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Post by roara on Mar 7, 2011 2:16:59 GMT -6
Not to be technical here, but this is for the 2G. But it's cool to see some of the original guys! A-40, Wacko, tahoesport etc...
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Post by adfdsfdwefsfd on Mar 7, 2011 2:18:25 GMT -6
Do I have to remove something before accessing the radiator drain plug? Maybe jack up the car?
And there's on a reservoir cap, no "radiator cap"?
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Post by roara on Mar 7, 2011 2:26:34 GMT -6
You should be able to see the "petcock" drain plug underneath on one side of the radiator. Not sure which side right now. You might want to get the car up a little to make it easier to work under. Support it with jackstands, don't get under it with just the jack!
Yes, you only have the expansion/surge tank cap, rated for 15 PSI, oem that is. Some guys have put diff PSI rated caps on. Stick with oem for now.
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Post by adfdsfdwefsfd on Mar 7, 2011 16:23:59 GMT -6
If you have done this on dozens of cars, as some of us have, you would know what you've stated is completely silly! Obviously, if you have ever flushed a cooling system, you would know that you can completely flush the old out, completely flush out the radiator cleaner, and refill with new coolant. That's why Prestone makes the kit, so you can do the job right and complete. That's also why you also flush a transmission as well as the radiator. You're not following the directions of GM or Prestone in doing a partial job as you are advocating here. The GM Service Manual does not call for just draining out a gallon of coolant. The owners manual might, but not the service manual. This is one of the most basic of all car maintenance procedures Bob and what you have listed above would get you reprimanded by your Service Advisor and laughed at by the experienced techs. I'm saying all of this so that people here don't go and waste their money and think they got the job done, when in all reality they didn't. :-) As for changing the oil in your Vette and leaving a few old quarts in, well, the old oil will contaminate the new and cut its effectiveness down. You need to get all of the old oil out, or yes, your oil change is essentially ruined. Anyone has successfully installed the kit? The heater hoses are not easily accessible(if I am talking about the right hose....) , I don't know how to safely cut and reconnect it with the kit. Any ideas?
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Post by liquidretro on Apr 19, 2012 16:04:41 GMT -6
Is there a air bleeder valve on the 3.5L motors? I am planning on doing this soon but want to know where all the parts are before I start.
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Post by ntrenn on Apr 19, 2012 21:53:30 GMT -6
The 3.5 sucks to change the coolant. If you can get it loose, there is a pipe plug on the front cover above the balancer that you can use to drain the coolant out of the block. If you can't get that out, the next best is to take off the t-stat housing. Get yourself a new Tstat gasket if you want - they sell them separately. About half the coolant is trapped in the block with no real way to drain it.
When you refill, fill the block from the coolant outlet, then fill the radiator, then start it and bleed the radiator through the plug on the passenger side tank. Should be self burping, but you need to run the engine at 2000-2500 rpm to ensure enough pressure to push the air bubbles around.
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Post by liquidretro on May 2, 2012 8:06:32 GMT -6
The 3.5 sucks to change the coolant. If you can get it loose, there is a pipe plug on the front cover above the balancer that you can use to drain the coolant out of the block. If you can't get that out, the next best is to take off the t-stat housing. Get yourself a new Tstat gasket if you want - they sell them separately. About half the coolant is trapped in the block with no real way to drain it. When you refill, fill the block from the coolant outlet, then fill the radiator, then start it and bleed the radiator through the plug on the passenger side tank. Should be self burping, but you need to run the engine at 2000-2500 rpm to ensure enough pressure to push the air bubbles around. Thanks, I did mine and it was not nearly that difficult. I just undid the drain on the drivers side of the radiator and let it drain out. I got a little over a gallon out. Sealed back up the system and refilled. I got the engine back up to operating temp, made sure I was full then drove it a bit. Let it cool off then refilled to full. I know this is not all of the coolent so I plan on doing what I did again here in a few weeks.
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Post by ntrenn on May 2, 2012 9:06:58 GMT -6
Liquidretro - yep - that's a process as any. There's at least as much coolant in the block as there is in the radiator. The number 1 reason for changing the coolant is to re-charge the corrosion inhibitors with fresh.
I got ahold of a bad AC Delco (go figure) water pump and ended up having my LX5 apart several times. When your water pump fails, make sure the new one's impeller LOOKS EXACTLY like the old one.
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Post by liquidretro on May 2, 2012 10:26:16 GMT -6
Liquidretro - yep - that's a process as any. There's at least as much coolant in the block as there is in the radiator. The number 1 reason for changing the coolant is to re-charge the corrosion inhibitors with fresh. I got ahold of a bad AC Delco (go figure) water pump and ended up having my LX5 apart several times. When your water pump fails, make sure the new one's impeller LOOKS EXACTLY like the old one. Ya, since the coolant flows at a pretty good rate I figured it would all mix up in the engine as it runs. While not as good as draining everything out, it works to get new fluid in and recharge the corrosion inhibitors with fresh. It also is much easier and takes less time. Your method is definitely more complete.
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