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Post by TJM on Mar 14, 2006 15:09:49 GMT -6
After all I've read I did some investigating last night with my meter.
From the chassis to the coil pack plate the meter read .45
DIC voltage previously varied from 14.8 while driving to 12.3 at idle with the lights on.
OK; ran over to AutoZone and picked up a 24" ground wire, removed the nut and bolt from the strut mount stud and the closest coil pack bolt, scraped off the paint, applied dielectric grease and installed the cable.
I can't believe the difference. Now 14.8 driving and 14 at idle with lights and rear def on. No more dimming lights and throttle and tranny performance is noticeably more crisp and more receptive to my right foot's input.
The original ground wire above the alternator looks like it still has a good connection and is tight. But the copper at the connector has a vivid green patina.
It did take a short while for the PCM to become accustomed to the new voltage stability but my $8 and 20 minutes was certainly well spent.
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scottydl
Super Moderator
There's nothin' like an American V-8...
Posts: 7,373
Staff Member
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Post by scottydl on Mar 14, 2006 15:40:27 GMT -6
TJM, is this in addition to the Custom Grounding Kit mod that many of us have installed? Or have you not added those other ground links? Just curious if adding another ground as you have described would improve upon the kit I already have in place.
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Post by BuccaneersFan on Mar 14, 2006 15:43:02 GMT -6
I've been meaning to do this for a long time. Got a pic?
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Post by TJM on Mar 14, 2006 15:47:46 GMT -6
This is my first added ground. I will try to post a pic tonight.
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Post by Wacko on Mar 14, 2006 16:14:04 GMT -6
That's just plain cool. I love it when a plan comes together. I'm kinda hoping the 2nd gen suffers from the same thing. I'd love to increase it's responsiveness. I don't have any problems with voltage drops but it does seem slow to respond to input.
Kudos to you, tjm.
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Post by JimW on Mar 14, 2006 17:05:44 GMT -6
I was almost carted off to the loony bin for proclaiming that when I installed my grounding kit. Findings were verified later, looks like you've joined that crowd!
To others that are skeptical, this is not a "mod" it simply restores electrical flow through the engine, comprimised by age.
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Post by TJM on Mar 15, 2006 7:44:15 GMT -6
Jim - I understand, but it was your post on Howard's site that prompted me to take a closer look. The difference borders profound.
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Post by TheLoveThatNeverDies on Mar 15, 2006 8:10:43 GMT -6
That's awesome, TJM I've been meaning to get around to doing the grounding-kit as well, but I've been pretty lazy. I guess I know what I'll be doing this weekend -Shawn
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Post by Wacko on Mar 15, 2006 9:17:51 GMT -6
I was almost carted off to the loony bin for proclaiming that when I installed my grounding kit. Findings were verified later, looks like you've joined that crowd! To others that are skeptical, this is not a "mod" it simply restores electrical flow through the engine, comprimised by age. As an EE, I would agree that it doesn't hurt and in many circumstances it most definitely would help. Whenever there is a mating of dissimilar metals, copper, steel, aluminum, there is a greater chance for a reaction that leads to electrical resistance. Where there is resistance there is a voltage drop and heat. A sufficient number of these voltage drops can add up. The dielectric grease is a good preventative measure. Twelve-volt systems for automobiles is not ideal because the power demands then require high current (at that voltage.) High current is not good for many reasons. There is a push in the automotive industry to go to higher voltage systems like 24V if I recall. But this change is meeting resistance (no pun intended) from the status quo. TJM, was that .45 a voltage or resistance measurement? Were you running accessories and lights at that measurement?
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Post by TJM on Mar 15, 2006 9:54:21 GMT -6
TJM, was that .45 a voltage or resistance measurement? Were you running accessories and lights at that measurement? resistance - all off, not running. Technically it should have been "0" I didn't thing to check voltage but if the resistance was greater than 0 then I bet there would have been a voltage reading as well; where circuits would have been looking to find a better path to ground.
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Post by SupaStealth on Mar 15, 2006 12:08:07 GMT -6
Twelve-volt systems for automobiles is not ideal because the power demands then require high current (at that voltage.) High current is not good for many reasons. There is a push in the automotive industry to go to higher voltage systems like 24V if I recall. i believe its 36V/42 V (36 battery, 42 generator output) www.findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m3012/is_n8_v178/ai_21075825
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NYsteve
Aurora Driver
Go Red Foxes!!
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Post by NYsteve on Mar 15, 2006 12:16:17 GMT -6
I just read the other thread from a while ago, and you've got me hooked. For $20 and all these improvements how can you go wrong? And its almost impossible to screw up. I'll definitely be making a trip to Home Depot soon.
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Post by Wacko on Mar 16, 2006 9:22:13 GMT -6
With the car running, take a DC voltmeter and place the contacts between two points of the car that are KNOWN ground points. If you see something other than zero volts, then you've got a high resistance connection somewhere that is allowing a potential to build up between those points (a floating ground).
