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Post by dietz4ibanez on Oct 26, 2014 22:04:10 GMT -6
On my 2001 Olds Aurora with the 3.5 v6...
Here are the codes that I am getting.
P0171- Bank 1 system too lean
P0300- Random/Multiple Misfires
P0131- O2 Sensor Circuit low Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0137- " " " Sensor 2)
P0171- Bank 1 System too lean
The car has 165k miles on it now and when I drive it the first time of the day it is real slow, loss of power and is hard to accelerate. Engine light flashes saying "fix me now" and then the car drives fine the rest of the day!
Thanks
Brian
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Post by Toronado3800 on Oct 26, 2014 23:35:31 GMT -6
What is your theory on why you need a converter?
With my 97 it was all about a coil pack going bad. Does yours have coil packs or any way you can test a coil?
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Post by dietz4ibanez on Oct 27, 2014 9:19:22 GMT -6
What is your theory on why you need a converter? With my 97 it was all about a coil pack going bad. Does yours have coil packs or any way you can test a coil? I can test the coil pack and it probably wouldn't hurt to change plugs and wires. I figured it was leaning towards converter because of the bank 1 Sensor 1 and 2 low voltage. If it was coil back or anything above the engine I thought I would see specific cylinder codes a long with P0300. Sent from my XT1080 using proboards |
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Post by awehlage on Oct 27, 2014 21:05:24 GMT -6
I'm guessing you might have a vacuum leak. I had lean codes, a random misfire and O2 sensors that were wacko. I had a bad intake plenum gasket and a split in the PCV to manifold tube boot.
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Post by dietz4ibanez on Oct 28, 2014 16:08:04 GMT -6
I'm guessing you might have a vacuum leak. I had lean codes, a random misfire and O2 sensors that were wacko. I had a bad intake plenum gasket and a split in the PCV to manifold tube boot. Did you do any testing to come to this conclusion or did you just replace the plenum/tube and get lucky? |
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Post by awehlage on Oct 28, 2014 17:07:05 GMT -6
Well I sprayed carb cleaner all over the intake plenum (manifold) and took it to get diagnosed. I am sure when they pulled the intake they saw the plenum gasket was crushed and worn and the PCV dirty air tube boot had a 1" split (it's only 1.5" long).
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Post by dietz4ibanez on Oct 28, 2014 17:30:39 GMT -6
Well I sprayed carb cleaner all over the intake plenum (manifold) and took it to get diagnosed. I am sure when they pulled the intake they saw the plenum gasket was crushed and worn and the PCV dirty air tube boot had a 1" split (it's only 1.5" long). I just found some threads through this site that led me to a Cadillac site. If you spray carb or brake cleaner on the plenum/intake when the car is running, you will either hear a change in idle or the fluid/air being sucked into the intake through holes in the plenum. This seems to be a very common issue with these engines and the 4.0. |
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Post by genedjr on Oct 29, 2014 14:04:28 GMT -6
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Post by RCSRGREAT on Oct 29, 2014 14:40:03 GMT -6
Doubt it's the converter.
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Post by dietz4ibanez on Oct 29, 2014 19:16:44 GMT -6
I appreciate it! Looks like you have been chasing around trying to find the fix and in the meantime you have replaced almost everything that has to do with firing the engine! Hopefully in the next week it will remain codeless and run like a new car. *** Tonight I searched for a possibly vacuum leak. I will be inspecting the PCV tube but also had a questions about the EGR tube. Can a vacuum leak happen at the tube (EGR Tube) that goes from the block to the AI/TB? I am assuming not but that tube though in tact seems to slink back and forth from where it is clamped. I want to exhaust all resources for a possible vacuum leak before I start to replace parts. Like you suggested, Gene. Looks like a fuel pressure regulator/fuel filter would be a good place to start. |
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Post by awehlage on Oct 29, 2014 19:54:41 GMT -6
If you are going to start with replacing parts I would start with FPR first. It's an easy fix and relatively inexpensive. I'd go with ACDelco brand only.
Fuel filter would be next but if you have the means check fuel pressure at the rail with a mechanical gauge. Make sure it's within OEM specs first.
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Post by dietz4ibanez on Oct 29, 2014 20:41:32 GMT -6
It would make sense that it could be the culprit with the Lean codes. I did investigate and see some oil where the intake touches the top end. I will investigate that to see if fluid get's sucked in while the engine is running.
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Post by genedjr on Oct 30, 2014 11:12:21 GMT -6
Since you are pulling codes, what are you using? Can you view live data? Once I noticed that the O2 sensors were not bouncing between .1v and .9v I was fairly sure the FPR was to blame, and it was.
It's amazing what you notice if you have 2 cars OBD2 capable. I used my MDX (125K+ miles) as the "working" model and compared readings.
...gene
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Post by dietz4ibanez on Mar 28, 2015 15:59:06 GMT -6
I actually got a new mactools scanner that I haven't see for sale anywhere but on a Mac tool truck. It's just a scanner that get's plugged into the obdII and you view it through bluetooth on your smart phone. All these codes and it said the problem was the Mass Air Flow sensor, BAAAM... Engine light has been off and passed inspection about 2000 miles ago. This scan tool was $200 but has saved the stupid guessing game of what to replace next. We used it on the transmission on Earl(96 Chevy Silverado ext cab 2wd 350 w/400k miles). We messed with it some as the transmission was only giving us 2 & 3 gears. It told us to replace a sensor in the transimission and now all 4 gears are in use. We've used it on a few other cars too.
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