Post by LAurora on Feb 28, 2014 20:34:56 GMT -6
I have a 2001 4.0 with 194,000 miles.
My new problem is a high idle RPM, and what I'm going to call a sticky RPM (it seems to get stuck high when I accelerate and doesn't drop down quite like it should).
Everything was running fine, when I decided to replace the valve cover gaskets. I had an oil leak for a while, and it was covering the front of my engine, and the bottom. I got my new gaskets, and decided to start with the rear because it would be the hardest. I pulled the secondary air pump crap off, the vacuum hoses, the ignition coil pack, the plug boots and the spark plugs (which had a significant amount of oil in all 4 of the chambers... looks like it was a good idea to change the gasket). I pulled the valve cover off, cleaned it, and put a new main gasket, spark plug hole gasket, and ignition coil ground gasket. I put the cover back on (that was a PITA!), and reassembled everything. When I went to start up the car, it decided to misbehave and start idling very high. I turned it off, and tried again. Same deal. Once it starts, it climbs to 2k RPM and after 10-15 seconds drops down to 1200RPM where it will sit.
In addition to idling much higher than it should, it is behaving rather strangely. When I am in Park or Neutral, the RPM will climb higher, to over 2k. When I am in Drive/Reverse/D1/D2/D3 it drops back down to idle at around 1200 RPM. When I drove it around, it would occasionally try to cut out on me and run even rougher. I went to Sears, paid way to much for some wrenches, and came back out to go home. It started up, climbed to 2k, dropped to 1200, and then I started driving. When I pulled up to the stop sign, it started cutting in and out like it was trying to die, the RPM dropped down to 500 and I had to hit the gas to prevent it from dying. On the way home, it did the same thing at a couple of the stops. At some stops it would try to cut out, at others it would behave fine. Finally, there is some really rough shifting from drive to Neutral/Reverse/Park. I'm guessing this is due to the high RPM, but want to double check.
I'm concerned I cracked/broke something and gave myself a vacuum leak while I was replacing the rear valve cover gasket.
So far, I cleaned the throttle body literally 4 days ago, so its not a dirty throttle body. I also replaced the throttle position sensor for two reasons: 1)it kept throwing a low voltage and an intermittent voltage code 2) when I disconnected the sensor, it would idle at around 750 RPM. The new throttle position sensor is in and it is still behaving the same way. I tried to do the carb cleaner spray trick to see if it would increase RPMs, but am not sure I am doing it right. It seemed like the RPM would change when I sprayed the intake manifold on the drive belt side, but I'm not sure if it was me or the idle behaving strangely.
At this point, what should I be checking? Is it possible to replace the mass of hard plastic vacuum hoses that sit on the top of the engine? Would a crack/leak from one of those even cause an increased idle RPM?
My new problem is a high idle RPM, and what I'm going to call a sticky RPM (it seems to get stuck high when I accelerate and doesn't drop down quite like it should).
Everything was running fine, when I decided to replace the valve cover gaskets. I had an oil leak for a while, and it was covering the front of my engine, and the bottom. I got my new gaskets, and decided to start with the rear because it would be the hardest. I pulled the secondary air pump crap off, the vacuum hoses, the ignition coil pack, the plug boots and the spark plugs (which had a significant amount of oil in all 4 of the chambers... looks like it was a good idea to change the gasket). I pulled the valve cover off, cleaned it, and put a new main gasket, spark plug hole gasket, and ignition coil ground gasket. I put the cover back on (that was a PITA!), and reassembled everything. When I went to start up the car, it decided to misbehave and start idling very high. I turned it off, and tried again. Same deal. Once it starts, it climbs to 2k RPM and after 10-15 seconds drops down to 1200RPM where it will sit.
In addition to idling much higher than it should, it is behaving rather strangely. When I am in Park or Neutral, the RPM will climb higher, to over 2k. When I am in Drive/Reverse/D1/D2/D3 it drops back down to idle at around 1200 RPM. When I drove it around, it would occasionally try to cut out on me and run even rougher. I went to Sears, paid way to much for some wrenches, and came back out to go home. It started up, climbed to 2k, dropped to 1200, and then I started driving. When I pulled up to the stop sign, it started cutting in and out like it was trying to die, the RPM dropped down to 500 and I had to hit the gas to prevent it from dying. On the way home, it did the same thing at a couple of the stops. At some stops it would try to cut out, at others it would behave fine. Finally, there is some really rough shifting from drive to Neutral/Reverse/Park. I'm guessing this is due to the high RPM, but want to double check.
I'm concerned I cracked/broke something and gave myself a vacuum leak while I was replacing the rear valve cover gasket.
So far, I cleaned the throttle body literally 4 days ago, so its not a dirty throttle body. I also replaced the throttle position sensor for two reasons: 1)it kept throwing a low voltage and an intermittent voltage code 2) when I disconnected the sensor, it would idle at around 750 RPM. The new throttle position sensor is in and it is still behaving the same way. I tried to do the carb cleaner spray trick to see if it would increase RPMs, but am not sure I am doing it right. It seemed like the RPM would change when I sprayed the intake manifold on the drive belt side, but I'm not sure if it was me or the idle behaving strangely.
At this point, what should I be checking? Is it possible to replace the mass of hard plastic vacuum hoses that sit on the top of the engine? Would a crack/leak from one of those even cause an increased idle RPM?