|
Post by akble on Nov 27, 2004 17:46:47 GMT -6
air compressor on my 96 does not work- think it is froze- also need rear shocks- anyone know of conventional non-air shock replacements? bad idea?
|
|
|
Post by JimW on Nov 27, 2004 18:43:40 GMT -6
My ELC is dead as well (bad sensor, wont be changing it...again) so wait til your current air bagged shocks die then look into some conventional gas powered rear shocks.
I want to see if I can find heavy duty soft ride (dunno if that exists tho)
|
|
|
Post by stevensolds on Nov 28, 2004 11:04:32 GMT -6
how much is the ELC and how long is it supposed to last??
|
|
|
Post by Aurora40 on Nov 28, 2004 11:08:39 GMT -6
If you don't fix it, won't your car sag a bit? The air part constitutes some of the spring. The rear springs are intentionally not as stiff because there's an air-ride. I'd think you'd want to get some other springs and shocks if you wanted to do away with ELC, wouldn't you?
|
|
|
Post by omegaic on Nov 28, 2004 20:49:50 GMT -6
My ELC is also shot, it was always jacking up the rear end. I just manually released the air pressure and ran the car until it reached normal ride height. Then I pulled the ELC relay from under the back seat. The ride difference is negligable, even when I am hauling three people around.
|
|
|
Post by Rocketv8 on Nov 29, 2004 16:42:16 GMT -6
|
|
|
Post by stevensolds on Nov 29, 2004 17:33:58 GMT -6
when it doesnt make that ERRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR noise followed by a "Psssssssssssss" as it lets the air out, lol.
|
|
|
Post by JimW on Nov 29, 2004 18:19:30 GMT -6
I found out mine was dead when I found a torn air bag on the shocks when my exhaust was installed. The system was all disconnected. So anyway, I got a sensor off of Ebay (regular 400 bux an from GM) for 100 USD, I installed it (after having replaced the shox) to find that its probably not the sensor, but the electrics, and my answer to that..is ....eff it..
So now I wait for these shox to die and get some gas powered shocks.
|
|
|
Post by Isnibs on Nov 29, 2004 20:21:33 GMT -6
Rocketv8,
When you first start you Aurora in the morning open the drivers side window and wait for about twenty seconds. You should hear the compressor start up and run for about three seconds as it replaces air lost from the system overnight. The first place to check if it doesn't is the fuse under the back seat marked ELC. If you have to replace the fuse run the test again This time if the compressor runs for a few seconds it should be O.K. If the compressor runs for a lot longer check the height of the rear of the car. If it doesn't lift up at all then your air shocks are probably shot, if it just keeps on going up and up then it is probably your Electronic leveling Control height sensor. When my shocks died there was a lot of black guck around the piston shaft ( the shinny bit on the shocks ) and when the car was loaded with passengers and luggage the rear bottomed out on a ramp. To replace the shocks Monroe MaxAir #MA822 seem to be most popular at between 58$ to 80$ a set depending on where you get them. A very easy D.I.Y
|
|
|
Post by akble on Nov 30, 2004 17:57:01 GMT -6
Isnibs Doed nothing upon starting- fuse was blown, replaced it and still nothing, that fuse blew in day- would you guess electrical or foze compressor? Back to my original question about a non air repalcement shock- what would be a good gas powered replacement? or am I better off spending the $ to track down the problem and fix it along with the 822s? Thanks Andy
|
|
|
Post by Isnibs on Nov 30, 2004 18:40:01 GMT -6
Andy, You would have to check out if the shocks not working affect your Aurora.
The point being that repairs in this area (apart from the 822s replacement) could be costly.
Check the compressor by unpluging it and running power from the battery with a fuseable link.
If you do jack up the rear don't forget to use jack stands under the control arms for safety.
There may be a compressor rebuild kit available.
Sorry I can't help ref the gas powered replacements maybe JimW could put out some feelers as he is on many other Aurora forums, however if you read Aurora40's post you may be into new springs.
Maybe someone else out there has more info.
|
|
|
Post by stevensolds on Dec 2, 2004 19:44:40 GMT -6
if mine goes i will just replace the compressor. dont care how much it costs. i have learned anything on this car, from the battery to the exhaust pipe is special on this car. btw Jim, one day can you plz show me what Magnaflow part number you ordered for your Aurora? I want to get a Magnaflow system like you have, but cant find how to get it. plz help. thx
|
|
|
Post by 489gus on Mar 4, 2005 10:47:15 GMT -6
I have replaced my rear air shocks with units from Autozone. My compressor does work and will pump air. I did have to replace the air lines as I found small pin holes from rubbing. I will assume the ELC is functioning as the compressor will shut off.
