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Post by griffey on Dec 11, 2008 22:11:29 GMT -6
Hi Folks! I've noticed in the past few days that the compressor for my rear air shocks has been running, well, rather frequently. I know (thanks to you folks) that it runs for a bit a minute or two after starting my car, but now it is running maybe every five or ten minutes? Is this just a winter thing that I've never noticed before? Or do I have some sort of leak in the system and need to plan a weekend of my Christmas break working on my poor car instead of on the floor in my basement? I'm a pessimist, of course, and am assuming I have something serious going on. I guess I still don't understand the air shock thing--I used to have air shocks on my '69 Camaro way-back-when and they had air valves (like a tire!) on them and I'd just add air to them like I'd add air to a tire (and it made the back end of the car go up, of course). When the air compressor thing runs on my Aurora, I certainly don't feel any difference in height of the end of the car one way or another. I've read some posts here about the box with the switch about it to test whether the compressor is working or not---the long and short of my question is this: I'm sure there's a problem with the air shock system--is it something that is totally necessary or can I just disable the whole thing (or will the butt end of my car eventually drop down to the ground). I'm happy to have gotten to 150,000 miles, and I'd just as soon ride this thing out as long as it can go... Thanks in advance for any advice. Sorry for the rambling post!  G.-- |
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Post by crashmedic on Dec 12, 2008 9:55:05 GMT -6
You can just disable the whole thing and it will not affect your ride height or the ride itself. The air is just for load leveling.
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Post by ntrenn on Dec 12, 2008 12:23:48 GMT -6
Just like the Gabriel Hijackers you had back in the day, except the ones on your Aurora are more sophisticated - you no longer have to pull into the gas station and air up the little valve behind the license plate. The General was kind enough to give you an on-board compressor with a level sensor that does all that work for you automatically.
It's probable that you have a leaky shock or a leaky line somewhere. You should be able to pull the fuse to disable it until it warms up...
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Post by griffey on Dec 12, 2008 13:18:46 GMT -6
Thanks to both of you for the quick responses (this forum pretty much rocks). I'll just disable the thing and not worry about it. As long as the radio keeps working, I'm going to keep driving this car...  Thanks again! G.-- |
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Post by Rocketv8 on Dec 12, 2008 13:24:57 GMT -6
this happened to me... i had a leaky shock which caused the compressor to run too much.....it ended up frying the compressor though and the car became "stuck" up high in the back.... if you are going to disable it, i'd do it now before your compressor goes!!!!!
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Post by fraser on Dec 12, 2008 21:53:11 GMT -6
I concur with above, pull the fuse in fuse center under back seat before the compressor burns itself out in a futile effort to level with probable leak somewhere. Think spring
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Post by griffey on Dec 14, 2008 17:21:21 GMT -6
Great idea! Thanks Rocket and fraser! I've had a few brews and am officially retired for the weekend to just watching football, so maybe I'll pull the fuse tomorrow after work.
Thanks!
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Post by jeremy1980 on Dec 22, 2008 15:59:17 GMT -6
I replaced my air shocks after noticing it swaying a little too much in the back after bumps at highway speeds. After putting on new ones I never realized how much my compressor was overworking. It runs much less now. I'm a worst case scenario type person too, but those shocks were a lot easier to replace, and a lot cheaper than I was expecting. I got a pair of Monroe's from Napa for $70 or $80. I'd suggest putting new shocks on when you get a chance. No hurry, since you're from the north like me, you'll probably want to wait til nicer weather for any job like that. Just an idea. If pulling the fuse takes care of it, than you're good to go that way too. |
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Post by alecbeaton on Dec 22, 2008 23:43:15 GMT -6
Don't pull the fuse, that's the cheap way to go New air shocks are ~ $50, and make the ride SO much better. If you're getting to the point that the shocks are leaking air, I'd bet the sealed gas part of them is pretty much junk too. I see you're in Minnesota. So am I!!! This is what mine looked like after 175K miles of MN weather:  Those are originals. And I didn't replace them until about 15k after I got the car. |
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Post by robaurora01 on Dec 22, 2008 23:56:39 GMT -6
yea thats just about ruint lol
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Post by Deleted on Dec 24, 2008 7:47:27 GMT -6
ahhh those arent ruined, some WD-40 and duct tape and they'd be good as new
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bojanks
Aurora Passenger
Miss my Olds...
