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Post by mkbruin on Jul 9, 2019 17:36:13 GMT -6
The hard line that runs over the rear crossmember from the right side to the left rear wheel is rotted out and leaking.
Does anyone have a diagram or a list of OEM parts numbers for the brake hard lines?
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tigger
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Post by tigger on Jul 9, 2019 21:37:55 GMT -6
Found a decent diagram, all hard lines unavailable, no part numbers listed, sorry! I assume you need #10 in the diagram. Looks like a fairly short run; you could make one yourself (it's not hard to do), or see if a local parts store has an appropriate pre-made one. GL  |
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Post by mkbruin on Jul 10, 2019 5:34:03 GMT -6
Found a decent diagram, all hard lines unavailable, no part numbers listed, sorry! I assume you need #10 in the diagram. Looks like a fairly short run; you could make one yourself (it's not hard to do), or see if a local parts store has an appropriate pre-made one. GL Exactly!!!!! #10 is the winner. Nice find, I tore apart the internet yesterday and couldn't find that |
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Post by mkbruin on Jul 10, 2019 8:33:39 GMT -6
Swung by the dealership this morning, the part number for item #10 is a 20ft roll of 3/16 tube.
No OEM pre-bent part number. Looks like I'm buying pre-flared straight or flaring my own.
For reference, dealer parts diagram confirmed:
Line: 3/16
Fittings: M10 x 1.0
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RCA1186
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Rob
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Post by RCA1186 on Jul 11, 2019 9:38:11 GMT -6
Thanks for coming back and posting that, no doubt will help someone else out. Good luck with the fix!
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Post by Duks on Dec 4, 2021 11:02:55 GMT -6
Found a decent diagram, all hard lines unavailable, no part numbers listed, sorry! I assume you need #10 in the diagram. Looks like a fairly short run; you could make one yourself (it's not hard to do), or see if a local parts store has an appropriate pre-made one. GL Exactly!!!!! #10 is the winner. Nice find, I tore apart the internet yesterday and couldn't find that |
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Paulaurora
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Post by Paulaurora on Dec 4, 2021 20:20:05 GMT -6
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Post by Marc on Dec 4, 2021 20:37:05 GMT -6
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Post by AuroraGirlFromMars on Dec 26, 2021 16:29:31 GMT -6
make sure when replacing the lines between master cylinder and the Bosch 5.3 ABS unit (The EBTCM and the Pump thing for ABS) you do the factory procedures for bleeding and purging air which requires a scan tool to operate the solenoids and valves to purge air, has to be done in a certain order to get it all
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Paulaurora
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Post by Paulaurora on Dec 26, 2021 18:34:06 GMT -6
make sure when replacing the lines between master cylinder and the Bosch 5.3 ABS unit (The EBTCM and the Pump thing for ABS) you do the factory procedures for bleeding and purging air which requires a scan tool to operate the solenoids and valves to purge air, has to be done in a certain order to get it all You don't have to My mechanic did it by bleeding the brakes regular way took a little longer but worked perfectly no scan tool was used. Scan tool just to save time i guess. |
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Post by AuroraGirlFromMars on Dec 26, 2021 19:02:49 GMT -6
make sure when replacing the lines between master cylinder and the Bosch 5.3 ABS unit (The EBTCM and the Pump thing for ABS) you do the factory procedures for bleeding and purging air which requires a scan tool to operate the solenoids and valves to purge air, has to be done in a certain order to get it all You don't have to My mechanic did it by bleeding the brakes regular way took a little longer but worked perfectly no scan tool was used. Scan tool just to save time i guess. Unless you methodically change them out in such a way to not introduce air upstream to the ABS modulator, , which is possible, you would have to cycle the solenoids in order to bleed them. they arent normally accessible unless you are actuating ABS |
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Paulaurora
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Post by Paulaurora on Dec 27, 2021 10:26:00 GMT -6
You don't have to My mechanic did it by bleeding the brakes regular way took a little longer but worked perfectly no scan tool was used. Scan tool just to save time i guess. Unless you methodically change them out in such a way to not introduce air upstream to the ABS modulator, , which is possible, you would have to cycle the solenoids in order to bleed them. they arent normally accessible unless you are actuating ABS Possible i wasn't watching what my Mechanic did but i know he did everything right since its family friend and he is mechanic since 1989 and does his job well.  |
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RCA1186
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Rob
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Post by RCA1186 on Mar 18, 2022 7:25:06 GMT -6
You don't have to My mechanic did it by bleeding the brakes regular way took a little longer but worked perfectly no scan tool was used. Scan tool just to save time i guess. Unless you methodically change them out in such a way to not introduce air upstream to the ABS modulator, , which is possible, you would have to cycle the solenoids in order to bleed them. they arent normally accessible unless you are actuating ABS This is correct. You can bleed the traditional way but you wont get the air out of the ABS module without a scan tool (or braking hard on a gravely road haha) I just popped a line myself yesterday so I'll need to be doing this as well. |
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