Brake job question

[rocketman]

Has anyone done a brake job on a second generation? I did mine today (the '01) 40,000 miles. I had rotors cut and bought GM pads. Now the fronts are clicking when you change from forward to reverse and back again. It also flutters at about 10mph to stop. I checked the brackets for the pads and the pads move a little. I don't think this is it though. I even put the old one back in and it still does it. Other than that I can't figure it out. Any ideas?

[Aurora40]

If you got the rotors turned, you must have taken the whole caliper bracket off. Make sure it is on tight. Did you buy new bolts? I have not done this job on the Aurora yet, but on most GM cars, the caliper bracket bolts have thread locker and cannot be reused. Also the torque required is usually 100+ lb-ft, enough that it is very hard to apply enough torque (at least for me).

I would check that the caliper is not rocking when changing directions. That's what I would guess it is.

[rocketman]

It seems the guy who turned the rotors must have been in a hurry. Somehow, the rotor was the problem. I bought a new one and all is fine. My guess is he cut both sides at once in one swoop which created too much heat and warped it somehow.

Be very careful of turning the rear rotor, much less meat and more likely to warp. For the $38 to replace the front, new rear rotors would probably cost almost as much to cut as buy new. I'd buy new rear ones going forward.

I just put locktite on the bolts, that was not an issue.

Also be very sure you clean every surface on the hub and corresponding rotor surface. I was able to cure a rear caliper issue just by cleaning it up.

All of this sounds stupid but it seems the brakes are that sensitive.

[Letitroll98]

Did you season the rotors correctly? A flutter in the rotors would point to a heat problem as you indicated, but may be from a different cause.

[urbandaddy]

Your calipers might be sticking aswell.

[rocketman]

I know my post seems wierd but trust me it's accurate. I have done my share of brake jobs and never saw anything like this. I even had my brother-in-law ( a former certified factory mechanic) check it with me and we were stumped. If you review the manual, you'll see they mention cleaning of the hub and rotor. They even made special tools for it. If you can't trust the guy to cut your rotors a little at a time and slowly, buy new ones.

It seems I get to find these things first - like the crank sensors I experienced before most. Hopefully, someone will benefit from this thread.

[BNICOV]

You are better off just buying new rotors each time you do a brake job (if you are doing it yourself, you've already saved the dough with your own sweat). With my bonny, I think parts used to cost me about a hundred bucks (1st line pads and white box rotors). Guess what, they lasted longer than the Delco stuff that cost 3 times as much and also worked better (no squealing). I used to go about 40k's with Delco, with the Wagner pads they were still going strong after 60k's and the rotors didn't flutter at all. GO FIGURE!!

[blackandsilver]

I am planning on doing my brakes this week on my 4.0. I have had a few shops check out the vibration in which they tell me it is warped rotors. Is there any brand of rotor that you suggest or just the standard stuff at AutoZone? I saw some drilled and slotted and zinc coated on e-bay. Has anyone ever purchased rotors online and are you satisfied? Any help would greatly be appreciated. Before I start any special tools beside the rear caliper tool?

[Custom88]

I like the Raybestos line of brake pads from www.partsamerica.com I usually end up going with their quietstop ceramic brake pads and their rotors.. nice difference compared to stock!