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Post by AmunRoo on Jan 8, 2021 13:54:30 GMT -6
Does anyone know the bose audio system specs for the 2nd gen? I have an 03 with bose system. Is it a two ohm system? Bose is mostly 2 or 3 ohm systems. I wanted to upgrade my speakers to something better. Any help is greatly appreciated.
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Post by phewop118 on Jan 8, 2021 17:42:04 GMT -6
Yeah, I'd like to know as well. The rear deck speakers are not marked (usually they are). Typically, Bose systems use 2-ohm speakers in most applications. Sometimes the rear door speakers are different (they are shared with gen 1 Cts, may be able to find some info there)
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tigger
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Post by tigger on Jan 8, 2021 17:50:45 GMT -6
I would assume that it's 2 ohm, but you can check it with a multimeter...
Disconnect a speaker, set your multimeter to ohms and take a reading. Impedance is usually rated 1, 2, 4, 8, or 16 ohms for speakers. So if your reading is .5, it's a 1 ohm. If it's 1.2, it's a 2 ohm and so on. You just round up to the next rating.
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Post by AmunRoo on Jan 8, 2021 18:26:03 GMT -6
I know Tigg, I'm to lazy to whip out the multimeter lol
Plus it's cold-ish in Chicago right now...
I'm pretty sure it's up to home system. But what I wanted to know, were the specs on the amplifier. I want to be able to match the speakers to the amplifiers output.
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tigger
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Post by tigger on Jan 11, 2021 17:58:49 GMT -6
But what I wanted to know, were the specs on the amplifier... Haha, yeah, good luck with that. Bose doesn't like to publish specs. Like phewop118 said, they don't even mark speakers, lol! Maybe they want us to believe it's all "magic"... If I had to guess, I'd say it's something like 4X15w, 4X20w at most. |
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Post by AmunRoo on Jan 12, 2021 13:14:54 GMT -6
Is that really it? 20 watts at most from the amp? That's pretty ******... I'm going to have to replace the entire system 😵
I thought I would be able to get away with just replacing the speakers... 🤨
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tigger
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Post by tigger on Jan 12, 2021 17:33:04 GMT -6
That's 20 per channel, 4 channels, so 80 watts total. But yeah, nothing major.
Remember, low impedance speakers need less power than higher impedance ones...
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Post by AmunRoo on Feb 2, 2021 6:38:21 GMT -6
I have the eight speaker system. Two in the front door, two in the rear door, 6x9s and tweeters in the A pillar.
Does anyone know the size of the rear door speakers?
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Paulaurora
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Post by Paulaurora on Feb 2, 2021 18:04:51 GMT -6
ACDELCO 25660131 GM Original Equipment Info
Rear Side Door; BOSE 8 Speaker System (U80)
Classification Midrange
Cone Color Black
Diameter (in) 4.79
Driver Type Midrange
Frame Color Black
Frame Material Steel
Mounting Depth (IN) 1.98
Mounting Hardware Included No
Programming Required No
Remanufactured? No
Terminal Quantity 2
Terminal Type Blade
Width 65.1
Width (in) 2.56
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Post by phewop118 on Feb 2, 2021 23:06:54 GMT -6
Note that Crutchfield doesn't have data on our Bose systems. However, the ACDelco part number cross references to the first generation CTS rear door as well. According to Crutchfield, 5.25" replacements fit.
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Post by AUROD X on Feb 22, 2021 20:37:34 GMT -6
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Post by AUROD X on Feb 22, 2021 20:46:24 GMT -6
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Post by AmunRoo on Feb 23, 2021 15:38:10 GMT -6
Did you add a fuse in the line? Very clean. Very nice. I just bought a five channel 4000 Watt Max amplifier that I'm installing in my 2001 Aurora. My 03 has a 12-in shallow mount self-powered sub enclosure. 1200 watt Max, 300 w RMS. It gives it a nice little kick to the Bose system. But my old one is going to be my all-out audio.
