For anybody doing this in the future. I was getting clunking noises from both sides while driving with palpable play in the passenger side. Did both of them after soaking the cam adjusting bolts in PB blaster off and on for about 2 weeks and soaking the rod end to knuckle joint with pb blaster over night. Stuff came apart with zero issues- didn't even need a pickle fork or tie rod separator.
Hardest part of the job is realizing that the cam adjuster bolts WILL come out (and go back in) fairly easily despite the lack of room from the cradle and fuel tank. Just wiggle and twist a little until they find their path. Now off to the alignment shop.
Post by dirtyoldsman on Jun 9, 2015 7:15:51 GMT -6
Bucks is correct.I was going to drop the rear craddle but I found his thread. The method I used was use one hand on the tip of camber bolt and the other hand on the cam part of the bolt. After you remove the cam-bolt nut. Carefully tap bolt towards gas tank. Use tip of bolt and turn it so cam goes past edge of tank. Then hold bolt on cam side and flip tip-side of bolt down which will let it clear the tank/craddle. Also this part is available at most autoparts stores I used moog. There are 2 types with the same part numbers in their system. One looks like oem, the other is made better but 2x as heavy AND is made of a solid one piece tube ,while the stock is a u shaped , bent flat-stock with the ends welded on. I prefered the solid round. In my pics, the box with 2 stickers is the solid round one. 1 sticker is stock looking one. Only 1 round one was in stock. Found 5 u shaped ones locally.