|
Post by Ricky on May 7, 2004 5:08:18 GMT -6
This is a topic that seems to have a lot of Aurora users interested BUT finding the cause is a mystery. My situation is that after the car is up to temperature and I full stop, it stalls. If I shift out of Drive or let up on the brakes just a little before the stall is complete, it recovers. I thought it was the Idle Air Control Valve (IAC) because when I disconnected it the problem appeared to go away. I bought a new one and the problem was still there. I had the car at Oldsmobile 4 times at lots of $$. They changed the computer and still stalls. They said everything seemed OK and they threw up their hands and gave up. Also took it to 3 shops and they too have no clue! Right now I am operating with the IAC valve disconnected and no stalls! I had to adjust the valve so during initial start up the car would run proper. Anyone else have this problem? I know there are a few I've chatted with over the past year. Otheres have other stalling problems, like when up to speed.
|
|
|
Post by Amanda on May 7, 2004 7:55:13 GMT -6
I have a stalling problem as well but i believe mine is related to a loose wire in the steering column. everytime I move the wheel down it stalls or if I hit the horn to hard *hey it happens )* then the car stalls... It's just a matter of pulling it apart and hopefully it won't be a complicated fix...
|
|
|
Post by Ricky on May 7, 2004 10:09:07 GMT -6
Amanda. The site you reference "Automotive Forum" has details on your stalling problem. It expalins the problem and how to fix.
|
|
|
Post by JimW on May 7, 2004 14:21:55 GMT -6
Automotive Forums Aurora section can still continue to be an excellent resource for information, but we should try to get a lot of it over here as well Good luck with the repairs Ricky
|
|
|
Post by 97 silverbullet on May 16, 2004 8:13:47 GMT -6
I think I've solved the stalling problem in the auroras, there is two things that could be happening, one your egr is bad and is sending a engine stall code to your car, or two your intake manifold is bad, there is a seal on the other side opposite of the throttle body, its a valve up some sort well there is a seal around that valve and it goes bad, and then causes a vacume leak which stalls out your car frequently.
|
|
|
Post by JimW on May 16, 2004 20:49:06 GMT -6
There is also something I read about bad fuel lines up near the rail. Could be that, as well as a fuel filter that needs replacing.
Your suggestion sounds quite plausible Bullet, were you experiencing the same problem?
|
|
|
Post by Ricky on May 17, 2004 5:13:16 GMT -6
Silver Bullet........I wish it were either of those but it is not....GM checked EGR valve and is good. I would expect to see a Service Engine Soon light and a code stored if the EGR valve was the culprit. As far as vacuum, the car pulls a hard vacuum. No leaks could be found.
|
|
|
Post by JimW on May 17, 2004 7:05:57 GMT -6
Have you checked the FPR? (Fuel pressure regulator) not having adaquate fuel pressure sent to the injectors will cause stalling right? And since they are notorious for failure, it might be that... Just another angle for ya
|
|
|
Post by Ricky on May 17, 2004 8:44:48 GMT -6
JimW....thanks for the suggestion...GM says that they checked fuel flow and everything was normal. When she stalls, all that is recorded in the computer is that there was a "stall". It's a screwy problem...If I let up on the brakes just prior to stalling she will recover. I checked for vacuum at the brake booster and all was OK.
|
|
|
Post by Amanda on May 21, 2004 11:35:30 GMT -6
As far as my stalling problem goes I would bet everything I own that it's a bad wire in my steering wheel column, which is a tedious job to track down the correct wire
Although something that will have to be done at some point....
|
|
|
Post by GlennS87 on May 21, 2004 17:20:51 GMT -6
I had this problem when my crank triggers went out on two occasions. I didn't get a check engine light until it got very bad, but there was a tendency for it stall untill both triggers were replaced.
|
|
|
Post by Ricky on May 24, 2004 5:01:11 GMT -6
Glenn....where are these crank triggers and are they accessible without tranny dropping? Now that I've disconnected my Idle Air Control Valve everything works fine so I would say is it not the triggers. Funny though, when I replaced the Idle Valve, the problem was still there.
|
|
|
Post by sidney on May 24, 2004 7:32:51 GMT -6
Rick, Has anyone checked the crankshaft position sensors or the mass air flow sensor. Both of these unit could be causing the engine to stall. If you need any further information please let me know? Sidney
|
|
|
Post by JimW on May 24, 2004 9:35:14 GMT -6
If that was the case wouldnt he have an SES light on the money bar?? Or did I not catch that?
|
|
|
Post by GlennS87 on May 29, 2004 16:35:27 GMT -6
Rick, My mechanic did the repair so I'm not positive but I believe they are near the harmonic balancer. At least that's where i have seen some aftermarket crank triggers get positioned.
|
|
|
Post by Aurora40 on May 31, 2004 13:28:30 GMT -6
Have you checked the FPR? (Fuel pressure regulator) not having adaquate fuel pressure sent to the injectors will cause stalling right? And since they are notorious for failure, it might be that... Just another angle for ya I second that. Classics have almost guaranteed FPR problems, and the eventually leak fuel out, causing a very dangerous condition. So replacing it is good PM anyway. Checking flow might not reveal the issue, since obviously the issue doesn't happen all the time, or your car would stall all the time.