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Post by AUROD X on Feb 23, 2021 15:49:42 GMT -6
Yes I did, 50amp MAXI Fuse. Didn't have a 30amp.
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Post by wfooshee on Feb 24, 2021 9:30:49 GMT -6
Something to keep in mind with the Bose system is that (supposedly) Bose builds an EQ curve into their amp to "match" the car the system is going into. Change the speakers, that EQ curve will come back to bite you.
Also, the Bose amp uses balanced inputs. Regular RCA cables have a core and a sheath, while the Bose balanced lines have two cores and a sheath. It becomes a cascade effect pretty rapidly. You want to change the speakers, you'll need to consider tossing the Bose amp, as 4-ohm speakers will probably be too much of a load for it. You can't hook the head unit to an aftermarket amp, though, without some adapter for the balanced lines from the head unit, so you'll consider replacing the head unit. I don't know about the Gen 2 Auroras, but my Gen 1 '99 had a dash function that didn't work if the radio was gone (no date on the driver information center,) and removing the head unit also interrupted something in the data bus, I think it was the steering wheel climate buttons died without the head unit.
I was happy with the sound of the Bose system, but I wanted Bluetooth, so I replaced my head unit, and to get it working with the Bose amp, I added an adapter from PAC that converted the head unit's RCA line out to the Bose balanced lines, and I was able to add a steering wheel adapter so the radio button on the wheel still worked. There was a thread in the Gen 1 section about hiding the factory radio under the dash and connecting enough of it to have the clock set, which re-enabled the DIC date display. Weird, but it worked. I was not up to replacing the speakers and amp.
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RCA1186
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Post by RCA1186 on Feb 25, 2021 7:35:29 GMT -6
Something to keep in mind with the Bose system is that (supposedly) Bose builds an EQ curve into their amp to "match" the car the system is going into. Change the speakers, that EQ curve will come back to bite you. Also, the Bose amp uses balanced inputs. Regular RCA cables have a core and a sheath, while the Bose balanced lines have two cores and a sheath. It becomes a cascade effect pretty rapidly. You want to change the speakers, you'll need to consider tossing the Bose amp, as 4-ohm speakers will probably be too much of a load for it. You can't hook the head unit to an aftermarket amp, though, without some adapter for the balanced lines from the head unit, so you'll consider replacing the head unit. I don't know about the Gen 2 Auroras, but my Gen 1 '99 had a dash function that didn't work if the radio was gone (no date on the driver information center,) and removing the head unit also interrupted something in the data bus, I think it was the steering wheel climate buttons died without the head unit. I was happy with the sound of the Bose system, but I wanted Bluetooth, so I replaced my head unit, and to get it working with the Bose amp, I added an adapter from PAC that converted the head unit's RCA line out to the Bose balanced lines, and I was able to add a steering wheel adapter so the radio button on the wheel still worked. There was a thread in the Gen 1 section about hiding the factory radio under the dash and connecting enough of it to have the clock set, which re-enabled the DIC date display. Weird, but it worked. I was not up to replacing the speakers and amp. They make an adapter to retain fan and steering wheel control with aftermarket headunit, but you'd still have to use the stock radio hidden away if you wanted to retain the date. |
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Post by wfooshee on Feb 25, 2021 8:08:28 GMT -6
Yeah, I had the line-to-balanced adapter AND a steering wheel button adapter, both from PAC, and my head unit had the jack for the steering wheel inputs. The fan and temperature buttons also still require the original head unit be present in the network.
I'm not sure what you'd do to keep the head unit with aftermarket amps and speakers, I never looked into that. You'd still need to adapt balanced outputs to line inputs, the opposite direction of what I did.
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Paulaurora
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Post by Paulaurora on Feb 25, 2021 16:55:21 GMT -6
Gen 2 dont have that issue with loosing functions like gen 1.
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