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Post by adfdsfdwefsfd on May 6, 2011 16:33:21 GMT -6
The shop told me my front brakes are 90% left, rear are 20% left and rear rotors are rusty, probably need brake service soon. How hard is it to replace rear brake pad/rotor? I am losing confidence in my own work. Every time. I work on my car, I break something or lose some tools in the car.... The most complicated work I've done(barely) is removing the seat......... The accessory belt tensioner needs to be replaced and I don't think I can do it...... Shop quotes for $75... Do I need special tools to bleed braking fluid, replace pad and rotor? How long it may take for the first time?..... I would like to pay the shop $100 for labor if they can get all these jobs done...... About choosing pad and rotor, is ACDelco still a better choice? Or I can just pick up the cheapest from rockauto or advanceauto..
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Post by robaurora01 on May 6, 2011 16:40:52 GMT -6
if your changing your pads and rotors you won't need a brake bleeder however you will need a special tool to put the caliper back in as the piston has a special design that has two hooks. www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00915218000P?prdNo=2&blockNo=2&blockType=G2something like this and for pads and rotors well get any rotors but for pads whatever you do don't buy metallic buy ceramics if you can as their not too bad price but metallic or I should say "lightning brand" are terrible and will hurt your car more then anything esle. your biggest issue is that tool that you will need to do the job other then that its very easy and straight forward
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Post by robaurora01 on May 6, 2011 16:42:09 GMT -6
and if its your first time doing the rear brakes on the ground id say an hour and half roughly maybe slightly more but not much its very easy. for someone like me I can do all 4 of my brakes and rotors in 45 minutes and thats with me talking away like I always do to someone
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Post by adfdsfdwefsfd on May 6, 2011 20:22:08 GMT -6
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Post by adfdsfdwefsfd on May 6, 2011 21:15:35 GMT -6
A couple pics from tonight's work, nothing done, just trying to figure out how much work im capable of doing.... Rear Wheel Removal Is the shock/strut still alright? Whats the name of that bar going to the middle of the car? What's that sensor for? rusty rotor Does it need to be replaced? I don't know what the minimum width is, seems to me that it's still thick enough to stop bullets, just rusty at non-contacting area close look How to determine brake pad 20% left? Brake hydraulic fluid hose, I hope im not mistaking... bolts to remove caliper So this is the bleed valve? What size of clear tubing do I need? I returned all tubing I bought from AAP cuz they were all too big Mud... Some arm? For FWD it's not called control arm in the rear I guess Rusty exhaust pipe fuel tank idk what it is Walmart Jack and AAP jack stand The jack won't go very high, it's kinda hard to put the wheel back in because the height is not enough(tire still touches ground). Did I jack it up at the wrong position (in front of rear wheel)? Rusty? Some spray liquid may help? Do I need to replace anything? Wheel
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Post by ntrenn on May 6, 2011 22:58:20 GMT -6
Brand of brake pad is up to your discretion and the depth of your pockets. I generally use whatever good brand name has a decent price. You won't notice much difference on the rear, regardless of what brand pad you use. As far as the condition of the rotors - they look normal. No deep grooves. I would just swap pads and go on - no turning, no de-rusting. If you want to do it 'right', get them turned, but be warned that your brake wear will suffer because nobody does a 'spec' brake rotor turn that I have found.
Rotors are to be turned to a TIR, thickness variation, and most importantly, a surface roughness. I have yet to find a shop (that I can afford) that can do all 3.
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Post by adfdsfdwefsfd on May 6, 2011 23:58:12 GMT -6
So most of the time rotor just gets replaced if needed? some rotors are just $13, I am pretty sure labor cost to work on the old rotor costs more than that. Btw is it possible to get a conclusion that the brake pad is 20% left? I don't see a way to determine brake life.
