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Post by aldrichd on Mar 23, 2008 14:41:17 GMT -6
No I didn't eat off of the engine but I keep it clean enough to where I could eat off of it if I wanted to!
I gapped mine at .50. Even the guy at O'Reilly said .50.
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Post by austinator on Mar 23, 2008 18:54:11 GMT -6
hah... 0.050 guys...you're going to have trouble getting them to .50
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Randy T.
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Post by Randy T. on Mar 23, 2008 19:19:49 GMT -6
No I didn't eat off of the engine but I keep it clean enough to where I could eat off of it if I wanted to! I gapped mine at .50. Even the guy at O'Reilly said .50. I believe my Aurora before I believe anything someone from O'reilly's says.  |
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Post by Randy T. on Mar 23, 2008 19:20:43 GMT -6
hah... 0.050 guys...you're going to have trouble getting them to .50 I had to bend it all the way to the other side of the plug but it worked!  |
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Post by Randy T. on Mar 23, 2008 19:53:35 GMT -6
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Post by Randy T. on Mar 23, 2008 19:55:03 GMT -6
hah... 0.050 guys...you're going to have trouble getting them to .50 Looks like you added an extra zero. |
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Post by aurorabrain on Mar 23, 2008 21:14:56 GMT -6
These are off 2 '97 Auroras, this sticker is on almost every car in the U.S.. When it's time to gap the plugs you look at this sticker. I am pretty sure that says .060. They changed it to .050" when the part number changed from the original plug used. The car will actually run better with less gap on a high compression engine. |
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Randy T.
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Post by Randy T. on Mar 23, 2008 22:07:55 GMT -6
These are off 2 '97 Auroras, this sticker is on almost every car in the U.S.. When it's time to gap the plugs you look at this sticker. I am pretty sure that says .060. They changed it to .050" when the part number changed from the original plug used. The car will actually run better with less gap on a high compression engine. That sucks.  Good to know. You would think that in a thread about installing spark plugs, someone would have stated that fact before. I know they said to gap them at .050" but I didn't ever see a reason why or the fact that it had been changed. I wonder how many people have installed them at .060". Looks like I get to do it again. At least I don't have to change the wires this time. |
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Post by ttyfxr on Mar 23, 2008 22:26:07 GMT -6
About changing the rear plugs on a classic, I had a 96 and after I got the coil pack off, I cut a notch in the bolt holes so that if I EVER had to pull the pack again, I wouldn't need to remove the bolts, just loosen them.
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Post by gearhead455 on Mar 24, 2008 7:22:16 GMT -6
I removed all the rubber boots out of my spark plug sockets long ago for some reason or another. I used an extra length of fuel line to start the spark plugs, (also prevents cross threading). To remove them from the hole I used a retractable magnet (from harbor freight  . Doing it this way I didn't have an issue with the socket sticking in the hole. -- Just my two cents. |
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Post by Randy T. on Mar 24, 2008 16:27:47 GMT -6
Took the plugs out today and regapped them at .050", took me about 30 minutes. Getting faster. Also added another ground while I was at it. |
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Post by BlackButy on Mar 24, 2008 17:40:39 GMT -6
I agree about the shorter gap. When I pulled my AC double platinums at about 35,000 miles the gap had expanded for whatever reason to .059-.067. Those plugs were run hard with a test of tons of different fuel additives, octane and octane boosters as well, so that could have a lot to do with it. The plugs were bad, but not shot so I regaped them to .050 and it ran a lot better. I noticed that the higher rpms were stronger, my guess is the lack of spark blowout. I did change plugs anyway though. The NGK iridiums I went with have a preset gap of .060 and the car runs better with these plugs than it ever has, period. I think the very thin iridium tip is more capable of handling a larger gap than a copper or platinum tipped plug. I have also stuck to using 93 Shell with a bottle of Techron every so often. Some may not agree but I feel that the 89 octane that I was using for a while ran far too lean, causing my plugs to run hot and expand a bit. Premium fuel burns much slower that lower octane garbage fuel.
