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Post by intheb0x on Feb 7, 2009 10:28:55 GMT -6
well i have been waiting for it to get nicer out, today finally allmost 50 degrees! anyways im taking it over to my dads house and pulling the coils, plugs to see if any are fouled up or anything like that.
i might also try to open up the exhaust and look at the cat.
i have to do the rear brakes as well.
will let you all know.
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Post by intheb0x on Feb 7, 2009 20:23:46 GMT -6
OK! after some knuckle bustin, especially on the stupid thing above the rear plugs i change them, i have some pics of the plugs, they all looked well, burnt white at the tips, on 2 of the coils on the rear pack they were rusted and corroded all to hell, i went and bought 2 new boots and wire brushed the hell out of the prongs on the coil pack, seems like water got in there some how, anyways i put dielectric grease all over springs, plug tips and coil prongs, installed everything was fine, noticed it starts up stronger, seems to be louder too, more power seems good. until i leave and go home, i decided to take the long way, wrong decision.. car starts back to its original problem of misfiring and cat glowing red i never win.
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Post by rocketman on Feb 8, 2009 6:48:03 GMT -6
Logically, I would think that the terminals with rust are the problem ones as they were noticably different than the others. I would get the heat sensor and check the cat as mentioned earlier and if that didn't work, replace that rear coil. Of course the dealer will be happy to take your money too.
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Post by aurora2001tan on Feb 8, 2009 10:10:40 GMT -6
Info - Misfire DTCs and Catalytic Converter Damage Due to Installation of Alarm Systems #02-06-05-004 Misfire DTCs and Catalytic Converter Damage Due to Installation of Alarm Systems 2003 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks
2003 HUMMER H2
2003 and Prior Isuzu Light Duty Trucks
General Motors Engineering, in an effort to determine the root cause of catalytic converter damage, has determined that aftermarket alarm systems incorrectly installed in vehicles have the potential to cause misfire codes and damage to the converter. These alarm systems use a circuit interrupt which utilizes the ignition circuit on the vehicles.
These alarm systems utilize mechanical relays and normal vehicle movement can trigger these relays to engage and disengage the ignition circuit while the vehicle is in motion. These disruptions of the ignition circuit, which occur in milliseconds, may cause more fuel to be commanded. Over time, this dumping of fuel on and off again can cause misfire codes and ultimately damage the converter assembly.
Engineering could not identify any alarms that utilize solid state circuitry that would eliminate this concern. Because of this, it has been determined that all alarm systems must be routed through the starter circuit in order to avoid this condition.
Dealers must be aware of this issue and take note of the wiring on vehicles with alarm systems that come in for repair, particularly for catalytic converter damage that seem to have no known root cause.
With a cat [glow=red,2,300]glowing red [/glow] uh yeah I would check ignition and fuel system.
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Post by webenergy on Feb 8, 2009 18:02:43 GMT -6
I read through this thread. Yup, all 7 pages.
#1 Stop driving your car! Something is causing large amounts of fuel into your cat. Eventually it glows red because of the buildup. It's very dangerous and eventually you'll have a glob of molten metal in your cat from it heating up so much. #2 Find out what is causing it before replacing the cat! Otherwise you'll burn out the new cat too! #3 Like aurora2001tan said, check the fuel delivery system. #4 Possible causes are blocked/bad injectors, spark plugs/wires, computer issue causing the fuel to burn too rich, burnt valves/rings.
You want to find the problem before it starts to cause other issues too. Does the car work hard to keep itself cool? Fans turn on often?
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Post by intheb0x on Feb 9, 2009 10:44:56 GMT -6
Well I don't have a choice, I have to drive the car,also the car does not start misfiring until I drive for longer distances, to and from my work is a short distance so the car makes or back and forth fine without misfiring. As for the temp the gauge sits normal in the middle, does not go any higher.
Where would I start with the fuel system?
