|
Post by Wacko on Dec 10, 2005 10:53:25 GMT -6
I noticed my car is dripping coolant ever so slowly from at least one location. On the top side of the engine compartment you can see here that the seam between the water pump and the thermostat housings are wet. On the underside, you can see coolant leaking at the same seam here. The top circle is actually coolant that has collected on a sensor wire, I believe. The circle on the right is actually at the head gasket corner. It is moist. I do not think the gasket is leaking there. In this photo, the puddle behind the tire is actually melted snow. In the foreground you can see the coolant on the crossmember. Above the crossmember you can see the caked on transmission fluid from the leaky cooler line I replaced last week. The two problems are not related. But at first sight of the coolant leak I thought it was the trans fluid from my repair. My first thought is to drain/fill the fluid per Aurora40's great write-up, hoping that the coolant tabs might help. Maybe torque down the thermostat bolts in case they are loose. Then watch it for continued leaks. If it continues to leak, I would replace the gaskets (and the water pump element and thermostat since I would have everything apart) and maybe even hoses. Regarding the head gasket...
|
|
|
Post by Aurora40 on Dec 10, 2005 11:31:00 GMT -6
I'd guess a water pump gasket, or maybe the water pump judging from the location. The water pump gaskets seem to not make it very long, though.
|
|
|
Post by Wacko on Dec 12, 2005 13:28:08 GMT -6
From what I've read on this engine, it would appear that the gasket is due. I doubt the coolant in this car has ever been changed. This car went into service Aug or Sep of 2000. Even with 59000 miles, the coolant has reached its marketed limit of 5 years/100K miles.
I'm going to replace the upper/lower hoses, thermostat, thermostat seat, water pump element its gasket and o-ring, and the belt.
What about the hose clamps, does anyone have an opinion on these?
|
|
|
Post by Aurora40 on Dec 12, 2005 14:40:55 GMT -6
I'd probably leave the stock hoses. I bet they'll last the life of the car. Do they look bad or anything?
The hose clamps are good, don't replace them with screw-type. These constant-pressure ones are much better.
|
|
bld
Aurora Groupie
Posts: 128
|
Post by bld on Dec 12, 2005 14:52:31 GMT -6
I would give strong consideration to replacing the radiator hoses (including heater hoses), after five years. Personally, I would pay a little more to go with Gates brand hoses. There is some pretty cheap junk out there these days (e.g., paper thin hoses). While I normally replace hose clamps when replacing hoses, I think Aurora40 is right. I much prefer the constant pressure type clamps and would be hesitant to ditch those. I never can find the constant pressure type in the parts stores. Around here, they only carry the screw type. {BTW - Anybody know where to find the constant pressure type?} I need to replace the hoses in mine, now at six years and 100k. Some of the heater hoses look like trouble to get to. The original owners replaced the water pump & radiator, but not the hoses!
|
|
|
Post by Wacko on Dec 12, 2005 15:13:29 GMT -6
Bob, the hoses look fine from the outside. I haven't looked at the inside or the ends. bld, I too was influenced by this Bates propaganda/expose regarding hoses? www.rockauto.com/ref/Gates/Detail2.htmlSo, I am ambivalent; they are not that expensive and I'm going to be draining the coolant anyway. But then, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. I'm not sure. The hoses were special order from VanDemere so I might just pass. Actually, I might order them anyway and keep them for the future. If they do go, you can't wait for them to be delivered and most dealer parts departments have bankers' hours (read I can't get there). Thanks, folks, for your input.
|
|
|
Post by Aurora40 on Dec 12, 2005 16:16:15 GMT -6
I haven't had hoses fail on cars since I had cars from the 80's. It can't hurt to change them, but hoses seem to last a really long time now. The Regal is 8 years old, has 130k, and the hoses and belts were all original until the supercharger threw an idler pulley and the original belt dragged on the ground. But that was only a month ago. The belt was still in nice shape except the scuffing from dragging. All ribs in good shape, cracking wasn't significant, it was still flexible, etc.
