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Post by awehlage on Aug 18, 2014 15:58:03 GMT -6
Hello fellow members!
On my way home from the Twin Cities yesterday my drivers side hub decided to blow up and spew grease ALL over the inside of my wheel and wheel well. What a mess! Needless to say a box of shop towels and some degreaser later I determined it to be the wheel bearing/hub and not the CV joint which I just replaced one week ago.
So I read some threads and some recommended the Timkin or SKF replacement and not going with ACDelco. I am leaning towards SKF but want real world reviews.
What brand have you used and how many miles since you replaced? Oh yeah, I am not determining price in this decision either.
Thanks!
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Post by saurora on Aug 18, 2014 16:54:11 GMT -6
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Paulaurora
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Post by Paulaurora on Aug 18, 2014 17:29:33 GMT -6
I used SKF on all my Olds I Owen the never failed me replaced it in my intrigue on 120k and on 205k still had no issue.
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tigger
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Post by tigger on Aug 19, 2014 0:09:17 GMT -6
I'm at 50k+ on a right front Timken, knock wood. The other 3 are originals AFAIK (knock wood again) so I can't really bad-mouth GM/Delco either. That being said, I'm planning a rotor/caliper upgrade for next spring and figure I might as well replace the hubs while I'm in there. I'm leaning toward the SKF's (based on first hand recommendations).
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Post by awehlage on Aug 19, 2014 8:09:41 GMT -6
Thanks everyone! I found an SKF for $80 so I'm going with that. Thought about replacing both fronts but why fix it if it isn't broke?!?
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plato442
Aurora Driver
Life, Liberty, and the pursuit of Oldsmobile...
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Post by plato442 on Aug 19, 2014 23:20:01 GMT -6
I bought two Timkens and replaced both
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Post by guy48065 on Aug 20, 2014 7:27:28 GMT -6
I usually look for the cheapest replacement part but for some reason GM FWD cars just EAT wheel bearings. I don't know if that's because of the way the suspension is engineered or maybe GM uses...let's call it "minimum spec" parts. I buy the best wheel bearings I can get so I don't have to repeat the job every few years. SKF for now--but companies are constantly changing their specs or sources. Sometimes to make them better, sometimes to make them cheaper  It's best to compare side by side, if possible. The <$50 ones are noticeably thinner and lighter castings with low quality connector for the ABS sensor. |
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buck91
Aurora Watcher
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Post by buck91 on Aug 21, 2014 1:07:14 GMT -6
Found the job extremely easy on the '01; must have been lucky.
Anyhow, picked up a raybestos "professional grade" unit on amazon. Chinese but a little pricer than some. Probably wont last as long as timken or skf but its a good name we will see.
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Randy T.
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Post by Randy T. on Aug 21, 2014 6:19:00 GMT -6
I look around the salvage yard for new ones that have been installed, they come out real easy, there are a lot of GM cars that have our same suspension. I have a couple wheel bearings for spares that I have picked up. I have not had that many wheel bearing problems, I think I have changed one on my car, I have put 100,000 on it, it's up to 237,000 at the moment.
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Post by awehlage on Aug 21, 2014 13:09:57 GMT -6
Installed the SKF...no change in the low tone hum I experience when driving 25+ mph going straight or turning left. Noise subsides when turning right.
So now I have a brand new CV joint, outer tie rod end and wheel/hub bearing on the front drivers side. This sound is like a lifted truck on the highway running mud tires.
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Paulaurora
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Post by Paulaurora on Aug 21, 2014 13:25:02 GMT -6
it might be other side bearing as well noise can travel. I herd noise on left side when my right side bearing was the one that made noise. or it might be something else.
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Post by awehlage on Aug 21, 2014 17:12:37 GMT -6
^ I had a hunch Paul so seeing that the old drivers side hub was still good I replaced the passenger side and what do you know....I couldn't even turn the passenger side hub when I took it off. I'm guessing its original to the car because it was a pain to get off.
But now she's fixed and I'm happy!
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Paulaurora
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Post by Paulaurora on Aug 21, 2014 17:27:04 GMT -6
yey:)
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tigger
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Post by tigger on Aug 21, 2014 19:24:16 GMT -6
Makes sense, right turns increase load on left side, left turns increase load on right. Glad you're gliding again!
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Post by awehlage on Aug 21, 2014 22:04:46 GMT -6
I guess I wasn't paying very good attention in physics class because I was totally thinking that if you turn right it decreases load on left side. Hence why I changed the drivers side hub first.
I always think of when I watch Motortrend and they do the slalom course, turn right and put more load on the right because the nose of the car dips the same way you turn?!?
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buck91
Aurora Watcher
Posts: 98
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Post by buck91 on Aug 25, 2014 9:17:40 GMT -6
Used Raybestos Professional grade on the front passenger side earlier this year. Chinese but good reviews and feedback. I will be curious to see how long it lasts.
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Post by youngolds23 on Sept 12, 2014 21:16:04 GMT -6
Right now my car has been bugging me with a kind of vibrating deep humming noise when going over 30 mph and it gets worse when I step on the brakes to start slowing down.. But the faster I go it starts sounding more high pitch kind of like a ricer in a Honda with an after market muffler.. thats the best I can describe it as.. Like a little muffler in the front.. We already checked if theres a bad gasket from the manifold but its not that. and it only makes the noise when the car is running, not while accelerating on park. The noise goes with the speed and not the RPM. I have a feeling its the hub assembly/bearings. But when im on the freeway about 70 mph it gets really loud and high pitch sounding like its coming from the engine or something. BTW I got both hub assemblys replaced about 2 years ago
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Post by awehlage on Sept 13, 2014 8:54:13 GMT -6
Does the noise subside when you turn the car left or right at highway speeds?
My noise was a constant low pitch hum. It wasn't high pitch like a squealing of a serpentine belt.
What does the steering wheel feel like when you brake? If it wobbles side to side you have warped rotors.
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Post by youngolds23 on Sept 13, 2014 19:42:40 GMT -6
I tried listening today to see if the noise gets louder while I turn left or right and I did not hear a difference.. I guess its not the bearings, maybe something worse lol. oh well.. And the steering wheel does not wobble.. well it wobbles a little around 60 because of bad balanced tires and fades away. but not while braking. My rotors are also good i replaced almost everything down there. outer tie rods, rotors, brakes, boots for the steering column. When I bought it it was in horrible clickity clackity shape 3 years ago. But thanks for the tips and help I appreciate it.
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Post by awehlage on Sept 14, 2014 8:22:48 GMT -6
Check power steering pump. Start the car, leave in park/idle, turn the wheel all the way to right and hold it....any noise? Turn all the way to the left and hold it....any noise?
Also might be a pulley....
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Post by Toronado3800 on Sept 14, 2014 22:26:30 GMT -6
My rear drive MarkVIII has been through two hubs over the last 70k miles. The retainers/locks looked like factory ones so I figure that isn't soo bad. These things just happen. Remember the old cars where if you pulled your brakes off you got a hand full of bearings? I had to change those also.
Then again maybe it is just me now slowing down for highway ramps. My new theory is Geo Metro hubs last the life of the car and others that go in fun to drive cars don't.
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It's best to compare side by side, if possible. The <$50 ones are noticeably thinner and lighter castings with low quality connector for the ABS sensor.
