Paulaurora
Super Moderator
Posts: 3,828
Staff Member
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Post by Paulaurora on Dec 21, 2012 13:21:52 GMT -6
if fuse keeps blowing the pump is bad or the plug to the pump.
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rcarlisle
Aurora Watcher
2001 3.5l 138K miles 5/2013
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Post by rcarlisle on Dec 26, 2012 13:24:40 GMT -6
I studied the process and checked the diverter valves first - easiest to get to at the moment. The drivers side will not hold vacuum, but pass side will with car turned off and just sucking on them as described. Car was warmed up a bit before checking.
SO that would rule out the solenoid or pump, correct? Just trying to make sure before I plunk down $150 for a new valve. I'm hoping the dealer I bought the car from can find a better price or help me out on it a little - haven't had car but 3 weeks when light came on. And I know it's not their fault, but dlr has always been a good guy for me.
Thanks Randy
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Paulaurora
Super Moderator
Posts: 3,828
Staff Member
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Post by Paulaurora on Dec 26, 2012 18:39:20 GMT -6
i can say that 99% at time its the pump esp if you have water inside of it. 5 auroras i know 4 in family and 1 on my friend always was a pump esp when fuse keep blowing.
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rcarlisle
Aurora Watcher
2001 3.5l 138K miles 5/2013
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Post by rcarlisle on Dec 27, 2012 9:12:37 GMT -6
Dealer can't get any better price on valve than I can. In fact, one guy quoted him HIGHER than they did me. Since it isn't a critical error, I think I'll study it further, check pump to be sure, before ordering parts that might no be the problem.
Randy
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Post by aurora2001tan on Jan 20, 2013 14:38:10 GMT -6
I have Exh air coming back into left side now and pushing air out small suction hose nipple. Also air is going back to pump and out pump air intake. Suspecting a plugged cat. 245k miles on cat. Loss of power from fast accel from stop.
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Post by dietz4ibanez on Jul 31, 2013 8:39:28 GMT -6
No sense in making another thread about this system. I was wondering if someone could help me out. When I was working on my car I removes the solenoid bracket out of the way. If you look in the photo of the OP, you can see two small hoses with boot connections. One facing the front of the car and the other facing driver side. They came unconnected and I wasn't paying attention.
I need to confirm the coloring of the wires if it even matters. The one facing front of vehicle is yellow and the other facing driver side is black.
Can anyone confirm this?
Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using proboards
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Paulaurora
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Post by Paulaurora on Aug 4, 2013 12:21:42 GMT -6
does it makes a difference witch end goes to the sensor or no? like if the driver side has to go to the left of the sensor or pas side goes to the left of the sensor?
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irectus
Aurora Driver
To each his own - for us, an Aurora.
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Post by irectus on Oct 24, 2013 17:06:00 GMT -6
Need a little clarification on this P0410 guide/Faq/Tutorial.
I went to go troubleshoot my P0410 fault some more today, after breaking the hard plastic vacuum line in between the pass/driver valves yesterday and quickly getting cold feet and stopping. Anyway, i'm just not sure when i'm supposed to be checking the solenoid/vacuum tubes and pass/driver side valves.... is the car engine supposed to be on and at driving temp? or is it supposed to be a cold startup?... or is the engine supposed to be off and just test as soon as i turn the engine off/let it cool down to cold?
So I figured I didn't want to waste my time and decided to start the car up and let it warm up to driving temp (it was already half way to driving temp according to the temp gauge).
1)My driver's side control valve seems to hold vacuum.... i'm weary because after sucking on the tube, the vacuum seemed to go away after like 5-10 seconds... but its definitely a strong suction for the first 5 seconds r so. the passenger side control valve doesn't seem to hold vacuum at all... (BTW, the car wasn't running, but was hot when i tested these valves for vacuum). 2)the vacuum solenoid has power going to it (14.something volts) 3)there is vacuum on the vacuum diverter line going to the manifold (the elbow at the solenoid that points towards the driver's side of the car). Engine was running and hot for this test. 4)there is no vacuum on the vacuum diverter line going to the passenger and driver control valves (the elbow that points towards the front of the car). Engine was running and hot for this test. 5)the solenoid doesn't click (open) when i try to power it with a 9v battery. car was off for this test.
So, does this mean that at least 1, if not 2 of my control valves need to be replaced, my vacuum solenoid needs to be replaced, and possibly my pump? (pump sounds like it spins up, but supposedly that doesn't mean its not defective)
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Paulaurora
Super Moderator
Posts: 3,828
Staff Member
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Post by Paulaurora on Oct 24, 2013 17:43:55 GMT -6
Make sure that the tubes fit secure on the solenoid. On my moms 3.5 2002 one side was lose and she got the code. and check all other tubes. All i know by check my car the line that goes from pass side for me and my moms aurora holds vacuum and other one doesn't when the car is hot. But the both check valves should hold vacuum.If u hear the pump work for first 30 seconds for sure then its not the pump.
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irectus
Aurora Driver
To each his own - for us, an Aurora.
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Post by irectus on Oct 24, 2013 19:38:51 GMT -6
OK.. so what I need to know:
1) the passenger and driver side valves should hold a vacuum when the car is hot or cold? (Engine off) 2) the 2 vacuum diverter tubes attached to the solenoid should have a vacuum when the car is hot or cold? (Running) 3) should the solenoid click when you attach a 9v battery? (Engine off)
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