You can either hunt for the poor connection or provide an alternative path for ground. Now if your bad connections are at the battery or alternator (source) you have no choice but to clean those positive connections.
TJM, in your case, the difference under load was 1.7 volts. The static resistance was 0.45 ohms. That means you could see as much as 3.78 amps of current that was previously 'lost' to a poor connection somewhere (with lights and accessories going). Among other benefits, your alternator no longer needs to generate this 6.5 watts of heat, basically.
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Post by kobalt on Mar 16, 2006 9:44:08 GMT -6
Amazing what a difference a piece of wire can make. Had I owned a Classic, I would perform this modification right away.
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Post by erw38 on Mar 16, 2006 13:50:27 GMT -6
Is this just a bad pic or is it a big glob of dialectic grease? Whats the bid thing about dialectic grease?
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Post by Wacko on Mar 16, 2006 14:35:54 GMT -6
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Post by TJM on Mar 16, 2006 15:02:12 GMT -6
Is this just a bad pic or is it a big glob of dialectic grease? Whats the bid thing about dialectic grease? LOL - a little bit of both. The dielectric grease will keep out the moisture as well as inhibit electrolosis. Here is a good read on the subject: www.glenair.com/qwikconnect/vol7num4/coverstory.htm
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Post by erw38 on Mar 17, 2006 13:56:20 GMT -6
So, today I added the cable. I didn't ave any greese so I will add some later. I believe I can tell a difference with the responce of the tranny when I hit the gas. I just drove around the block, but I am going to be driving to school later so I will report back later.
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Post by erw38 on Mar 18, 2006 1:09:21 GMT -6
Transmission seems more responsive from take off and at WOT. Lights may be a tab bit brighter, but it is hard to tell if they actually are. It seems to start easier too, like it catches faster after turning the key. Overall I like it. Definately a good improvement for 5 bucks.
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Post by Letitroll98 on Mar 18, 2006 4:35:18 GMT -6
So, today I added the cable. I didn't ave any greese so I will add some later. I believe I can tell a difference with the responce of the tranny when I hit the gas. I just drove around the block, but I am going to be driving to school later so I will report back later. Now here's what's absolutely hilarious about this. I quote a post from the original thread by someone near and dear to us: erw38 Administrator « Reply #13 on Jan 5, 2005, 12:47pm » "I think I should get some of the credit for this. After all, I brought it to Jim's attention but I have just been to lazy to do it."............... "And no I have not done it yet." He He, It's a good thing you got right on that one Elan, no time like the present. I do completely understand this though. I've been meaning to join the procrastinators club, but I haven't gotten around to it yet. ;D Anyway, I'm glad it has been successful for you, enjoy.
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Post by erw38 on Mar 18, 2006 11:54:31 GMT -6
Do you just dig things up to show just how lazy I am? It only took me 15 months to get around to it! Thanks Dan.
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kreiderkid
Aurora Watcher
It's more than just an obsession
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Post by kreiderkid on Aug 8, 2009 18:49:16 GMT -6
i just added a ground wire this morning and two error codes went away! that and, i don't have to push the pedal half way down to accelerate...
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Post by sall on Aug 8, 2009 19:49:11 GMT -6
Add two more! ;D
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Post by cbburtraw on Aug 8, 2009 21:08:53 GMT -6
If it was that bad I would consider taking off the old ones and cleaning them up/tightening them down or replacing them. THen, add two more
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Post by Deleted on Aug 13, 2009 6:34:36 GMT -6
I went ahead and did this yesterday, I thought I was losing my alternator, after adding the ground cable no dimming lights, no voltage drops, and I must agree throttle response is up. Oh and I gained ATLEAST 60 HP ;D
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Post by sall on Aug 13, 2009 8:22:10 GMT -6
What gauge wire did you use, Zach?
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Post by Deleted on Aug 14, 2009 15:27:29 GMT -6
What gauge wire did you use, Zach? ummm not quite sure, but it was just your run of the mill battery ground.
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Post by bigpoppa06 on Aug 15, 2009 1:23:34 GMT -6
ok guys you peaked my intrest i think my classic could benefit from this mod also. my thing is what gauge wire do i need would a regular battery ground work. and length of wire i would need and most important does anyone have a pic and where would i need to attach the new ground explain please thanks.
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Post by asimmons136 on Aug 17, 2009 10:19:18 GMT -6
All i did was go to advance auto parts, picked up (I think it was an 18") battery ground cable with two ends (that you through through a bolt) on it. I then hooked one end to the ignition module bolt (the piece that holds the coils) and the other end to the fender well where the struts attach.
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Post by sall on Aug 17, 2009 10:59:53 GMT -6
Yeah I had plenty of left over 4 gauge wire from my stereo install. I just picked up some copper lugs and soldered them on and heat shrunk them. One of the best "mods" I have done. It has been about 6 months and still doing there job. I follwed the other write-up however and have three extra grounding cables.
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