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Post by AmunRoo on Nov 15, 2017 10:29:04 GMT -6
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Post by Toronado3800 on Nov 15, 2017 18:07:46 GMT -6
I'm cynical about brake upgrades. If mine lock up the wheels and activate the anti lock then what do the new ones do better?
Resist heating up after a few hard stops? Probably. What am I doing wrong if I am continually making hard stops? This matters for race cars.
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tigger
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Post by tigger on Nov 15, 2017 23:22:50 GMT -6
Drilled and slotted rotors did come from racing. The idea is to save a little weight and help the rotor recover (cool) faster. But you see them on any and everything these days, for what I can only assume to be aesthetic reasons. I men, they do look good. But no, you won't notice any difference in normal driving versus a plain rotor.
Roo, If you like them, go for it... Wonder how long that coating will last, haha!
BTW, you do have a full set of LucerneV8/DTS calipers to go with, right? The kit lists a 323mm front...
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Post by AmunRoo on Nov 16, 2017 7:17:40 GMT -6
Yes, I have the Lucerne brake calipers and brackets... Just need rotors and pads... This set is cheaper than buying each rotor individually by about 80 bucks... I'm well aware i won't see the benefit of the heat dissipation because I'm not racing. Lol I was just curious about the company lol
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RCA1186
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Rob
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Post by RCA1186 on Nov 16, 2017 7:21:28 GMT -6
I went with drilled and slotted this time around and the only difference I noticed was the extra WHIRRRRR when breaking from the slots haha. From what I've read the drilled and slotted rotors wont make any difference braking for every day driving and you're actually better off with stock rotors as there is more surface area technically. Apparently the holes are also prone to causing premature stress fracturing in the rotor. I say a good ceramic (I think mine were carbon fiber ceramic) pad and a stock type rotor is your best bet, unless we're talking about going larger with Bonneville GXP or Lucerne calipers and rotors.
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Post by southstar on Nov 16, 2017 8:14:47 GMT -6
I used the Powerstop brand drilled rotors to replace my warped stock rotors and like them. The better quality pads provide some improvement. I upgrade all my cars to drilled rotors nowadays.
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Post by quixote on Nov 16, 2017 13:30:34 GMT -6
I saw a GM exec somewhere, talking about metallic brakes/pads on a cadillac concept car... he said their testing showed that when you aren't actually racing, classic brakes/pads actually are more efficient that carbon ceramic. I spent $360 on replacement dual piston fronts, zinc plated rotors (were supposed to stay silver, not rust where pads don't rub), and semi-metallic pads. I prefer them this way, but I wouldn't say the difference is thrilling. (Maybe it would be even less, on 2nd gen?) The 'zinc plating' is a load of horse-$hi#. Everywhere the pads don't touch is red/orange after less than 2 months on the road, kept off the road October-May.  That said, it's your money. Go with what turns you on. |
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tigger
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Post by tigger on Nov 16, 2017 23:14:53 GMT -6
...Apparently the holes are also prone to causing premature stress fracturing in the rotor. I've read and heard that as well. Pretty much the reason I went with OEM '06 Cadillac DTS rotors for my eventual upgrade, haha! They're sitting on the bench in boxes, waiting on me to rebuild the Junkyard calipers... |
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RCA1186
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Post by RCA1186 on Nov 17, 2017 7:07:32 GMT -6
I don't know if I see any performance difference with the carbon/ceramic over semi-metallic but less dust, seem to be quieter, and they definitely last longer which was the main reason I wanted them.
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Post by quixote on Nov 17, 2017 17:10:45 GMT -6
...I doubt it'll make any difference, but I forgot to mention that my 'zinc plated' rotors are neither drilled nor slotted. I had thought to get slotted, but I changed my mind when I made the purchase. I don't recall why. If it was a choice between either the plating or the slotting, in retrospect, I should have gone with slotted. They don't look bad, rlly ---seeing the rust that really shouldn't be there at all yet is just off-putting. (I really like how they looked, before the rust.)
Looking at the listing more carefully, they do look like a more "high tech version" of the brakes I've got, with the addition of the drilling & slotting. If you get them, I hope the rust-proofing is much more effective than mine. I would want to see a lot of reviews, testimonials, & tests ---if this was me shopping again.
& Also, I have read that a side-benefit of the carbon ceramic is that the brake dust does less damage to your rims, over time. I want to say it does no damage, but I don't think people have been using them long-term enough to be able to tell. If you are anal-retentive about cleaning your wheels, it may make no difference at all to you.
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Post by psron on Nov 26, 2017 23:01:59 GMT -6
Several years ago, I got tired of the constant rotor warping in my '98... even after replacing the rotors with aftermarket drilled and slotted ones (which rusted badly). I replaced all four corners with factory (used) DTS/Lucerne brakes... a complete factory swap. They're larger, and preclude the use of the factory wheels, but that wasn't important to me since I had already upgraded to 18" Boss 318 wheels. I've not had a single problem with the new system. What a relief to be DONE with the original under-sized brakes! Pads last much, much longer too. It ended up with a slight rearward braking bias, so I probably should have changed the master cylinder too.
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tigger
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Post by tigger on Nov 26, 2017 23:15:41 GMT -6
It ended up with a slight rearward braking bias, so I probably should have changed the master cylinder too. Really? I'm (eventually, haha) going to do the exact same swap. Assumed the proportioning valve in the JL9 setup would take care of that. I mean, the Lucerne is lighter in the rear than the Aurora... |
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Post by psron on Nov 26, 2017 23:58:15 GMT -6
Biggest concerns:
Brake lines use different fitting/flare (bubble-flare vs double-flare).
Parking brake cables (be sure to get the ones for the DTS/Lucerne brakes)- needed some work to get them connected to the factory front-half (joined the two at the cable adjustment). Also had to make changes on cable brackets... but it's been years, so I can't remember the details.
As mentioned - brake balance ended up somewhat rearward heavy.
Be sure to get the dust shields
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Post by AmunRoo on Jan 5, 2018 3:44:12 GMT -6
Wait, what? I thought the swap was more plug and play than anything else. I'm doing the Lucerne brake upgrade. Just exactly how involved is this upgrade?
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RCA1186
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Rob
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Post by RCA1186 on Jan 5, 2018 9:42:15 GMT -6
Several years ago, I got tired of the constant rotor warping in my '98... even after replacing the rotors with aftermarket drilled and slotted ones (which rusted badly). I replaced all four corners with factory (used) DTS/Lucerne brakes... a complete factory swap. They're larger, and preclude the use of the factory wheels, but that wasn't important to me since I had already upgraded to 18" Boss 318 wheels. I've not had a single problem with the new system. What a relief to be DONE with the original under-sized brakes! Pads last much, much longer too. It ended up with a slight rearward braking bias, so I probably should have changed the master cylinder too. I wonder if your warping problem was due in part to the larger wheel, whether they're heavier than stock or let in more water/air. Or did you change to larger wheels with the upgrade? Just a thought. I'm considering larger wheels at some point myself. |
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