Aurora 2003 - catching up on maintenance

[gdouaire]

Just bought a 2003 Aurora. It has 100,000 miles on it. I've bought the shop manual, started reading the owners manual and reading a lot of stuff here and elsewhere on the Internet.

So far, I see these things I might want to do, not knowing what was done on the car previoulsy by the former owner:

1) short term: New spark plugs

2) short term: Have the serpentine belt changed

3) mid term (once winter is over): "preventive maintenance" (whatever that means -- cleaning the contacts, changing the part, --) of the crankshaft sensor, which is a part that I have read can be troublesome on the car.

4) mid term (once winter is over): "preventive maintenance" of the transmission selenoid contacts and other contacts on the engine. - another thing I have read that is troublesome on the car.

5) mid term (once winter is over): Transmission oil change.

And then, after that, it will be other 'improvements' on the car -

a) maybe a "open air intake" on the engine to get that V-8 intake growl
b) trunk pulldown (that would be a custom fit).
c) 3.5mm audio jack add-on.
d) investigating what reasonable modifications can be done to get better milleage
e) investigating what slotted/driller brake rotors, and other braking improvements, etc.


Right now, I'm rebuilding a Buick V-6 231 for another project I have underway, but next winter, I'd like to have a spare Aurora 4.0 V-8 in my basement and start working on it. But that's another topic

[gdouaire]

Somewhere between point 2) and 3) --- fix the rear driver side window. Something broken, window stays shut.

[gdouaire]

And an oil treatment prior to next winter.

[Paulaurora]

If the window doesn't move common problem is the motor. It is possible can be windows switch but most likely not.

[gdouaire]

Window does not move, but I hear the motor spinning. Sounds like something broken.

[Paulaurora]

well if u do hear the motor spins but nothing moves then you need a new window regulator. You can get one at rockauto.com under the market place you can find a coupon code for them as well and you have to put the coupon code where it saying how you hear about us.

[tigger]

^Yep, only my driver's window regulator is original, all of the other three have failed at least once, lol!

[Randy T.]

Coolant crossover gaskets are bad.

[sall]

Front hydraulic engine mount should probably be replaced. Look in the performance stickies for big brake upgrade info!

[gdouaire]

Jan 12, 2015 7:33:37 GMT -6 Randy T. said:

Coolant crossover gaskets are bad.

Bad in what way? They often leak or they're difficult to service or both?

[tigger]

Jan 12, 2015 17:05:41 GMT -6 gdouaire said:

Jan 12, 2015 7:33:37 GMT -6 Randy T. said:

Coolant crossover gaskets are bad.

Bad in what way? They often leak or they're difficult to service or both?

Both.

[gdouaire]

I own a couple of older cars, and for me, owning a car means getting the service manuals. This is the first step after getting the old car. Especially for a 1981 Cadillac with a V-8-6-4 engine, this is a COMPLICATED car.

I was surprised today when I told the security at the job that I got a new car -- simply said "Oldsmobile" and the guy said - "we know you are into older cars, if I see an unknown older car in the parking, I will come and ask you if it's yours".

Okay... so saying "Oldsmobile" is like saying "Old Car"... I need to sync my brain around that one

So. Got the manuals in the mail, I bought 2001 Aurora manuals because the 2003 manuals are very much EXPENSIVE. Thinking 2001 will be close enough to 2003. Reading time. Happy reading time!

[Paulaurora]

YE ppl hear Oldsmobile assume its car from 60s only.. Ye 2001-2003 same as longest u got manual for 4.0 engine not for 3.5:)

[gdouaire]

The manuals cover both 3.5 and 4.0 engines.

[gdouaire]

Got the rear left window regular in the mail - as weather permits, will install it during the weekend. I'm just puzzled how to do this - in the manual, first step is lowering the window halfway to have access to some bolts I can't recall which one exactly. My issue is I can't lower the window... I guess I will find a way once I remove the inside door trim.

Aside from that, found and fixed my first electrical "gremlin" in the car after 900km worth of driving - cruise control became inoperative; I pulled the fuse, it was good, put it back and cruise control was working again.

Which makes me think I should consider doing same with every fuse and relay on the car (I know there are a lot!).

