Hi everyone. So over the winter, one of my tire keeps losing pressure. They were pretty much done, so I bought new tires last week, and the one tire keeps losing air, re-mounted it, swapped in another new one, guy say's it's the chrome rim. Anyone have this problem? Where in the world can I find 1 original rim?
Post by bossdonsin on Mar 10, 2016 18:45:00 GMT -6
clean the rim and/or check the valve. Ive replaced many tires and turns out to be a simple valve. The classic rims get dirty over time. Theres sometimes weird sealants used depending who installs your tires. Otherwise try a balance? that's my input. Good luck.
Post by paulaurora on Mar 17, 2016 13:12:50 GMT -6
common issue they put some sealant i know Firestone does and it stops the leak.
1998GX 168,000 Intrigue-RIP total loss. 1999 Intrigue GLS 215,000 mil-Trade it in for Aurora 2001 Aurora 4.0 2nd owner! miles 22,000~170,700- Sold 2003 Aurora 4.0 3rd Owner! miles 130k 2018 Volvo s90 Inscription 18,000 miles
Post by bossdonsin on Nov 28, 2016 15:11:32 GMT -6
happens when they get 20 years old...lol...I have the outside rim chipped, usually valves...you maybe lucky if its not corroded and rubbing on the valve but you can sand it and see...otherwise steel rims or a different rim
a. Wonder if that's true or b. Stop driving the car immediately
Old school check would be to dunk the tire in water and look for bubbles - lot of shops don't do that anymore. Quick check for rim leaks is a squeeze bottle of water with a couple drops of dish soap mixed in ... any air loss will bubble up. And the "guy who says" should be working in a dedicated tire shop, not the corner garage, eh.
And yes ... I ALWAYS make sure my tires get "glued" to the rims. A good shop will ask. The sealant used doesn't interfere with tire removal and peels easily from the metal next time around but provides and real nice seal. DO avoid using tire sealants like Slime if you live in a cold climate ... that stuff settles and pools overnite, and takes forever to smooth out when you get going again - Aurora's sensitive suspension doesn't like it one bit.
PS ... I'd wonder about the tire squirming or slipping on the rim causing the leak. Factory size shouldn't be an issue, but you never know. And goes without saying, the valve stem should be replaced - standard practice here as well.
I do know that aftermarket are pretty much a crapshoot, but is cracking really an issue on factory wheels?
That said ... these are leaky as heck, and make the truck ride like ... well ... a truck (impossible to balance), but they're so darn purty I put up with it ... ;-}
Then again, I'm into ugly wheels, eh. (let it go ... let it go already!) <G>
PS ... the tire squirm is a real issue if the tires aren't sized properly to the rim. Most have a very narrow range for width, and that works both ways. There, "glue" can help, but not always as there's some serious forces at work when you're bouncing down the boulevard ...
Post by Toronado3800 on Dec 5, 2016 18:23:31 GMT -6
How long does it take to go flat?
If less than once a month, if you can change a tire safely and if you have jack stands, get the wheel off, lay it on its back, take off the valve cap and spray the darned thing with Windex in the cap, at the base of the stem and around the rim then watch for bubbles. Repeat with it laying on its finished side in the grass. No leak? Then stand it up and start spraying the tread.
Then you'll know where it is leaking from.
I dislike fix a flat in automotive tires but use it in buggies and my riding mower.
At one point I could make an old pitted steel wheel hold air decently for a while with a large dremmel type tool and an hour of my life. Not worth it really unless funds are REALLY tight.
97 Aurora Autobahn w/145,000+ miles and a shorty belt bypassing my locked up A/C compressor.