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Post by webenergy on Feb 9, 2009 11:10:23 GMT -6
Well, you said you already replaced the plugs, boot, and cleaned off the connecting wires. So I don't think it's a plugs issue. You need to get your car scanned and checked by a professional. The scan tool is the main thing so you know where to look. If it's the PCM causing the fuel to mix too rich, you'll need to get it flashed at the dealer. Anything else, you'll need to pull off the valve cover and check the valves and see if any of them are burnt. Then, check the fuel injectors while you're in there. I don't have a shop manual so I don't know the exact prodecure to get to the fuel injectors.
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Post by intheb0x on Feb 9, 2009 12:01:23 GMT -6
Yes, I'm trying to get off work for half a day so I can take her into the dealer.
Hopefully tomarrow.
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Post by intheb0x on Feb 11, 2009 9:02:00 GMT -6
Ok at the dealer now, had it scanned on there big comp, about 5 codes were present, i dont have them now but ill post up after i get all the info,
dealer told me to stop the misfire both coilpacks need to be replaced, they told me both were bad.
why would both packs go bad at one time is the question, they quoted me over 1k for the work, obviously ill replace the coils myself since i just did the plugs, i was told the codes were a TCC code, 2 oxygen sensor codes, a brake switch and something else, i figured along with him the oxygen sensor codes along with the tcc has to do with the car when it misfires, the sensors are getting so hot they throw codes, and the tcc because the car shifts funny when misfiring.
so does that sound right to you guys? both coil packs shot?
also rock auto has the delphi ones as someone mentioned in this post, should i go with delphi or duralast? $382.90 from rock auto about the same at autozone for both too...
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Post by intheb0x on Feb 11, 2009 9:08:54 GMT -6
heres a picture of the back coil pack and the corroded leads
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Post by intheb0x on Feb 11, 2009 9:59:21 GMT -6
Codes present P0131 P0124 p0300 p0742 p1574
Says tested p0300 and no spark on #1#3#5#7
Does that still mean coilpacks or something else would cause the odd cylinders to not fire?
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Post by rocketman on Feb 11, 2009 10:27:54 GMT -6
Holy cow, those terminals look terminal (sorry for that). Yes, I agree, the 3 codes were triggered by the misfire situation. It is coincidental that they both went bad at the same time - don't try to rationalize it. BTW, one bank of cylinders would be 1,3,5,7 and the other 2,4,6,8. The bank close to the radiator is the even side. Replace both coils, go to Autozone and reset/clear codes. If the brake light acts up, deal with it separately.
I would go with Delphi. Some of the Autozone parts are very cheap (for a reason). I found out on a u-joint for my truck. I use either Napa or OEM on the Olds depending upon the part. I will not use Autozone parts again unless I am fixing a beater and beaters are not my style.
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Post by intheb0x on Feb 11, 2009 10:35:28 GMT -6
Thanks for the reply.
Would it mean since the rear coil pack is the cylinders misfiring that I should just try to replace the rear coil pack and see if that takes care of the problem??
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Post by rocketman on Feb 11, 2009 11:31:40 GMT -6
I would do them both and be done with it..........
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Post by intheb0x on Feb 11, 2009 20:07:00 GMT -6
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Post by rocketman on Feb 11, 2009 20:27:00 GMT -6
I would consider the back the right. I looked at our car and the part seems identical with the exception of the paint color. Light silver for front, dark gray for rear. This pic looks like dark gray. I went on their site and I believe you have identified the right one based upon color and right bank.
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Post by aurora2001tan on Feb 11, 2009 21:00:26 GMT -6
the back is the right, just buy two of them and swap your sensors on them.
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Post by intheb0x on Feb 11, 2009 22:15:20 GMT -6
swap the sensors? wouldnt that beat the purpose of buying the whole thing with module?
does the module never go bad or something?
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Post by ntrenn on Feb 13, 2009 23:57:55 GMT -6
Not sure, but pretty sure the only difference between front and rear coil packs is the paint on the part.
Seems pretty strange that ALL 4 would go at the same time. Most only fail a single cylinder, but all 4 being dead or semi-dead would surely put plenty of fuel in the exhaust for the cat to burn up.....
