Post by latenight72 on Apr 3, 2007 20:49:28 GMT -6
Got bored during spring break, so I decided to upgrade the front swaybar mounts to poly. But, being that it is not as straight forward as I had originally thought, it is a 'bit more involved then a simple, unbolt, and retighten.
Here's a guide for the Front Swaybar mounts:
'95-'96 = 1" Mounts (1.06" actual diameter)
'97-'99 = 1 1/8" Mounts (1.14")
'01-'03 = 1 1/8" Mounts (1.18")
I picked up the mounts from Pep-Boys, they had a display of a bunch of Energy Suspension poly components. The mounts are 1 1/8" (part no. 9.5164G), $19.99 for two. The endlinks are a future project, so we'll negate them right now.
Tools/Parts Needed
1. 13mm Socket
2. 19mm Socket (Wheel lugs)
3. Jack & Jack Stand
4. Torque Wrench (not necessary)
5. Flathead (Flatblade) Screwdriver (#422 pry-tool <-- For 'Shroom)
6. Hacksaw (or Power tools, if you have access, as did I)
7. Drill & 1/2" Drill bit (capable of drilling steel, Cobalt/Ti perferred) A set of Stepped Drill bits, such a these, would be Ideal.
8. Mounts (Pep-Boys)
9. 2" wide x 3/16" thick Steel plate (Home Depot/Lowes/etc.)
10. Grease & Grease Gun (Pep-Boys)
Lower Plate(s)
Use the hack saw to cut two 4 1/2" strips from the steel plate. Drill out two 1/2" holes, 3 1/2" apart, be sure to center them on the plate, both vertically, and horizontally. The bolts are smaller then 1/2", but you'll need a 'bit of adjustment. You must use STEEL for this, I used aluminum, and they are already bending, I will be replacing them later this week. These plates will be going under the new mounts.
Directions
1. Jack up car & Remove wheel (remember the E-brake)
2. Place car on jack stand (I use the lower arm mount cage)
3. Lower jack, and place under control arm
4. Jack up the suspension arm, to relieve tension on sway-bar. About parallel with the ground is good.
5. Unbolt the original mount, 13mm hex.
6. Use the flathead screw driver to help pry off the old mount.
7. Clean area with rag
8. Remove new bushing from cage, and liberally apply grease to inner "races" of bushing
9. Slid bushing onto control arm, opening towards the front.
10. Place cage over bushing
11. Place Lower Plate under the mount
12. Slid the 13mm bolts back into position, CAREFULLY working the cage back and forth to be able to get the screw into position. Thread the bolt in a few threads
13. Lower the jack a little, and tighten bolts to 35 ft. lbs, or if you do not have a Torque wrench, snug and then a little more.
14. The mount should be as far forward as possible, but do not force it forward, or allow the bar to force it while threading the bolt.
15. Use grease gun to apply more grease to the bushing, via the grease fitting.
16. Remove the jack, and replace the wheel. Jack up the car and remove the jack stand.
17. Repeat steps 1-16 for the other side.
Thoughts
Overall the steering feels alot better, but I believe it's more due to the sloppiness of my original 81k bushings. The steering givens a more feedback then before. The car feels alot more solid then before, and the bumps feel more linear. Body roll is greatly reduced as well. For $30 worth of materials, pending you have the tools/equipment necessary, it is well worth it. I will be working on the rear as soon as I can find some 3/4" mounts. I will update when I do the rears & endlinks as well.
Here are a few pics w/ explanations above.
You can see how I made a perfect outline of the mount, this was because I did not know how they would fit, and I did not know the distance between the bolts. It is much easier the way mentioned above.
Original 81k bushings, well worn.
Most of the way on. These are very easy to cross-thread if you do not take your time.
You can see how the lower plate bridges the gap that the original mount used to sit in.
A couple random completed shots
Side by Side, you can see how the original mount is molded to sit into the pocket on the frame.
Another worn-out factory bushing picture.
Here's a guide for the Front Swaybar mounts:
'95-'96 = 1" Mounts (1.06" actual diameter)
'97-'99 = 1 1/8" Mounts (1.14")
'01-'03 = 1 1/8" Mounts (1.18")
I picked up the mounts from Pep-Boys, they had a display of a bunch of Energy Suspension poly components. The mounts are 1 1/8" (part no. 9.5164G), $19.99 for two. The endlinks are a future project, so we'll negate them right now.
Tools/Parts Needed
1. 13mm Socket
2. 19mm Socket (Wheel lugs)
3. Jack & Jack Stand
4. Torque Wrench (not necessary)
5. Flathead (Flatblade) Screwdriver (#422 pry-tool <-- For 'Shroom)
6. Hacksaw (or Power tools, if you have access, as did I)
7. Drill & 1/2" Drill bit (capable of drilling steel, Cobalt/Ti perferred) A set of Stepped Drill bits, such a these, would be Ideal.
8. Mounts (Pep-Boys)
9. 2" wide x 3/16" thick Steel plate (Home Depot/Lowes/etc.)
10. Grease & Grease Gun (Pep-Boys)
Lower Plate(s)
Use the hack saw to cut two 4 1/2" strips from the steel plate. Drill out two 1/2" holes, 3 1/2" apart, be sure to center them on the plate, both vertically, and horizontally. The bolts are smaller then 1/2", but you'll need a 'bit of adjustment. You must use STEEL for this, I used aluminum, and they are already bending, I will be replacing them later this week. These plates will be going under the new mounts.
Directions
1. Jack up car & Remove wheel (remember the E-brake)
2. Place car on jack stand (I use the lower arm mount cage)
3. Lower jack, and place under control arm
4. Jack up the suspension arm, to relieve tension on sway-bar. About parallel with the ground is good.
5. Unbolt the original mount, 13mm hex.
6. Use the flathead screw driver to help pry off the old mount.
7. Clean area with rag
8. Remove new bushing from cage, and liberally apply grease to inner "races" of bushing
9. Slid bushing onto control arm, opening towards the front.
10. Place cage over bushing
11. Place Lower Plate under the mount
12. Slid the 13mm bolts back into position, CAREFULLY working the cage back and forth to be able to get the screw into position. Thread the bolt in a few threads
13. Lower the jack a little, and tighten bolts to 35 ft. lbs, or if you do not have a Torque wrench, snug and then a little more.
14. The mount should be as far forward as possible, but do not force it forward, or allow the bar to force it while threading the bolt.
15. Use grease gun to apply more grease to the bushing, via the grease fitting.
16. Remove the jack, and replace the wheel. Jack up the car and remove the jack stand.
17. Repeat steps 1-16 for the other side.
Thoughts
Overall the steering feels alot better, but I believe it's more due to the sloppiness of my original 81k bushings. The steering givens a more feedback then before. The car feels alot more solid then before, and the bumps feel more linear. Body roll is greatly reduced as well. For $30 worth of materials, pending you have the tools/equipment necessary, it is well worth it. I will be working on the rear as soon as I can find some 3/4" mounts. I will update when I do the rears & endlinks as well.
Here are a few pics w/ explanations above.
You can see how I made a perfect outline of the mount, this was because I did not know how they would fit, and I did not know the distance between the bolts. It is much easier the way mentioned above.
Original 81k bushings, well worn.
Most of the way on. These are very easy to cross-thread if you do not take your time.
You can see how the lower plate bridges the gap that the original mount used to sit in.
A couple random completed shots
Side by Side, you can see how the original mount is molded to sit into the pocket on the frame.
Another worn-out factory bushing picture.