|
|
|
Post by tedhontz on Jul 30, 2004 22:44:44 GMT -6
My car has stalled ONCE (so far). It was on the way home from PURCHASING the vehicle! I was driving in a straight line doing about 55-65 mph. I just died with no warning, lost steering and all. Pulled over, put into park, and started right up. No stalling problems since, BUT, i do notice, that when i get up to about 55mph, the car shakes, surges, hard to explain but not a suspension problem, i think. It seems more like an engine surge or something, maybe tranny slip, although tranny shifts good, knock on wood. Check engine light comes on, code readout at autozone says that the right oxygen sensor bank one is indication exhaust LEAN reading. So i need to replace that. Could an oxygen sensor cause car to surge, jerk, a bit around 55mph? Also, how much does a FPR cost? How hard are they to install?
|
|
|
Post by JimW on Jul 31, 2004 0:59:20 GMT -6
Well, it could be plugs (yer at 149K) they could be original (granted the previous owner was ignorant) but that stalling is FPR related. Its an easy change. Get either AC Delco or Borg Warner fuel pressure regulators
|
|
|
Post by tedhontz on Jul 31, 2004 10:29:54 GMT -6
THanks JIm. Again! I did change the FRONT 4 plugs so far, back ones im waiting for a second pair of hands and another brain from my father-in-law. But yes, i will get borg warner or AC Delco FPR. Do you know the price for one?
|
|
|
Post by erw38 on Jul 31, 2004 19:52:15 GMT -6
about $45 for the borg-warner and 50-55 for the ac delco
|
|
|
Post by tedhontz on Jul 31, 2004 20:11:06 GMT -6
i found the FPR and just to anxious, i removed the silver clip and pulled it right off. The blue o-ring came off with the FPR so it was easy removal. BUT, NOBODY in Fort Wayne, Indiana had this part in stock. Prices ranged from $82 - $140 for the same thing! I called AUtozone, Advance, Napa, and Hires. Amazingly hires had it cheapest. So, here i was, stuck with no FPR. SO, I put the old one back on. Went to start it, got it to start and went to see the engine while it was running. It was shoot FUEL, major amounts, 3 FEET into the air ALL OVER the engine while it was running. I shut it off before it blew up into a fireball. I tried to reseat again and while i was cranking the key, i noticed it spraying again. Something im doing wrong while putting it back on. Im either not getting it aligned? Or im not putting the silver clip back on? Or something.
|
|
|
Post by JimW on Jul 31, 2004 20:21:47 GMT -6
Where is the fuel shooting from??! The regulator or from the shreader valve? Remember thats 50 psi of fuel shooting from there.
|
|
|
Post by erw38 on Jul 31, 2004 21:55:47 GMT -6
check the black o-ring at the very bottom of where the FPR sits. It may be har to find as mine was because it was covered in a pool of gas. Make sure that o-ring is positioned correctly over the bottom of the FPR or else fuel will shoot out. Alse make sure the compression fitting is on tight. I think I may still have my old one and if you need a picture let me know and I will get one tomorrow. 812 posts? Jim are you hogging the computer again? here's a pick of what the FPR should look like when fully assembled. remember the small black o-ring........it likes to hide at the very bottom of where the FPR sits. stich so needle nose pliers down in there until you find it or else it will shoot gass all over! img.photobucket.com/albums/v299/erw38/IMG_1072.jpgsorry for the bad resolution..........its the best my camera would do. hope it helps
|
|
|
Post by JimW on Jul 31, 2004 22:51:48 GMT -6
That could be an amazingly informative pic if it was clearer Elan...maybe set your camera to Marco mode, (has a lil flower symbol) that will help. Back on topic now
|
|
|
Post by Isnibs on Jul 31, 2004 22:55:25 GMT -6
As you install the FPR twist it to properly seat the small 'o' ring
you dont need to start the engine to test the seal, cover the FPR with a rag. Turn on the ignition for a few seconds then off for about ten seconds then on again. At this point the fuel pump will build up pressure.
|
|
|
Post by tedhontz on Aug 1, 2004 12:00:05 GMT -6
ok, my true colors are about to shine and show that im still used to mustangs and im new at auroras. im smart at some things and really stupid at others, like this FPR thing. Ok, when i pulled up and off the FPR, i looked down into the hole the holds the FPR. It has a little orange colored rusty looking screen/filter/sponge down there. I left that alone. Haven't checked for a black o-ring. I thought there was just a blue o-ring. And thanks for telling me that i dont have to turn on the engine to see if fuel is spraying. Im leaving it alone till the new one comes in. I just have a ziploc bag sitting on the hole right now. Thanks everybody, especially erw38, for all the help you've given me. I try to post help and suggestions for everything i know that i can help out on, but there is still alot i have to learn, which is why i want to get this manual thing straightened out so i can order a set. THen, ill be able to hopefully become a more pro, and help more people out with even more posts! Thanks again everyone!
|
|
|
Post by erw38 on Aug 1, 2004 16:22:38 GMT -6
ok...I am trying again here is a clearer (I hope) picture of the FPR. Good Luck Ted! If you have any question don't hesitate to ask! Elan
|
|
|
Post by tedhontz on Aug 1, 2004 20:32:14 GMT -6
wow, what a pic! Yes, its missing that little black o-ring. it has the blug o-ring and the bigger black plastic ring which is what i thought everyone was called the o-ring. also the orange screen in not on the FPR, its in the bottom of the hole where the FPR goes into. SO, im just gonna wait till i get my new one, hopefully tomorrow, use your pic, and hopefully not kill myself or my car ;D.
|
|
|
Post by erw38 on Aug 1, 2004 20:36:26 GMT -6
Good luck with it and keep us posted ;D
also make sure you put the plastic screen on the FPR just like the picture......... ;D
|
|
|
Post by omegaic on Aug 2, 2004 21:06:59 GMT -6
Great picture, now I know what to do if my FPR ever goes!
|
|