|
|
Post by bossdonsin on Feb 23, 2015 11:44:08 GMT -6
wondering if the alternator is the cause. I have had intermittent starts in the cold weather. Replaced the battery as it had low cell life. Still had times with full lights on and accessories working without DIC warning and no start. This made me think it was the starter, solenoid or ignition switch or bad ground etc. Replaced the battery again and ran a check and noticed a low charge. Im thinking helping friends with boosts fried to charging system. Could this be the alternator?
|
|
tigger
Administrator 
Posts: 2,844 
Staff Member
|
Post by tigger on Feb 23, 2015 20:29:05 GMT -6
Charge and load test the battery first. If it checks out, put a DMM on your battery terminals with the engine running, no accssories. You're looking for around 14.5V.
|
|
|
|
Post by bossdonsin on Feb 24, 2015 7:21:57 GMT -6
done the load test. Wondering if theres a way to test the alternator with a DMM. Or if it has to be taken out to do so. Or if there is something else in between in the charging system that could be the issue...
|
|
|
|
Post by sall on Feb 24, 2015 7:26:24 GMT -6
Did you disconnect the battery thermistor(temperature sensor) when swapping batteries by accident? You can test with a DMM to see if the alternator is getting turn on signal from the PCM.
|
|
bobsblue95
Super Moderator 
Scars of pleasure, scars of pain. Atmospheric changes make you sensitive again.
Posts: 3,125
Staff Member
|
Post by bobsblue95 on Feb 25, 2015 14:30:43 GMT -6
done the load test. Wondering if theres a way to test the alternator with a DMM. Yes, just do what Tigger suggested, measure the voltage at the battery with the engine running, no accessories on. You already had the battery load tested, so you know it's good. If the voltage is low, the alternator/regulator probably needs replacing. Loose or dirty connections are always a possibility, unless you've personally cleaned and tightened them. |
|
|
|
Post by sall on Feb 25, 2015 15:28:11 GMT -6
If the PCM isn't telling the alternator to turn on the alternator won't work. Which is why you should check the plug L terminal for voltage with key on. No voltage there wire or PCM issue. That is rarely the issue though. Also, if the thermistor is unplugged it should still charge at the 14.6v set point.
|
|
|
|
Post by bossdonsin on Feb 25, 2015 16:15:39 GMT -6
getting the low charge message when testing the battery. Jumped the alternator it kicked but didn't start. Thinking starter...but why the loss of charge? updates coming soon. Going to have to alternator checked and tec 2 hooked up.
|
|
|
|
Post by sall on Feb 25, 2015 17:15:29 GMT -6
|
|
|
|
Post by bossdonsin on Feb 26, 2015 12:07:31 GMT -6
I have a test light and jump starting cable if I break down to check to see if its my ignition switch. I had the alternator checked and it was reading fine. Battery seems ok. Going to go from there next time I break down. Maybe it was the weather.
|
|
|
|
Post by oneye on Feb 27, 2015 6:12:41 GMT -6
I've had the mysterious non-start issue several times but only momentarily, never been stranded. Pretty sure it's connections, either at the ignition switch or the big plug down by the driver-side kick panel.
|
|
Randy T.
Administrator
☯ AURORA GXP ☯
Posts: 3,758
Staff Member
|
Post by Randy T. on Feb 27, 2015 7:19:06 GMT -6
Some people also get loose wires on the starter.
I shut my '97 off one day and it would not start again, ended up being the ignition switch on mine.
|
|
|
|
Post by bossdonsin on Feb 27, 2015 7:22:51 GMT -6
going to test the with a light to see if its the ignition switch if I do break down again. Have a wire to jump if needed. Incase it wasn't just the cold or the other culprits, is the wire near the kick panel accessible? or does everything need to be taken apart? thanks a lot guys
|
|
|
|
Post by sall on Feb 27, 2015 12:31:53 GMT -6
going to test the with a light to see if its the ignition switch if I do break down again. Have a wire to jump if needed. Incase it wasn't just the cold or the other culprits, is the wire near the kick panel accessible? or does everything need to be taken apart? thanks a lot guys A typical test lamp won't work unless you have one of the continuity test probes similar to these here. www.harborfreight.com/3-piece-circuit-tester-set-94130.htmlOtherwise most cheap DMM have continuity feature. You have to pull the connector from near the firewall. Which requires removing the sound insulator panel and one bolt at the connector. aurorah.proboards.com/post/291200/thread |
|
|
|
Post by bossdonsin on Feb 27, 2015 13:33:04 GMT -6
can you not check from the starter solenoid right sight or pink with ignition on when no start is happening with the test light?
|
|
|
|
Post by sall on Feb 27, 2015 14:06:22 GMT -6
Without looking in the manual I believe there is a starter enable relay inline there somewhere. That may be on the security side of things though I don't recall at the moment. So, if no voltage there it could either be the switch, relay or somewhere in between if that proves to be case. Not trying to lead you down the wrong path though!
|
|
|
|
Post by emarkay on Mar 2, 2015 19:45:53 GMT -6
Low charge - how many volts?
Alternators deliver 50-100 amps (electric pressure) at 12-15 volts (electric volume) and a simple test is to check volts - battery at rest should be minimum of 10.5-11 volts, optimum 12-13 volts. After starting, when cold should be 13-15 volts minimum. Any less, start checking for resitance (electric blockages) Like loose connections, dirty contacts, corroded wires, or with more testing, failing components.
|
|
|
|
Post by bossdonsin on Mar 2, 2015 22:25:38 GMT -6
has been starting fine. Battery was bad so keeping the new one in. The connector to the left of the pcv valve or near there can be disconnected and jumped from the pink inlet with a jumper wire. I have a test lamp to test the front connector if it dies again. Working from under the hood back is best to eliminate probabilities next time. Thanks for everyones input.
|
|