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Post by aldrichd on Mar 25, 2008 19:05:43 GMT -6
hah... 0.050 guys...you're going to have trouble getting them to .50 No trouble at all. The new plugs were a little shy of the .050. They were all about .045 to .048 out of the box. All it took was a little upward pressure from the gap tool and .050 fell right in. The old plugs were all about .048 (give or take a little) and they were the same type AC plugs as the ones I put in. |
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Post by austinator on Mar 25, 2008 19:19:31 GMT -6
hah... 0.050 guys...you're going to have trouble getting them to .50 I had to bend it all the way to the other side of the plug but it worked! I'm glad someone got it |
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Post by aldrichd on Mar 26, 2008 8:35:19 GMT -6
I had to bend it all the way to the other side of the plug but it worked! I'm glad someone got it Dooh. I missed it. Ha Ha. Here's what my owners manual says about spark plug gap. Spark Plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . AC Type 41-929 Gap: 0.050 inch (1.52 mm) |
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Post by jason on Mar 26, 2008 8:50:43 GMT -6
I use feeler gages Mic's. etc at work and have noticed that some peoples idea of a proper gap adjustment is different than others. For example lets say a person adjusts the spark plug to 0.050 and then hands it to five other guys to double check, there are going to be a few of them that say it should be a tighter fit or looser which stands to reason that shouldn't there be a bit of tolerance if only the slightest bit ?
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Post by aldrichd on Mar 26, 2008 8:55:18 GMT -6
The spark plug gap does not have to be right on. Close is usually good enough.
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Post by prc96rora on Mar 29, 2008 7:51:07 GMT -6
Can I jump in on this thread. I tried to remove a couple of the front plugs to check the condition and could not get them to budge. Whoever put them in before must have tightened the snot out of them. I fear that I might break one off if I keep wrenching, what should I do? Thanks
paul
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Post by duley3 on Mar 29, 2008 8:12:53 GMT -6
Can I jump in on this thread. I tried to remove a couple of the front plugs to check the condition and could not get them to budge. Whoever put them in before must have tightened the snot out of them. I fear that I might break one off if I keep wrenching, what should I do? Thanks paul I have had this problem before with other cars. What I would do was warm the engine up a little and then try it again. Most of the time it would work because of the heat. Just something you could try. But be careful you don't burn yourself on something. Good luck |
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Post by aldrichd on Mar 29, 2008 20:53:26 GMT -6
When I replaced my plugs there were a few that were really tight. I just kept a constant firm pressure on them and they finally broke loose. It's almost the same principal for opening a stubborn jar of pickles.
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Post by Randy T. on Mar 29, 2008 23:31:29 GMT -6
Can I jump in on this thread. I tried to remove a couple of the front plugs to check the condition and could not get them to budge. Whoever put them in before must have tightened the snot out of them. I fear that I might break one off if I keep wrenching, what should I do? Thanks paul I have had this problem before with other cars. What I would do was warm the engine up a little and then try it again. Most of the time it would work because of the heat. Just something you could try. But be careful you don't burn yourself on something. Good luck Don't let it get to warm though, just a little bit. At least not to operating temperature, you don't want to tear the threads out. A lot of people over torque the plugs when they put them in without anti seize, then they get locked in really tight. Most of mine were the same way. |
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Post by prc96rora on Mar 30, 2008 18:17:10 GMT -6
Ok folks, so after reading this entire thread I'm still not sure of the correct AC plug # for my 96. What is the correct #? Thanks
paul
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Post by austinator on Mar 30, 2008 18:20:04 GMT -6
41-950's
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andyfi
Aurora Watcher
1995, 4.0, 300.000 km!
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Post by andyfi on Aug 31, 2009 9:57:52 GMT -6
Do You have any pictures of the replacement of spark plugs?
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andyfi
Aurora Watcher
1995, 4.0, 300.000 km!
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Post by andyfi on Sept 2, 2009 1:17:16 GMT -6
no? Never mind . Yesterday i replaced spark plugs in my Rora. It was hard to replace the spark plugs near front window. The operation lasted about half hour. I used NGK TR55. |
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Post by bubbasqueeze on Nov 23, 2009 17:21:39 GMT -6
Just got done doing my plugs and wires. Thanks for the thread, I followed it to a tee.