They are under $200 delivered from Rockauto....Delphi brand - you'll save about $10 in shipping to buy them both at the same time...
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Post by aurora2001tan on Feb 14, 2009 16:53:43 GMT -6
swap the sensors? wouldnt that beat the purpose of buying the whole thing with module? does the module never go bad or something? did the actual coils fail as in insulation breakdown or did the module fail.
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Post by intheb0x on Feb 14, 2009 22:53:44 GMT -6
well i ended up getting the rear coil from rock auto and had it shipped overnight.
i didnt have enough cash after going to the dealer to buy both.
ran the car after installing the rear coil pack and it runs better then ever, it seems to have unleashed the beast inside the aurora, it starts up stronger and idles like its not even on, the car picks up well with little gas being applied.
im sure i will still have to replace the cat soon enough, i think that will be a magna flow or some other brand high flow cat.
so lets keep this in our heads as a problem with our v8s and that the auroras coil packs dont just suddenly go bad and start to misfire, mine would only go out after driving and letting the car heat to normal temp, after driving at normal temp for awhile the car would just suddenly misfire and dump all the fuel to burn the cat up.
someone else mentioned on here that there coils were going and it would only show under heavy or sudden throttle, normal driving would show no issues.
i would like to personally thank everyone for there help and assistance in this issue, i will be replacing the other coil pack when i get more funds for the aurora.
im wondering what else i can do to it now since i have done the most common things you can do to keep the aurora like new.
i replaced the ISS, i replaced both front wheel bearings, brakes all the way around, new plugs, new coil pack, transmission drain and fill,new battery and thats about all i can think of, the only things still needing repair on the aurora is a un balanced tire and my AC still has a leak so that doesnt work, i plan on ordering that part from rock auto and replacing it. its a discharge tube where it goes from metal to rubber house where its not sealed correctly.
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Post by dynamic1964 on Feb 15, 2009 3:20:33 GMT -6
Congratulations inthebox. Lovely to hear you smile. Aurora is a women and hard to understand sometimes. ( Like the most girls )
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Post by rocketman on Feb 15, 2009 6:37:59 GMT -6
Congrats! After 8 pages of thread, it's finally fixed!
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Post by webenergy on Feb 15, 2009 14:03:21 GMT -6
Seafoam it every three months to keep it clean too! It'll also help clean out the cat!
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Post by intheb0x on Feb 15, 2009 16:08:21 GMT -6
will do on the sea foam, i think i used it once before but i would be willing to try it again.
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Post by Aurora40 on Feb 16, 2009 14:42:54 GMT -6
seafoam will help clean out the cat??
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Post by alan442 on Feb 17, 2009 17:59:09 GMT -6
Congrats on getting this fixed! I had a hunch it was coil packs. Thanks for keeping us informed. I'm hoping mine hold out 'til 100K (about a year away) and then I'll do that major service and possibly replace the coil packs while I'm at it with the rest of the preventive maintenance items.
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Post by intheb0x on Feb 18, 2009 0:16:22 GMT -6
i dont see why yours wont, since yours is a 03.
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Post by webenergy on Feb 19, 2009 22:13:18 GMT -6
seafoam will help clean out the cat?? Sure, that's where most of your carbon build up is.
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Post by zolly on Mar 5, 2010 12:40:54 GMT -6
Pardon me if I am not within protocol here as I am new (New-Bee) I hope I am replying to a particular post about miss-fire on cyl # 4.
I just read your post and found you have the exact same issue I have. The # 4 spark in Cylinder is dead. I have replaced all spark plugs but still Miss-fire on # 4. Is there an inherent problem with the Coil Packs # 4? The 2001 Aurora 4.0 V8 is a RARE find here (Waterloo Ontario Canada). I cannot find parts...other than the brand new super costly GM parts. Can anyone direct me to a place I can get one for less than my right arm & leg.
BTW, which coil pack is # 4 cylinder located in, front (by Rad) or back (Against the firewall)?
Thank you
TIA
Zolly
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