[Paulaurora]

you dont need to lower the window there will be some rubber plugs u can remove to get to the bolts without lowering plus make sure you tape up the window when u remove the regulator so windows wont fall down.

[gdouaire]

Jan 16, 2015 10:25:22 GMT -6 Paulaurora said:

you dont need to lower the window there will be some rubber plugs u can remove to get to the bolts without lowering plus make sure you tape up the window when u remove the regulator so windows wont fall down.

Thanks for the tip. Tomorrow is warm here - will be a good day for that.

[gdouaire]

Changed the rear window regulator. Worked fine.

However - that step in the manual:

"Loosen the window retainer clamp fasteners."

In my case, the clamps on the back side of the window were completely stuck - almost like they were "glued" to the surface of the window. I removed the bolts completely and left the clamps on the window w/ rubber and re-used them with the new regulator.

Furthermore, for the rear window regulator, there are 3 bolts that fasten the unit on the door. In my case, these were misaligned - presumably because the part I bought had been slightly bent. Once re-bent proper shape, the 3 bolts lined up with the mounting holes. The top bolt - I grinded off by 3/8", if not, I had to force the regulator into place.

I just need to re-seal the plastic membrane into place and re-install the inside door trim to complete the operation - but I kept that for today.

[Paulaurora]

Ye its after all the dirt etc the window kinda get glued but I used flat screw driver to release. But good that now it works:)

[gdouaire]

The window is now operating properly. I re-glued the plastic "water shield" using black silicone, after removing the dried-up caulking that was in there. Next step will be re-installing the actual door trim. I'm not in a hurry yet - need to see that window operating several times before sealing the door again.

Will try to repair the old regulator. Looks like the tip of the cable broke some piece of plastic - looks like something that can be repaired and then, shelved until the next issue....

[Paulaurora]

That's the common issue I would replace the part not repair since it will fail again in different side this is was the issue with old once the new once has better design

[gdouaire]

Had my local GM dealer change the 1) serpentine belt, 2) water pump belt and also 3) the serpentine belt tensioner.

Something less to worry about

[danjc]

I have 138000 miles on a 4.0, and have only one regulator go - right rear. I fixed it with a sticky somewhere here on the site - and it seems s=like it would be 10x stronger than a new one.

As to gremlins - WELCOME to the club! I have had HVAC go out, cruise, poor performance, windows, locks, alarm going off for no reason, speedo and odometer stop working (latest) - all for no reason. A cold start usually helps. Most times all it takes is pulling over, letting it sit for a minute, and starting back up. Some have taken a few days, but ALL have self corrected... The speedo/odo issue survived a full shutdown at a truck stop, but suddenly started working again 15 minutes later during a cross-country trip. I was trying to figure miles since it went our - was like a total of 35 miles.

The car has always had gremlins - HVAC went out when I had it for a year - pulled off to let everyone out to "cool off" (was 110 degrees), got back in AC was working fine - we were only 120 miles from home that time.

I have owned the car since 785 miles. So all of the quirks are very well known.

Oh, and my crossover has never had an issue. I keep watching it though.

Dan

[gdouaire]

Feb 13, 2015 16:59:09 GMT -6 danjc said:

As to gremlins - WELCOME to the club! I have had HVAC go out, cruise, poor performance, windows, locks, alarm going off for no reason, speedo and odometer stop working (latest) - all for no reason. A cold start usually helps. Most times all it takes is pulling over, letting it sit for a minute, and starting back up. Some have taken a few days, but ALL have self corrected... The speedo/odo issue survived a full shutdown at a truck stop, but suddenly started working again 15 minutes later during a cross-country trip. I was trying to figure miles since it went our - was like a total of 35 miles.

The car has always had gremlins - HVAC went out when I had it for a year - pulled off to let everyone out to "cool off" (was 110 degrees), got back in AC was working fine - we were only 120 miles from home that time.


Dan

Interesting to understand that a cold start would "fix" issues like that.  Will keep that in mind, and thanks for sharing...

When my cruise control went out, removing the fuse did the trick. I am thinking that over time, oxydation and-or vibrations might make the contact weak. But I have no proof of that....

My next step on the car will be to change the spark plugs. But when weather permits, I will remove and reseat all fuses and relays on the car.