket will die in 3 month.
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Post by nelson480 on Sept 15, 2013 20:28:28 GMT -6
I replaced this mount, and had to get it from the dealer. Also HAD to lower the subframe. It wasnt a picnic either. I tried all other ways.  But after you change it, your shifts from a stop and shifts going down the road will be MASSLY improved And that picture shows it upside down |
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Post by Kersh on Sept 16, 2013 10:11:21 GMT -6
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Post by mkbruin on Oct 3, 2013 13:15:51 GMT -6
I grabbed an Anchor 3020 from Advance... they price-match Rock Auto (cost plus shipping).
I'll do the job this weekend with the Anchor product, but I also found a bunth of threads on Pontiac boards for guys with the Bonnie GXP with the N* and the same issue.
Two solutions they have:
1) hockey pucks (3.5), 8" 1/2 threaded rod.
2) cut, and refilled the OEM with solid poly for a solid mount.
3) Hockey pucks inside steel tube with a welded top.
If this anchor mount goes within 3 months, I may swap to a homemade puck-based mount. They all are having good luck with it.
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plato442
Aurora Driver
Life, Liberty, and the pursuit of Oldsmobile...
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Post by plato442 on Oct 3, 2013 21:52:52 GMT -6
not quite the "piece of cake" as previously mentioned... replaced mine last month and it was very time consuming, with call the jacks i had and all the right tools it was still a large pain in the a$$
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Post by renaldo0613 on Oct 4, 2013 8:38:22 GMT -6
Welp must be a 2G thing. The front mount on the classics look far easier to pull out. My bad. Its not a "piece of cake" but very!! Doable.
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Post by nelson480 on Oct 6, 2013 20:56:54 GMT -6
I grabbed an Anchor 3020 from Advance... they price-match Rock Auto (cost plus shipping). I'll do the job this weekend with the Anchor product, but I also found a bunth of threads on Pontiac boards for guys with the Bonnie GXP with the N* and the same issue. Two solutions they have: 1) hockey pucks (3.5), 8" 1/2 threaded rod. 2) cut, and refilled the OEM with solid poly for a solid mount. 3) Hockey pucks inside steel tube with a welded top. If this anchor mount goes within 3 months, I may swap to a homemade puck-based mount. They all are having good luck with it. I seen this when changing mine and that sounds like a mediocre repair IMO. You will feel the engine so much.. this is an oil filled mount so you dont feel the engine vibrations |
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Post by mkbruin on Nov 15, 2013 9:56:49 GMT -6
Got this done.
4 hours start to finish.
What a PITA.
Had to drop the subframe AND jack the engine. Barely got the part out. Hopefully this is sold before the Anchor replacement goes out, otherwise, I am going hockey puck.
When I got done with this one, I felt like hurting the engineer that designed this thing.
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Paulaurora
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Post by Paulaurora on Nov 15, 2013 11:41:21 GMT -6
wow ye it sucks when u dont have a lift it takes 40 min on a lift.
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Post by civilservant on Jul 29, 2019 10:14:40 GMT -6
I have a 2003 Aurora with the 4.0 in it and need to replace the front mount. How do you access the top of the mount? Do I need to drop the subframe as mentioned above? Is there a place to get a manual on this showing how it's attached? Nothing is easy to reach on this?
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tigger
Administrator 
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Post by tigger on Jul 29, 2019 15:29:07 GMT -6
How do you access the top of the mount? Do I need to drop the subframe as mentioned above? Is there a place to get a manual on this showing how it's attached? Nothing is easy to reach on this? Yes, you will have to lower the cradle. The mount bolts to the cradle on the bottom and to a bracket on top. The bracket then bolts to the engine. You unbolt the mount from the cradle and the bracket from the engine, support the engine, lower the cradle, then remove the mount and bracket together. Here's a pretty good write up from the Caddy Owner's Forum; Motor Mount (Front) Replcaement |
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