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Post by robaurora01 on May 7, 2011 4:51:47 GMT -6
a c-clamp will not work thats why you need that tool. and your brake pads are at about 3mm which is one good shot hard on the brakes and your down to almost metal on metal.
there might be cheaper ones out there for the tools but I forget which size it is needed but a c-clamp will not work at all the piston needs to be turned not pushed in if you push it in you ruin your caliper
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Post by adfdsfdwefsfd on May 7, 2011 10:15:01 GMT -6
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Post by roara on May 7, 2011 13:00:47 GMT -6
First of all, on the jack height put a piece of 2x4 on top. That will give you a little more lift and it will spread out the force of direct contact to frame. The front brakes are very easy. With a c-clamp you push the piston back in to the caliper with the old pads on, then remove two bolts and the caliper can be pulled off the rotor (with brake line still attached) but don't let it hang on the line. Pop the pads out, pop the new ones in and reassemble. On the rears you need to screw in the piston with that Tekton type cube tool. Find out which side of the cube fits in the notches of the piston. Make sure to pull a little brake from the reservoir before pushing in the pistons. This is an abbreviated explanation btw. I just happen to have old and new rear pads to show the depth of the pads. That "cotter pin" shaped hook actually starts to make contact with the rotor as the pads wear down making a squeaking sound as a warning that they are getting low. If you feel comfortable tackling the pads, go for it. I wouldn't worry about flushing brake fluid etc unless you have an experienced helper with you. Good luck!
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Post by robaurora01 on May 7, 2011 13:28:54 GMT -6
your manual is probably showing you the fronts as the rears I know as a fact 1st gen and 2nd gen have both the twist type pistons
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Post by adfdsfdwefsfd on May 7, 2011 19:36:33 GMT -6
Thanks. I find a video on utube about that cube.
It seems it's not that hard. How hard is it to take master cylinder off and bench bleed it, then bleed every caliper? I am just trying to get rid of old dirty brake fluid. It seems bleeding is pretty easy job as long as master cylinder is not involved. Btw what size of tube do I need to bleed the calipers?
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Post by adfdsfdwefsfd on May 7, 2011 19:42:40 GMT -6
Btw do i need to do anything about rusty brake parts(rotor, caliper, hose connectors, everything around there looks pretty rusted....)?
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Post by robaurora01 on May 8, 2011 7:41:47 GMT -6
just clean it as best as you can but I can tell you this ull need dieelectric grease and a way to clean your slider pins so your pads wear evenly and you don't ruin your caliper that way.
and you don't need to bleed the system, if you just bleed that one side its not going to work properly and you will probably have air in the system ( plus you need someone esle or a tool to do it )
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Post by dynamic1964 on May 8, 2011 14:58:24 GMT -6
Be careful not to injuring the seal. Moisture and water can create rust and the pistons in the caliper can stuck in worse case. I use WD40 or similar inside the seal before I press in the pistons. Brake fluid has no rust preventive effect.
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RCA1186
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Rob
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Post by RCA1186 on May 8, 2011 15:12:25 GMT -6
Yes you do need the tool for the back, you can use the cube tool, or you can rent a tool from Autozone (its a $50 deposit but you get it back when the tool is returned) so in other words, for free
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Post by adfdsfdwefsfd on May 14, 2011 13:57:21 GMT -6
Where is the seal located? I've seen a threat about brake got stuck because of seal but I have no idea where it is... There are so many choices for brake pads/rotors. It seems OE Pad Material Is Semi-Metallic, but I dont see any dust on my pad at all...
ACDELCO Part # 17D508C {#88909658} Riveted PAD KIT,RR DISC BRK DURASTOP CERAMIC; 4 DOORS $49.89
Is this a good choice?
Btw how to clean rotors? I don't think I should use wire brush...
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Post by dynamic1964 on May 15, 2011 15:43:01 GMT -6
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Post by robaurora01 on May 16, 2011 18:26:29 GMT -6
your not putting new rotors on? you should always buy new rotors ( and don't worry about the seal on the rear calipers they are twist ones that stop before you can ruin the seal )
with new rotors you clean them with brake clean with old rotors if your putting new pads on you should throw them in the metal bin
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RCA1186
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Rob
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Post by RCA1186 on May 18, 2011 8:26:44 GMT -6
You don't have to replace rotors every time you change your pads, only if they are gouged or worn too thin, the minimum thickness is listed on the side of the rotor usually. You can even have a machine shop re-surface the old ones (although not sure how much it would cost, might be better just to get new ones if the cost is close). Throwing away a rotor that is perfectly fine is like throwing away money.
