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Post by brendan127 on Nov 23, 2012 9:00:44 GMT -6
Okay I'm going to start off with the easiest one, being my Low Coolant Level light, there isn't low coolant, they just replaced the reservoir, shouldn't that have made the light go away?
Check Engine Light Is this light because of the low coolant level light? I'll have to check the code once I get home Sunday.
Serv Stability System This is the only traction system light that is on, from what I read its most likely steering wheel position sensor, would this be correct?
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Paulaurora
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Post by Paulaurora on Nov 23, 2012 9:26:17 GMT -6
if you still have an issue with Low Coolant Level light after changing the reservoir the plug might be bad or faulty reservoir . check engine light is not same as low coolant you need to get it scanned. and 99% you do need to change wheel position sensor.
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Post by brendan127 on Nov 23, 2012 9:29:48 GMT -6
if you still have an issue with Low Coolant Level light after changing the reservoir the plug might be bad or faulty reservoir . check engine light is not same as low coolant you need to get it scanned. and 99% you do need to change wheel position sensor. Alright I'll scan it when I can. How could the reservoir be bad if it is brand new? And okay, at least the steering wheel sensor is a cheap fix.
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Post by ntrenn on Nov 23, 2012 10:34:20 GMT -6
I've found you have to overfill the coolant on my car to keep the low coolant light at bay. About a inch higher than the full cold mark does the trick for me. Service stability has usually been the steering wheel sensor. Stability active is usually a wheel speed sensor.
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Post by brendan127 on Nov 23, 2012 12:02:47 GMT -6
I've found you have to overfill the coolant on my car to keep the low coolant light at bay. About a inch higher than the full cold mark does the trick for me. Service stability has usually been the steering wheel sensor. Stability active is usually a wheel speed sensor. Alright, I'll try adding coolant.
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bobsblue95
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Post by bobsblue95 on Nov 23, 2012 12:37:48 GMT -6
Seems like my float was a little "sticky" for a few days when I installed a new tank. Very slim possibility that the sensor is bad.
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tigger
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Post by tigger on Nov 23, 2012 21:14:08 GMT -6
You said "they" just replaced the reservoir. Make sure they didn't screw up the connector and that it is indeed connected.
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Post by brendan127 on Nov 25, 2012 21:33:06 GMT -6
P0418 P0741 P1415 P1860
Is p0741 the reason I'm at 2100 rpm when going 60? If so I'm going to have to talk with the guy who sold me the car.
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Post by brendan127 on Nov 25, 2012 23:41:35 GMT -6
Alright guys, so here is an update. Took the car out for a little lock up test, going 55 mph i pressed down the brake a little, and the rpms barely went up at all, so if there's something wrong the sensor is bad most likely. Another thing is the CEL didn't come back on my drive, and when I was going I put it from D into 3 and the rpm's went up, so does this mean OD is working?
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Paulaurora
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Post by Paulaurora on Nov 26, 2012 7:51:47 GMT -6
p0741 bad sensor or you need to rebuild the Trans since you have 2 codes for trans.Unless there is wire issue to pcm.and looks like you need 2nd air system rebuild too . everything to fix might run for u up to 4000$
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Post by ntrenn on Nov 26, 2012 8:22:29 GMT -6
So...the P0741 is a high slip in the torque converter. Possible that it's just a little weak on the lockup clutch. The 1860 is an electrical problem in the circuit. Possible that it's an intermittent problem. If you have to change the LU solenoid, it's a pull the trans job, so quite expensive. Bet money that the PO knew there was an issue and that's why he unloaded the car. It may be as simple as a pin in the harness not making good contact - some have had that issue.
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Post by brendan127 on Nov 26, 2012 10:04:49 GMT -6
p0741 bad sensor or you need to rebuild the Trans since you have 2 codes for trans.Unless there is wire issue to pcm.and looks like you need 2nd air system rebuild too . everything to fix might run for u up to 4000$ Well seeing as my trans seems to be working fine, I'm not going to spend $4k on it. On top of that i feel like its a bad sensor. Why do I need the 2nd air system? All I could tell is that it does something with the exhaust.
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Post by ntrenn on Nov 26, 2012 10:17:25 GMT -6
Sec air system will run forever with the code like that and since you don't have emissions any more, just fix it at your leisure. Normal flat road engine speed at 60 mph is 2000 rpm +/- about 30. If that slip gets out of range, the computer throws the code. With the extra electrical code, it sounds like your problem is electrical not mechanical. But...if you get low LU clutch apply, the extra slip will eventually trash the whole transmission when it kills the LU clutch and then the converter. If you get no LU apply, you'll just be running in converter mode which is just poor fuel economy. Caught early, it can be as cheap as $1500 or so. Later can run you the 4Gs that paul's talking about. Get a good electrical diagnosis going and you'll know more....We'll get you the P1860 code pages when you are ready.
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Post by brendan127 on Nov 26, 2012 10:57:09 GMT -6
Sec air system will run forever with the code like that and since you don't have emissions any more, just fix it at your leisure. Normal flat road engine speed at 60 mph is 2000 rpm +/- about 30. If that slip gets out of range, the computer throws the code. With the extra electrical code, it sounds like your problem is electrical not mechanical. But...if you get low LU clutch apply, the extra slip will eventually trash the whole transmission when it kills the LU clutch and then the converter. If you get no LU apply, you'll just be running in converter mode which is just poor fuel economy. Caught early, it can be as cheap as $1500 or so. Later can run you the 4Gs that paul's talking about. Get a good electrical diagnosis going and you'll know more....We'll get you the P1860 code pages when you are ready. Alright. The dealer is offering me a 15k warranty for 300, it covers engine trans and electrical. He said once I get it the first thing that will happen is they will come to me and try servicing the trans with Lucas oil trans additive, and that's clearly not going to fix the problem. Then if that doesn't work then it goes to be fixed. Do you guys think I should get the warranty? It'll probably save me a bunch of money.
