Post by scottyaurorav8 on Dec 5, 2014 13:06:26 GMT -6
So today I tackeled the rear valve cover removal on my 4.0. First and foremost, never again LOL. I give credit to anyone who has done this easily. However, I'm no mechanic.
This procedure will hopefully help someone who wishes to try it, and this procedure is, in my opinion, what worked best. Maybe there is a better procedure out there. This also saved me a $498 quote from the local mechanic shop
Okay, I didn't think I'd have to, but remove the fuel rail. It will help with removing the cover, b.c the little fuel canister on the side won't be in the way and you won't risk breaking it. I found out after the fact, so do this first. Make sure you have spare injector o- rings.( put vasoline on them when installing) Advanced sells felpro ones for like $5. They are excellent! Bleed the line before removal and you will need the fuel line removal tool. Pull the fuel rail off one side at a time. Be gentle. I used a pry bar and used the intake manifold as leverage. Use the strong part of the fuel rail to pry on. I gave it increased pressure straight up until it popped out. Don't just pry it/ jolt it hard.
Next you need to remove the air valve behind the cover...against the firewall. What a PITA. I used a led lighted extension mirror to see the two screws all the way down there on the tube and it helped line up a 10mm socket with swivel to the screws. I had long 12 and 18" extensions too... Worked good. That did the trick. Then remove the bracket on the valve cover, vacuum lines and the whole thing as one will come off.
Next, there was no way I could get the rear bolts off the cover from up top, so I found it easiest to go from underneath. I jacked the car up and used a 10mm ratcheting wrench for the two passenger side valve cover bolts. Then from the top, I used that calvin 90 degree socket adapter bit they sell at advanced, with a 10mm socket attached and got that one off. The one on the end, I used a socket with extension finagling it through the wiring harness. Same for the one on the very side.
Now I got the top ones towards the intake manifold with no problem.
Next I removed the coil pack (4 bolts) Now lift the coil up and its a PITA to get out b.c the firewall is right there plus those coolant hoses, a/c lines or whatever. A little force will be needed to pass it. I also used a pry bar gently against the lines which helped. Now comes the fun part. Removing the cover. Remove the boots carefully. There's 4. Now the cover will lift off the head easy, but then you really need to move the wire harness around to get this sucker off completely. It will without a doubt scrape the hoses behind it, but it will come off. Make sure to clean the surface of the heads after and then i used a felpro gasket kit for $68. Its awesome! Everything is included in the kit. Good quality. IMO better than OEM. I haven't done the front yet so I will attempt this down the road. This process took me a long time. I'm embarrassed to even tell you guys how long but to save the money for a shop its worth it for me ( broke...LOL). But hopefully this helps someone who wants to give it a whirl and doesn't know where to start.
My car is up on stands right now and i won't put this back together until next week, b.c it was the best time to get my cover powder coated nice and black, plus change the oxygen sensor to the exhaust manifold( waiting for part) but obviously all you need to do is reverse the order. This will not be fun...but im hopeful all will go well. Thank god for vacation time haha!
This procedure will hopefully help someone who wishes to try it, and this procedure is, in my opinion, what worked best. Maybe there is a better procedure out there. This also saved me a $498 quote from the local mechanic shop
Okay, I didn't think I'd have to, but remove the fuel rail. It will help with removing the cover, b.c the little fuel canister on the side won't be in the way and you won't risk breaking it. I found out after the fact, so do this first. Make sure you have spare injector o- rings.( put vasoline on them when installing) Advanced sells felpro ones for like $5. They are excellent! Bleed the line before removal and you will need the fuel line removal tool. Pull the fuel rail off one side at a time. Be gentle. I used a pry bar and used the intake manifold as leverage. Use the strong part of the fuel rail to pry on. I gave it increased pressure straight up until it popped out. Don't just pry it/ jolt it hard.
Next you need to remove the air valve behind the cover...against the firewall. What a PITA. I used a led lighted extension mirror to see the two screws all the way down there on the tube and it helped line up a 10mm socket with swivel to the screws. I had long 12 and 18" extensions too... Worked good. That did the trick. Then remove the bracket on the valve cover, vacuum lines and the whole thing as one will come off.
Next, there was no way I could get the rear bolts off the cover from up top, so I found it easiest to go from underneath. I jacked the car up and used a 10mm ratcheting wrench for the two passenger side valve cover bolts. Then from the top, I used that calvin 90 degree socket adapter bit they sell at advanced, with a 10mm socket attached and got that one off. The one on the end, I used a socket with extension finagling it through the wiring harness. Same for the one on the very side.
Now I got the top ones towards the intake manifold with no problem.
Next I removed the coil pack (4 bolts) Now lift the coil up and its a PITA to get out b.c the firewall is right there plus those coolant hoses, a/c lines or whatever. A little force will be needed to pass it. I also used a pry bar gently against the lines which helped. Now comes the fun part. Removing the cover. Remove the boots carefully. There's 4. Now the cover will lift off the head easy, but then you really need to move the wire harness around to get this sucker off completely. It will without a doubt scrape the hoses behind it, but it will come off. Make sure to clean the surface of the heads after and then i used a felpro gasket kit for $68. Its awesome! Everything is included in the kit. Good quality. IMO better than OEM. I haven't done the front yet so I will attempt this down the road. This process took me a long time. I'm embarrassed to even tell you guys how long but to save the money for a shop its worth it for me ( broke...LOL). But hopefully this helps someone who wants to give it a whirl and doesn't know where to start.
My car is up on stands right now and i won't put this back together until next week, b.c it was the best time to get my cover powder coated nice and black, plus change the oxygen sensor to the exhaust manifold( waiting for part) but obviously all you need to do is reverse the order. This will not be fun...but im hopeful all will go well. Thank god for vacation time haha!
