Electrical issues 2003 with 112,000 miles

[kbpickle]

Hi folks,

My 2003 developed these issues after a visit to a Jiffy-Lube type shop for a state inspection. I'm hoping the symptoms point to an easy fix. Please advise if you understand what my problem is, or probably is.

Symptoms
1) Driver window is down, and won't come up. There's no sound indicating that the window motor is trying - more like it's not getting power.
2) Other three windows are up, and won't come down from the driver door master switches. The three windows won't come down at their respective door switches, either.
3) OSRVM switch does not move the two mirrors.
4) Driver side master door lock switch is inoperative. (Key fob will operate door locks however.) Also however, passenger side master door locks switch does work.
5) Trunk lid release and gas filler door buttons inoperative.
6) Memory settings for drivers chair inoperative. But, chair switches work when activated manually.
7) Other interior electrical functions seem ok: a) cabin lights ok, b) radio/AC functions ok, c) even backlit buttons on the driver door panel remain backlit, d) car starts, headlights & taillamps ok, signal lamps ok.


I'm guessing the problem is localized in the driver door control panel, but does anyone know exactly what's wrong, or how to fix it?

Thanks,

Ken

[Paulaurora]

Possible a blown fuse or the wires inside the door or under the seat got messed up. I would check the fuse since the main switch controls most of those things you said. P.S i am planning to move from NJ and one of the States of my choice is NC. How is in Raleigh North Carolina? I would go back to the jiffy lube place and let them deal with it since if its a wire issue or the fuse it wont just blow for no reason:).

[phewop118]

Your RIM (rear integration module) is likely not powered or functional for some reason. All of those items are controlled via it. Check your rear module fuse in your underseat fuse box. Also check the ignition fuses there.

If all of the fuses are good, try removing the harness connectors from the RIM, wait a few minutes and reinstall. The RIM is located between the back seat back and the trunk divider panel. You could also probably accomplish the same thing by unhooking the battery overnight.

If it still isn't good, it could be a data link wiring problem or faulty module. Check with a scan too for a U code (module not communicating).

Mine white one had the same issues a few months ago. Must have been a low battery voltage condition causing the RIM to lockup. Unhooking it and reconnecting it resolved my issues.

[phewop118]

One more thing you can do to verify that it indeed is the RIM without a scan tool is to see if your rear fog lights come on or if the reverse lights work (with someone else looking). If those aren't working I'd almost guarantee the RIM is your issue.

[tigger]

Oct 23, 2020 0:35:37 GMT -6 phewop118 said:

Your RIM (rear integration module) is likely not powered or functional for some reason. All of those items are controlled via it.

Only the trunk and fuel door release circuits (of his symptoms) go through the RIM.

Power window, power lock, side mirror, memory seat, trunk release, and fuel door release circuits all run through the Driver's Door Switch Assembly. I'll have to agree with Paul...


Ken, the switch gets power from the Driver's Door Module. You'll have to check that as well.

[phewop118]

Yes, the circuit for all those items don't go through the RIM, but they require permission from it on the data bus. The rear fogs and reverse lights will differentiate if it's in ddm or rim

[phewop118]

Missed the part the the key fob does work. Since that's the case, I agree with you. Either ddm or switch assembly.

[kbpickle]

Thanks folks,

I'm starting today (Saturday) to troubleshoot.

Further on symptoms: I confirmed yesterday that the rear fogs and the backup lights are operating correctly.

Ken

[kbpickle]

Update: Partial success


Thanks all for the helpful comments. I had some success over the weekend, but there are still some problems remaining. Here's what I did:

1) I checked the 10A mini-fuse for the Driver Door Module (Fuse #7 in the rear fuse block). It looked good. I replaced it anyway: but no change, still missing all the functions noted in my original post. I also checked several other mini-fuses associated with the non-responsive switches, as well as the RIM fuses. They all looked good to my eye.

2) I disconnected the battery overnight and reconnected this morning. No change: still missing the listed functions.

3) I observed the connector on the driver's door switch assembly. It looked and felt solid. No change from disconnecting and reconnecting it.

4) I removed the driver's door switch assembly and installed one from a junk yard Aurora that I scavenged about two years ago: SOME FUNCTIONS RETURNED, BUT NOT ALL.

5) Here's what came back: Driver's window now fully functional; front passenger window too; right rear window too; OSRVM functions; memory seat functions; trunk lid release.

6) Here's what did not come back: Left rear window; gas filler door release (although, once it popped open as I opened the drivers door); driver door master door lock - - it will lock all the doors, but it won't unlock any. However, the key fob still functions fine both ways on the door locks.


So, is my replacement Driver Door Switch Assembly faulty? Are there still more underlying faulty parts? Do I need to consider the Driver Door Module? I'd appreciate any further analysis or recommendations.