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Paulaurora
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Post by Paulaurora on Nov 26, 2012 13:36:46 GMT -6
the 4k i was talking about including the Air system fix as well and if you don't want ur CAT die early that will cost more to replace in long run that fixing the system now. You can get warranty but read the fine print it might not cover everything on a trans or engine or they might say u need to fix existing problems first before we can fix other things.
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Post by brendan127 on Nov 26, 2012 17:33:20 GMT -6
the 4k i was talking about including the Air system fix as well and if you don't want ur CAT die early that will cost more to replace in long run that fixing the system now. You can get warranty but read the fine print it might not cover everything on a trans or engine or they might say u need to fix existing problems first before we can fix other things. Yeah, that's what I'm worried about, but in that case shouldn't the dealer be held responsible for selling me a car with a $1500 issue? And I'm not going to fix the 2nd air system because I can get a new cat for $50.. The car is going to have to be able to survive the next 2 weeks, because I can't take it to a shop right now, I have 2 jobs and college. I also ran into a problem with the fog lights, first is I tried removing one of the rear ones, and first what size is that bulb? and second the bulb fell of into the lamp casing as I was pulling it out is there any easy way I can get it out?. My second problem is I thought my front fog lights were burnt out, but I replaced one of them and it still didn't come on. I also checked the fuse it was good, WHATS UP??
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Post by robaurora01 on Nov 26, 2012 17:43:09 GMT -6
Prob needs a new pig tail for your fog light bulb. Go into the 2g kaintenance top of stickies it will give you all bulb numbers needed
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Paulaurora
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Post by Paulaurora on Nov 26, 2012 19:57:33 GMT -6
i dont think u can replace a cat for 50$ plus there is 2 of them but its up to you. the back fog lights you need to remove the one screw on back than than use like a flat screw driver to help to push the fog light out i had same issue when some ppl use wrong bulbs and they fell down.Front fog lights check the connectors make sure the voltage going there.
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Post by brendan127 on Nov 26, 2012 20:45:33 GMT -6
i dont think u can replace a cat for 50$ plus there is 2 of them but its up to you. the back fog lights you need to remove the one screw on back than than use like a flat screw driver to help to push the fog light out i had same issue when some ppl use wrong bulbs and they fell down.Front fog lights check the connectors make sure the voltage going there. I didn't say I could replace it for $50, I said I can get one for $50 then pay a shop to put it on. My car appears to only have 1 cat?? Lol. I am not worried about cat's anyways, no one around here checks for emissions. For the rear fog lights I don't see any screws?? It's just a lens, or is the screw behind the bumper? If so that's going to be a PITA. I'll check those fogs for voltage later. WISH IT WAS WARM OUTSIDE.
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Paulaurora
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Post by Paulaurora on Nov 26, 2012 21:18:47 GMT -6
ye the screw on each one is behind the bumper you cant really see it but u can feel it just use a wrench to remove it.
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Post by robaurora01 on Nov 27, 2012 17:18:45 GMT -6
A burned out cat can apperently destroy the tranny if left too long gone
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Post by brendan127 on Nov 27, 2012 20:50:34 GMT -6
A burned out cat can apperently destroy the tranny if left too long gone My cat is good though? Lol. Oh and you guys never told me what my last engine code is, you told me p0418, p0741, and p1860.
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Paulaurora
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Post by Paulaurora on Nov 27, 2012 21:31:24 GMT -6
DTC P1415 Secondary Air Injection (AIR) System Bank 1 Circuit Description
An AIR Pump is used on this vehicle to lower tail pipe emissions on start-up. The VCM supplies a ground to the AIR Pump Relay in order to energize the AIR Pump and the AIR Solenoid.
The VCM will run a test using the HO2S voltages to diagnose the AIR System.
During this test the VCM will activate the AIR Pump during closed loop operation. When the AIR System is activated, the VCM will monitor the HO2S voltages and short term fuel trim values for both banks of the engine. If the AIR System is operating properly, the HO2S voltages should go low and the short term fuel trim should go high.
The VCM checks that the HO2S voltages return to above a rich threshold when the AIR Pump is disabled.
If the VCM determines that the HO2S voltages for both banks did not respond as expected during the tests, DTC P0410 will set. If only one sensor responded, the VCM will set either a DTC P1415 or P1416 to indicate on which bank the AIR System is inoperative.
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Post by brendan127 on Nov 28, 2012 14:37:33 GMT -6
How do I check whether I have a 4t80e or 4t65e? I've got a friend with a 4t65e with 80k on it. Can a 4t65e replace a 4t80e?
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Post by danjc on Nov 28, 2012 15:09:55 GMT -6
The 4.0 has the 4t80E. Not interchangeable. Although I am sure someone on here has successfully done it Dan
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Paulaurora
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Post by Paulaurora on Nov 28, 2012 18:39:58 GMT -6
you can put 4t65e if you change the engine as well to 3.5:)
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Post by brendan127 on Nov 28, 2012 18:54:48 GMT -6
I like my V8 lol.
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Post by brendan127 on Nov 29, 2012 15:53:32 GMT -6
How do you guys get these full descriptions for the codes? It'd be nice if I had that resource lol.
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Post by robaurora01 on Nov 29, 2012 16:48:25 GMT -6
Google will tell ya
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Post by brendan127 on Nov 29, 2012 17:15:58 GMT -6
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