It's up to you, but I don't have any plans to replace my hoses. The only thing with buying them now is if you need them 5 years from now, they are a 5 year old part instead of a more newly made one.
|
|
BNICOV
Aurora Lover
Posts: 782
|
Post by BNICOV on Dec 12, 2005 18:38:27 GMT -6
The water pump might be going, not just the gasket. Get it looked at, after 2 visits to the dealer, my '03 had the water pump, thermostat, thermostat housing and gasket replaced.
|
|
|
Post by Marc on Dec 12, 2005 18:51:49 GMT -6
{BTW - Anybody know where to find the constant pressure type?} That type of hose clamp is called the "Flat Band" hose clamp. It's shown at the site noted below along with the tool to R&R it. I think that a dealer would have it. www.chain-auto-tools.com/engine_tools/AMR269L.htm
|
|
|
Post by Wacko on Dec 12, 2005 19:53:19 GMT -6
I'm hoping the gasket holds until the parts come in. Currently it's losing drops/per day. Although today I have a drain pan under it and nothing. It's almost like when I don't use the car, it leaks more. When I photographed the pics above it was dripping on me.
Funny thing is, I'm not so concerned about losing coolant and overheating 'cause the car should go into camel mode. I'm more concerned about having no heat! Ha!
BNICOV, how many miles were on your car when the water pump went and what were the symptoms?
|
|
BNICOV
Aurora Lover
Posts: 782
|
Post by BNICOV on Dec 13, 2005 7:20:54 GMT -6
It was leaking if it sat for a day or two. It had about 50 0000 kms or 31-32000 miles. Sounds like you hav the same problem. Get it looked after or else you may end up being cold and it is freezing up here in Oakville this morning.
|
|
|
Post by Aurora40 on Dec 13, 2005 9:23:12 GMT -6
I'm hoping the gasket holds until the parts come in. Currently it's losing drops/per day. Although today I have a drain pan under it and nothing. It's almost like when I don't use the car, it leaks more. That's exactly how mine was. It didn't leak when I drove it, it was when it sat that there'd be a little puddle under the car. Not sure why unless heat is related. But mine needed a new water pump gasket (under warranty).
|
|
|
Post by Wacko on Dec 18, 2005 19:08:17 GMT -6
Just finished the water pump, water pump belt, thermostat and coolant drain/refill. Outside of the coolant, I ordered everything from vanDevere. Dal (short for Dallas; I never knew that), was great, I received the stuff Friday after ordering it Saturday. Note to others who DIY: the thermostat does not necessarily come with the gasket despite what the parts guide says.
I had to run to Autozone to get a new one. They had one left.
Anyway, I should do a write-up but I'm exhausted now. But it appears that I've got the leaks under control. It even runs slightly cooler according to the very vague temp gauge.
|
|
|
Post by rocketman on Dec 18, 2005 20:34:40 GMT -6
Where you able to remove and replace the water pump without the special tool mentioned in the manual? I'll need to know for next time when it is out of warranty.
|
|
|
Post by Wacko on Dec 18, 2005 20:55:36 GMT -6
Rocketman, you absolutely need the tool. I bought one for about $25 online. They are everywhere if you Google for Northstar Waterpump tool. The one I have does not have the 2nd part to hold the socket in place so you have to hold it firmly against the pump.
I was so concerned about the leaks that I dove into this repair with too much zeal. I disassembled everything and realized I didn't have the thermostat gasket. I tried to use the old one. I would have worked but I didn't reassemble it correctly. I was trying to remember if the gasket went on first then the thermostat, or vice versa. It turns out it is neither. The gasket actually is meant to be slipped over the thermostat (sort of like mounting a bike tire to the rim).
The Service Manual was useless in this regard.
Again, I need to do a write-up but you want to replace the thermostat housing (or water outlet). The original is stamped steel and it is painted. The paint was all bubbled and lifting. I didn't replace it cause I didn't know this. The next time I drain/fill the coolant, I'll do it. It's only like $10 - 15.
|
|