Thanks,

Ken

[kbpickle]

Hi folks,


OK, this morning's work has identified the faulty part, I think. My problem is a defective Driver Door Switch Assembly. I'm looking to buy one from a member here, if you know it's fully functional. Please PM me if you have one to sell. Until then I can limp along with the partially restored functions from my junk yard DDSA.

For those of you interested in the short history of my troubleshooting process (in case you ever have this problem), here it is from the beginning:

a) After a mandatory safety and emissions inspection at a Jiffy-Lube type shop all functions commanded from the driver's door were dead. Before the visit all functions on the door were ok. Q: Did Jiffy-Lube do it? Or did the DDSA just pick that time to go out? Cannot say with certainty, of course.

b) My first steps in this case: Ask the Aurora Club of North America. And follow the general principle of check the easy stuff first. Meaning check fuses and connections. Followed by disconnecting and hoping for a reset when reconnected.

c) ACNA members provided a background education on the possible problems. So, first easy step: I checked fuses and they were all ok. => Fuses not the problem.

d) I disconnected the battery overnight, but no improvement the next day. => Simple reset was not the solution.

e) It was easier to get to the DDSA than either the DDM or RIM, so I checked the connection to the DDSA. It was solid and appeared good. => DDSA connection not the problem.

f) Still easier/quicker to continue working with the DDSA, so I replaced the original with one I had scavenged from a junk yard Aurora. Some functions returned, but not all. Very encouraging. But still leaving the question of whether the junk yard DDSA was partially defective, or was fully ok but there were additional problems in other hardware or wiring.

g) In addition to the 2003 4.0L I also have a 2001 3.5L. Still keeping the DDSA as the focus of this troubleshooting exercise I switched the fully functional 2001 DDSA into the 2003, and switched the junkyard DDSA into the 2001. Gratifying test results: Now the 2003 became completely functional. And the 2001 exhibited the same partial loss of functions previously observed in the 2003. => It's the DDSA! I'm pretty happy that I avoided having to check out the RIM or DDM or relays on the fuse block or (shudder) bad wiring. I'm rarely this lucky with the cars.

So, now I have three DDSAs: the fully functional 2001, back in the car; the partially functional junk yard DDSA installed in the 2003; and a completely fried 2003 DDSA, which is essentially junk. And I'm looking to buy another one from a member here. If no one comes forward with a spare, I'll try to find one in a junkyard. Perhaps as a last resort I'll see if there might be a new one available....somewhere?

I wrote this up not just to take up space, but hoping that any other member with similar problems (see my first post above) could jump right to the solution.

Thanks to paul, phewop, and tigger.

Ken

[tigger]

Good to hear and thanks for getting back with your outcome, it means a lot.

That partially functioning switch assembly probably just needs a little cleaning...

[phewop118]

Glad you figured it out! As Tigger mentioned, the old DDSA might just need some cleaning. Try some contact cleaner (like Deoxit) on the connector contacts. Fretting and corrosion are pretty common in low-current contacts that aren't gold. You may also want to look at any solder joints for cracking.

[kbpickle]

Thanks guys,

So, if I try to clean the switch, does that mean I just spray contact cleaner on the 10-pin connector? Or do I have to open up the switch assembly to get at the innards with a toothbrush?

Ken

[Paulaurora]

Hmm i never saw them fail strange maybe was a short somewhere. But good that is an easy fix.

[phewop118]

I would suggest the contact cleaner on the contacts in the connector. If that doesn't resolve anything try looking inside. I've not looked at the DDSA, but I assume it has a pcb in it. Check for loose or damage connections to the board, cracks in the board, or solder joints on the board that may be cracked. Also look for any burnt components.

[phewop118]

It looks like the DDSA has seperate connections to the memory switch, lock switch, etc. Clean those too. Also, inside it has pull up resistors for each switch (with the unit disconnected you could measure the resistance between the B+ contact in the housing-end of the connector and the individual switch contacts in the housing end of the connector for the auxiliary switches). It's possible that the auxiliary ones are on a seperate board. Check any internal connections between boards for loose connections or corrosion too.

[kbpickle]

Final update, I hope.

Hi folks,

Yesterday getting ready to dive back into the partially functioning Driver Door Switch Assembly I found another junk yard switch in my garage. It didn't look promising: the veneer was sun-bleached, cracked, and peeling away from the substrate. The whole assembly looked like it had been abused. It was filthy, too. But, it's the electronics that matter, right? Upon installing that switch into a good piece of veneer everything worked as it should. So now my 2003 is fully functional again, thanks to a awful looking junk yard find. Now the 2001 is running with a DDSA with over 212,000 miles on it, and the 2003 is running with a junk yard find dressed up in a nice piece of veneer. A great result, and fun to do, since the outcome was as desired.

Thanks again to the members that helped me work my way through the troubleshooting, and thanks to my wife who went to visit the grandkids for a month two years ago. That's when I decided to make my first ever trips to salvage yards to see what I could find. Lots of fun both then, and now.

Ken