One extra tid bit of info for any one doing this, maybe it will be the same on your Aurora. My 1997 model has elongated slip slots for the back 2 10mm bolts holding the coil pack on. They don't actually have to be removed which is good, they're so hard to get at. Just loosen them a half turn each, if the front tow are already out... The coil pack will slide forward due to the slots about half inch and then come right off.
It goes back the same way, just slide the coil pack on with the elongated bolt slots lined up and you're good to go. Taking them 2 back bolts all the way out in such a confined space could be a real pain.
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Post by bubbasqueeze on Nov 23, 2009 17:44:07 GMT -6
Having properly and identically gapped plugs is critical for proper engine performance.
When the spark leaves the coil pack on it's way to your plug it shoots through the wire until it hits your plugs electrode where for all intents and purposes it stops..
That's right, as crazy as it sounds the pulse stops right there, builds slightly, then it jumps to the other contact (the ground) on your plug. Due to the amount (width) of gap it will take more... Or less energy for the electricity to jump said gap. What determines the amount is the width of the gap.
If you have a gap of .040 the spark (because it doesn't have to leap as far to ground) will not be as hot as a spark that has to leap .050 of a gap. The wider the gap the more energy expended in getting to the other side. And a consequence of this is a hotter or harder hitting cylinder.
Not having all plugs gapped the same will cause the engine to run out of balance. It might not be much, but it screws up your vacuum and we all know that modern computers have a brain and it monitors and makes decisions based on the input from sensors that are all over the fricken motor.
Be consistent and reap the rewards. Your car will love you and last longer.
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Post by Randy T. on Nov 23, 2009 19:11:47 GMT -6
Just got done doing my plugs and wires. Thanks for the thread, I followed it to a tee. One extra tid bit of info for any one doing this, maybe it will be the same on your Aurora. My 1997 model has elongated slip slots for the back 2 10mm bolts holding the coil pack on. They don't actually have to be removed which is good, they're so hard to get at. Just loosen them a half turn each, if the front tow are already out... The coil pack will slide forward due to the slots about half inch and then come right off. It goes back the same way, just slide the coil pack on with the elongated bolt slots lined up and you're good to go. Taking them 2 back bolts all the way out in such a confined space could be a real pain. A lot of people cut the slots in them, they didn't come that way from the factory. |
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Post by bubbasqueeze on Nov 23, 2009 22:31:29 GMT -6
Just got done doing my plugs and wires. Thanks for the thread, I followed it to a tee. One extra tid bit of info for any one doing this, maybe it will be the same on your Aurora. My 1997 model has elongated slip slots for the back 2 10mm bolts holding the coil pack on. They don't actually have to be removed which is good, they're so hard to get at. Just loosen them a half turn each, if the front tow are already out... The coil pack will slide forward due to the slots about half inch and then come right off. It goes back the same way, just slide the coil pack on with the elongated bolt slots lined up and you're good to go. Taking them 2 back bolts all the way out in such a confined space could be a real pain. A lot of people cut the slots in them, they didn't come that way from the factory. Wow! You mean finally in life I get a lucky break? I'm liking this car way to much Come to think of it, the previous owner was a mechanic and an Aurora Enthusiast. He bought it with 50K on it, and now I've bought if from him with with 112K. I would bet he's the one that slotted the bolt holes on the coil pack. When I see him again I'll thank him for it. What a great forum this is. I can't believe the wealth of knowledge here. I was going to buy a tech manual on the car till I found this site. Now I'm like.. Why bother. It's all been done and done again! I'm already thinking about buying another Aurora |
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Post by jeremy1980 on Nov 26, 2009 23:22:03 GMT -6
What a great forum this is. I can't believe the wealth of knowledge here. I was going to buy a tech manual on the car till I found this site. Now I'm like.. Why bother. No question this is a great resource for all of us. A service manual can still be a huge help though. I got on here before I bought my Aurora, and I bought a service manual off ebay shortly after. It's been a huge help for me. Just a few weeks ago I had all 3 volumes of that manual laying open on my car with a couple friends and I pouring over instructions to troubleshoot a problem. |
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Good to know. 
. Doing it this way I didn't have an issue with the socket sticking in the hole. 