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Post by bojanks on Dec 28, 2008 15:26:59 GMT -6
yea, i had a leaky shock on my mine which caused that compressor to run WAY too much, but didn't think to pull that fuse. it also was taking bumps really bad there so i looked for aftermarket ones, but none were available, even my GM dealer had to order them from some other dealer. i wish i coulda paid even $80, instead new AC Delco Air Shocks ran me $350+!!! the ride however, is IMMENSELY better now!
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Post by fraser on Dec 28, 2008 15:55:54 GMT -6
I love Alecbeatons novel idea; fix it!
My suggestion was not to ignore the real problem but to stop the compressor running in the meantime. I concur rear shock replacement is not difficult on this vehicle. And not particularly costly, seems my monroes were about $120. Shouldn't even be horrendous to have some one else do it.
When I purchased my 96 the fuse was blown. My shocks weren't as nasty as those pictures but close. After replacing them and brittle hoses around pump it held air perfect. Only problem was at every start the ass end went up and up until the compressor motor overloaded due to too much pressure.
The issue was (is) the solenoid inside the head of the compressor is dead. Therefore it does not vent the pressure. Any body got one?
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Post by 71corvette454 on Dec 30, 2008 4:30:37 GMT -6
Hello,
Does anybody know where can I buy a rear shock air compressor and how much it costs? Mine is rusty and cracked and does not work.
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Post by oneye on Dec 30, 2008 6:04:00 GMT -6
Try EDEN online or CarParts.com to locate one near you. I've seen prices anywhere from $135 to $300, the latter being ridiculous ...
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Post by majoraurora on Jan 17, 2009 18:30:18 GMT -6
Try EDEN online or CarParts.com to locate one near you. I've seen prices anywhere from $135 to $300, the latter being ridiculous ...
Eden rocks, oh yeah, replace the shocks. Money well spent... |
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Post by deziac on Jul 26, 2015 19:25:51 GMT -6
This is probably a dumb question, but if the compressor is not working, would I not be able to hear it? I think I just need to replace the rear air shocks, but just wondering if it might be the compressor or other components that may not be functioning properly as well. Basically after start up I can hear the compressor running for may 8-15 seconds and then it will turn off. Any info or suggestions would be helpful, thanks!
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bobsblue95
Super Moderator 
Scars of pleasure, scars of pain. Atmospheric changes make you sensitive again.
Posts: 3,125
Staff Member
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Post by bobsblue95 on Jul 27, 2015 9:56:07 GMT -6
That seems like it's working to me. The problem most people have is the air lines or shocks leaking, causing the pump to run excessively. (old post but:) bojanks, gee the dealer couldn't find a cheaper replacement? Color me shocked... not! Monroe MA822 is the standard Aurora aftermarket rear air shock. Fits all classics including the stock air fitting. |
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Post by bullseye on Jun 12, 2016 5:55:21 GMT -6
Looking for help on compressor issue. After replacing rear shocks, factory, the car inflated to full height and stayed thrre. I've read others have had this issue and a possible solenoid issue in compressor, but did not see a final resolution. Has anyone found the cause and ultimate fix for this?
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tigger
Administrator 
Posts: 2,844 
Staff Member
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Post by tigger on Jun 12, 2016 20:58:17 GMT -6
What year bullseye? I think most with this problem wind up replacing the compressor. But if the problem is indeed the exhaust solenoid/valve, you could just replace the head. probably no cheaper though... You may want to start a new thread asking for a ELC wiring diagram and plug pin outs for your year, it'll help you test other components in the system before you invest any real money... |
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Post by stvgitz on Jul 12, 2016 20:17:20 GMT -6
I have never heard mine run, ever, in the last 4 years.. yet the ride height is always the same and at a decent height. I hope it is not broken
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RCA1186
Administrator
Rob
Go Pack Go!
Posts: 4,838
Staff Member
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Post by RCA1186 on Jul 13, 2016 6:42:31 GMT -6
Turn the car on and sit on the trunk, see if it comes on
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Post by sall on Jul 13, 2016 7:02:47 GMT -6
Don't really even need to do that. Key on/engine off and it should kick on regardless after about 40 seconds. I can still hear mine do its check with the engine running.
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Post by dwight1999 on Oct 31, 2016 18:03:52 GMT -6
Removed my compressor and found "rotten" hoses to the compressor and air dryer; replaced them and the ride is now closer to what it should be. However, used Gabriel HiJackers instead of OEM or Monroe shocks. It seems the Gabriel's want to run at a higher pressure (25 lbs) as opposed to the 7 to 14 lbs as the OEM. Can the air dryer be serviced? Tried to take mine apart but won't budge.
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