My car appears to be sitting a little low in the rearend. How do I adjust the ELC linkage to get a little more rearend height and firmer rearend control?
|
|
|
Post by Custom88 on Mar 4, 2005 10:58:27 GMT -6
the rear air shocks are designed to bring the rear end of the car level again if weight is added to the trunk. If the rear end is low with no extra weight in the trunk it is probably the springs to blame, not the air shocks. Even if the air portion of your shock is totally shot the ride should not be affected so long as you do not have any added weight in your trunk. The only purpose of the air shocks is to bring the ride height back up. I have not been able to find any shocks that do not have the air ride option on them. the ELC was standard on the Aurora, Riviera, and Bonneville for the years that they shared common suspension sizes. Even if your airpump is not working you can still install air ride shocks. The ride won't be worse by going with the air ride shocks. The air portion of the shock is seperate from the gas or liquid dampening of the shock. The monroe max-air shocks are still stiffer than factory even without air hoses hooked to them. You just lose the ability to add several hundred more pounds to the trunk of your car without the rear end sagging.
|
|
|
Post by Isnibs on Mar 4, 2005 12:03:50 GMT -6
Wot Custom88 said and if you need to adjust the ride height you will probably have to remake the ELC linkage. When my system is working I can insert two/three fingers between the top of the tire and the wheel arch.
|
|
|
Post by 489gus on Mar 7, 2005 10:52:23 GMT -6
Yes - there is about 2 inches of height adjustment. On the ELC lever, there is a 10mm screw and adjustment tab. My adjustment tab was loose. So I slid the tab the other side and tighten the 10mm screw. My rearend is a lot more stiff for suspension - almost too high now as the frontend wants to bounce on the highway. I might need to reset the tab in the middle.
|
|
|
Post by Rora99 on Mar 12, 2005 18:39:15 GMT -6
yeah, i have a problem with mine i think, the rear of my aurora sits higher than other aurora's and when i get my 20's i want to get rid of my wheels gap, so anyone have an idea of how i can let the air out or something??? any help would be greatly appreciated thanks
|
|
|
Post by Isnibs on Mar 12, 2005 22:46:19 GMT -6
Rora99 Just adjust as per 489gus's last post. Hopefully its not a problem with your height sensor.
|
|
|
Post by Rora99 on Mar 22, 2005 19:52:10 GMT -6
where is the elc lever??? i wanna lower my car sooo bad
|
|
|
Post by Aurora40 on Mar 22, 2005 19:58:49 GMT -6
It is on the suspension on the rear drivers side. It's a little arm connected to a box.
|
|
|
Post by Isnibs on Mar 22, 2005 20:32:34 GMT -6
Careful your Aurora doesn't sink on you when you move the lever.
|
|
|
Post by Rora99 on Mar 24, 2005 6:21:00 GMT -6
is this the lever, cause if it isnt this i have no clue where it is.
|
|
|
Post by Rora99 on Mar 24, 2005 6:31:46 GMT -6
well i disconnected that bar that goes to that lever and moved it down and nothing happened, sooo i guess thats not it?? or if it is does it take awhile for the rear to lower???
|
|
|
Post by Custom88 on Mar 24, 2005 6:39:49 GMT -6
well i disconnected that bar that goes to that lever and moved it down and nothing happened, sooo i guess thats not it?? or if it is does it take awhile for the rear to lower??? yes.. it does take it a while for the rear to lower. you're on the right track. That is the correct lever.
|
|
|
Post by Rora99 on Mar 24, 2005 14:18:08 GMT -6
well, i moved it down this morning and i just checked it and nothing happened. but, i did pull the ELC fuse earlier and was trying to let out of the rear shocks, you think that has anything to so with it?? if it does i already replaced the fuse and ill check it later.
|
|
|
Post by Isnibs on Mar 24, 2005 19:37:56 GMT -6
To lower vehicle height. loosen lock bolt securing metal arm to height sensor plastic arm, then move plastic arm down. Tighten lock bolt. With the ignition turned on it can take around twenty seconds for the compressor or exhaust solenoid to cut in. Stay safe use jack stands.
|
|
|
Post by Rora99 on Mar 24, 2005 20:18:41 GMT -6
ok, figured it out, you can also pull the other thin arm off the little ball thingy, but anyways, i turned the ignition on, and the compressor kicked on and raised up a tad, then i got under the car (no jacks needed, im pretty skinny) and moved the arm down and waited. about 20-25 seconds later i heard some pssst ing noises coming out from under the rear of the car and it dropped to where it was before i tuned the ignition on......so that brings me to the conclusion that you can raise the rear, just cant drop it
|
|