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Post by robaurora01 on May 18, 2011 13:29:18 GMT -6
^^^^ that is a matter of opinion I never change a set of pads without changing my rotors its just a waste of time ull be back in it in 6 months of less rotors are always cheap and don't cost much. the only time I wouldn't replace rotors is if they were cross drilled and slotted unless they were ruined
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Post by ntrenn on May 18, 2011 19:35:57 GMT -6
Rob and rca both have valid points. I have never had to re-do my brakes in 6 months when I didn't change the rotors or turn the drums, but it's truly personal opinion and up to you. Easy to replace rotors. If the rotors are cheap - about the same price as turning.
The 'seals' you need to be concerned with are the ones that are on the sliding pins. They can get full of gunk and keep the caliper from floating. Not sure, but I recall a no-lube callout on those seals/pins by GM.
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Post by adfdsfdwefsfd on May 19, 2011 0:28:00 GMT -6
Rotors cost more than pads cuz they don't come in pairs...... lol TSB says corrosion is not a big deal, but my rotor is pretty rusted and the shop recommended replacement(they sure do....) Brake PadRelated Parts This is the pad Im going to order RAYBESTOS Part # PGD508QS 1.620" X 4.240" (Rebate/Promotion Available! See Promotions & Rebates Page for Details.) (Only 1 Remaining) Rear; Ceramic; Originally Equipped With Semi-Metallic
rotor choices: 1.RAYBESTOS Part # 56241R Professional Grade; Outside Diameter 11.06" / 5 Bolt Holes 2.ACDELCO Part # 18A488A {#19241857} ROTOR,RR BRK [US vehicles]; ACDELCO ADVANTAGE; 4 DOORS 3.CENTRIC Part # 12062045 Premium Rotor-Preferred
I've seen a lot of ppl like Centric rotor+ RAYBESTOS pads, not sure why Centric rotors are so good(costs a bit more than ACDelco)
I've ordered TEKTON by MIT 5807 5-in-1 3/8-Inch Drive Disc Brake Piston Retractor and Alltrade 940759 Powerbuilt Digital Torque Adaptor for 1/2-Inch Driver (just learned I need torque wrench for lug nuts...). What else do I need? high temperature silicon grease? brake dampening compound?
What tool do I need to bleed the brake system? What size of tube?(everytime I buy tube I end up return all of em cuz they are not the right size)
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Post by robaurora01 on May 19, 2011 13:30:25 GMT -6
ybrake dampening compound is not needed its a personal preference thing, you won't need to bleed your system
and as for rotors I buy the cheapest ones myself unless im going cross drilled and slotted, pads is what matters the most
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RCA1186
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Rob
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Post by RCA1186 on May 19, 2011 13:47:51 GMT -6
Rotors don't come in pairs? Lol I got cheap rotors too, but after seeing the othe rmember on here (whose rotor broke apart) I'm starting to think twice about getting cheaper one
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Post by oldwino on May 19, 2011 14:07:46 GMT -6
I have gone thru several sets of pads on the same pair of rotors. Unless they're warped or you've worn the pads to the point of scarring the rotors or they're under the minimum thickness, you're wasting your money. I've gotten rotors turned for about $12 each at my local S&S Tire. A lot cheaper then $25+ each for new ones. There comes a point where they need to be replaced, but I wouldn't replace them just for the sake of replacing them. Also, you get what you pay for. If you're going to buy new ones, get the higher quality ones. They'll probably last longer and be more resistant to warping due to heat and thus won't need to be replaced as often. My $.02.
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RCA1186
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Rob
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Post by RCA1186 on May 19, 2011 14:20:32 GMT -6
^agreed
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Post by robaurora01 on May 19, 2011 14:22:39 GMT -6
with my aurora rotors were $20 each for fronts and $15 for rears. I bought my cross drilled and slotted for $30 fronts and 25$ rear....I love working in garages
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Post by tipsymcstager on May 19, 2011 15:58:48 GMT -6
X2. them rotors look fine for the most part! and seem to have never been turned, just have them cut for about 12-15 bucks!
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Post by adfdsfdwefsfd on May 19, 2011 18:39:42 GMT -6
Do I need to measure rotor runout with a dial indicator? ...expensive tools..........
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