Gonna need brakes... anyone done it?

[scottydl]

I'm nearing brake-replacement time I think... the pads are low and my pedal feels uneven, so I'm probably looking at new rotors too. I know we've talked about brakes quite a bit (OEM vs. slotted rotors, etc.), but has anyone done it themselves yet? I'd really like to save the labor costs if it's a reasonable DIY job.

Any comments/evaluations on aftermarket parts is much appreciated also!

[erw38]

I recently did my first brake job. Not on my car though! I replaced the rear pads on a 95 Integra. Believe it or not, those brakes (from what I understand) are similar to ours. The have the piston that screws back in to (because of the emergency brake). The first wheel took us about an hour or so to do (because autozone gave us the wrong pads initially). The second wheel took us all of 10 minutes.
I'm sure that you can do it yourself. Just take your time and do one wheel at a time. You might want to siphon some fluid out of the master cylinder first so that when you put the piston back in the fluid that will be pused back has some where to go (and doesn't pop the cap of the MC). Just add some fresh fluid in there afterward. You might have to bleed the system, which I have not done before but have seen done. It looks like a piece of cake as well. Good luck. If need be you can msg me and I will try to help out if I can.

[skeeter]

Brakes are a piece of cake. Only one specialty tool needed. The piston tool for the rear. 10 bucks at autozone. DO NOT PUSH THE FLUID BACK INTO THE MASTER CYLINDER!!!!!!! It is not worth the possible trouble it may cause. Just crack open the bleeder and push the piston back. catch the fluid in a small drain pan. won't be much. Refill after you do each one. Standard rotors and carbon fiber pads 250 at autozone. The front is just like any car two bolts and tap off the caliper. Rotor should be a slight tap to remove. the rears are a lot different but still doable. one bolt on the caliper comes out the other one is a pivot. remove the pads. The caliper mounting frame needs to come off to change the rotor. 18mm socket two bolts below the hub. took me about 30 mins per wheel, hand tools only. remember to use jack stands the rear mounting bolts are tight and take a bit to loosen. Skeeter

[scottydl]

Wow, thanks... your description does make it sound simple, I'm just afraid it'll be more complex once I get the wheels off. As soon as the weather warms up I'll do the fronts... since they are so much simpler I don't forsee any big problems. <fingers crossed>

Where is the bleeder screw located on each wheel?

[aaddil]

Yeah that time has come agian for me to. Not sure if the rear brakes have even been replaced. but should I waste my money on them in the name of balance or to prevent waiting for them to rust over,(thou the rear brakes seem to work fine? or just worry about the front pads and rotors?

[kobalt]

Rear rotors are not prone to wear/warp - it is unlikely they require replacement. Pads however can (and eventually will) wear down. This is a relativley simple job and you can get good pads for about $30 - 40. I recommend it as a DIY project. I will be changing my rear pads shortly (when it gets a bit warmer) and will take pictures.

[erw38]

Rear brakes account for about 30% of the cars total braking power. While not critical, without rear brakes the fronts would be required to account for all of the braking and build up all of the heat required to stop at 4,000 lb car. I would door the rear brakes so that the front ones don't wear out prematurely and that the rotor/abs/whatever else doesn't become damaged from the excessive heat build up.

So, call it $40 piece of mind.

[alijonny]

kobalt said:

Rear rotors are not prone to wear/warp - it is unlikely they require replacement. Pads however can (and eventually will) wear down. This is a relativley simple job and you can get good pads for about $30 - 40. I recommend it as a DIY project. I will be changing my rear pads shortly (when it gets a bit warmer) and will take pictures.

my rear rotors are warped. this is from using the parking brake and letting the car sit. rust gets embedded at the edge of the pad and rotor and causes a high spot. rotors are $22, pads are $35 for me, so no big deal.

[kobalt]

It is true - letting the car sit with the parking brake engaged can be detrimental to the rear rotors. But a quick, sure way to warp them is to drive with the parking brake engaged

[stevensolds]

Rotors for $22....what kind of rotors are you getting? WalMart brand?

how bout these for $200? you will stop on a dime

[kobalt]

I am sorry to inform you but drilled rotors impede braking performance on an otherwise stock Aurora brake setup. Blank rotors have more surface area which = more friction and therefore better stopping power. Cheapo blanks are a better choice and will win everytime against drilled ones.

[Aurora40]

kobalt said:

I am sorry to inform you but drilled rotors impede braking performance on an otherwise stock Aurora brake setup. Blank rotors have more surface area which = more friction and therefore better stopping power. Cheapo blanks are a better choice and will win everytime against drilled ones.

Well the idea behind drilled or slotted is that gasses build up under the pad, thus it actually isn't making very much contact with the rotor, in spite of the greater surface area of the rotor.

I've no idea how true that is, but to your closing statement I would say rotors of a quality material and quality construction process will win every time in regards to braking ability, rotor life, and resistance to warping and overheating over cheapo rotors.

To me, brakes and tires are the two places to not cheap out on...

[Letitroll98]

Drilled rotors really weaken the rotor making it very subject to cracking and warping. The Brembo's in slotted or dimpled would be a better choice for stock Auroras (or Powerslot, EBC, etc.). Yes 40man, the idea is that gasses are vented by any of these methods. The brakes also heat up faster with slotted or dimpled rotors, yet also resist fade better. They also improve wet weather braking by reducing hydroplanning of the pads on the rotor surface.

Crossdrilling was used for racing and autocrossing with high temp pads like EBC Reds (not Redstuff Ceramic) that need to reach high temps to work properly. And then only if the interior venting is spiraled outward to match the drill points (like Brembo's). Most IRL and TransAm series teams are moving away from crossdrilling because of fatigue failures.

Now hot off the press is a new pad from EBC, Redstuff Ceramic. Very different from the old Redstuff semi-racing metallic pads, these are supposed to be very rotor friendly, totally fade resistant even from repeated 100+mph stops, works at street temps and throw less dust than other high performance pads. The review (a Subie autocrosser) seemed to indicate that they were about 1/10th as dusty as his Porterfield racing pads or Hawk pads, etc. Very promising.

www.subiegalracing.com/sgracing/news/rally%20reports/ebc_redstuff_ceramic_review.htm