Post by centennialman on Jul 1, 2007 9:34:38 GMT -6
Following on the project done by latenight72, here is my version of upgrading and replacing the stock 2nd gen rear sway bar with an STS bar.
Materials used:
2 x 3/8 x 6" grade 8 bolts
2 x 3/8 locking nuts (nylon inserts)
2 x 7/16" x 3/4" grade 8 nuts and bolts
2 x 3/8 x 2.25" lengths of black iron pipe
2 pieces of 3/16" x 1.5" steel bar
2 x 3/8" stainless lock washers.
2 x 7/16 hardened lock washers.
Energy Suspension 22mm sway bar bushings
Energy Suspension link donuts and washers.
Prep work.
Using the 3/8 pipe and 2 washers for each, weld up 2 'spools' for the link assemblies. They should look like this:
Paint them: Black is a nice color.
As per latenight72's instructions, construct 2 backing plates for the bushings. They should look similar to this: **See 2nd Edit below**
The longer bolt is from the car - you will be removing it later.
Using a carbide die-grinder, reduce the size of the nipples on the donuts so that they will fit into the holes in the sway bar and suspension arm. You might be able to see that they have been ground away in the following pic:
Together, the new link looks like this:
You are ready to rocket: Taking all safety precautions, jack up the rear of the car and remove both wheels. Safety stands are strongly recommended. Here I am about to commence work, using my new high-tech creeper:
First, remove the old bushings. They are fastened by a single bolt to the rear sub-frame. They are 13mm heads. You will have to pry the brackets apart to get the bushings off of the old bar.
Once both bushings have been removed, remove both the link assemblies. This may or may not be difficult, depending on how badly rusted they are. Once removed, they look like this, assuming that they come off easily, otherwise you have a pile of broken parts:
You can remove the sway bar now. 2 pairs of hands helps. It will come out if you rotate it a bit. Once done, you can compare the new and old parts (this step not necessary, but good for a pic).
Insert the new sway bar, and slide the new bushings on. Then put on the bushing bracket and bolt the top of the bracket to the steel plate that you made, using the 3/4 x 7/16" bolt and lock washer. The plate will extend above the frame, but that's just the way it's going to work. Now, fasten the bracket and plate to the frame, using the old bolt. I torqued them to 40ftlb.
Finally, attach each link assembly:
I just kept torquing until there was no air between any of the donuts and steel. Hope that's OK.
Finally, replace the wheels, and lower the car. Torque the wheel nuts to 100 ftlbs. Enjoy.
At the end, you will have a pile of old parts.
EDIT: BTW. the old bar is quite light in comparison to the STS bar, which feels much more solid. If it's not my imagination, the old bar is hollow, so it's more like a steel tube than a bar. Any opinion about this from others? The STS bar may be hollow, but it sure didn't feel like it.
2nd Edit: Do not cut slots in the steel backing plate, just drill holes to line up with end of the slots in the bracket. Otherwise, the whole assembly may slide up and down; mine was doing that. Also, use lock washers under the bolts holding the braket to the sub-frame. There wasn't any there before, but they will assist in stopping up and down movement of the assembly.
Materials used:
2 x 3/8 x 6" grade 8 bolts
2 x 3/8 locking nuts (nylon inserts)
2 x 7/16" x 3/4" grade 8 nuts and bolts
2 x 3/8 x 2.25" lengths of black iron pipe
2 pieces of 3/16" x 1.5" steel bar
2 x 3/8" stainless lock washers.
2 x 7/16 hardened lock washers.
Energy Suspension 22mm sway bar bushings
Energy Suspension link donuts and washers.
Prep work.
Using the 3/8 pipe and 2 washers for each, weld up 2 'spools' for the link assemblies. They should look like this:
Paint them: Black is a nice color.
As per latenight72's instructions, construct 2 backing plates for the bushings. They should look similar to this: **See 2nd Edit below**
The longer bolt is from the car - you will be removing it later.
Using a carbide die-grinder, reduce the size of the nipples on the donuts so that they will fit into the holes in the sway bar and suspension arm. You might be able to see that they have been ground away in the following pic:
Together, the new link looks like this:
You are ready to rocket: Taking all safety precautions, jack up the rear of the car and remove both wheels. Safety stands are strongly recommended. Here I am about to commence work, using my new high-tech creeper:
First, remove the old bushings. They are fastened by a single bolt to the rear sub-frame. They are 13mm heads. You will have to pry the brackets apart to get the bushings off of the old bar.
Once both bushings have been removed, remove both the link assemblies. This may or may not be difficult, depending on how badly rusted they are. Once removed, they look like this, assuming that they come off easily, otherwise you have a pile of broken parts:
You can remove the sway bar now. 2 pairs of hands helps. It will come out if you rotate it a bit. Once done, you can compare the new and old parts (this step not necessary, but good for a pic).
Insert the new sway bar, and slide the new bushings on. Then put on the bushing bracket and bolt the top of the bracket to the steel plate that you made, using the 3/4 x 7/16" bolt and lock washer. The plate will extend above the frame, but that's just the way it's going to work. Now, fasten the bracket and plate to the frame, using the old bolt. I torqued them to 40ftlb.
Finally, attach each link assembly:
I just kept torquing until there was no air between any of the donuts and steel. Hope that's OK.
Finally, replace the wheels, and lower the car. Torque the wheel nuts to 100 ftlbs. Enjoy.
At the end, you will have a pile of old parts.
EDIT: BTW. the old bar is quite light in comparison to the STS bar, which feels much more solid. If it's not my imagination, the old bar is hollow, so it's more like a steel tube than a bar. Any opinion about this from others? The STS bar may be hollow, but it sure didn't feel like it.
2nd Edit: Do not cut slots in the steel backing plate, just drill holes to line up with end of the slots in the bracket. Otherwise, the whole assembly may slide up and down; mine was doing that. Also, use lock washers under the bolts holding the braket to the sub-frame. There wasn't any there before, but they will assist in stopping up and down movement of the assembly.