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Post by TheLoveThatNeverDies on Aug 4, 2005 10:17:44 GMT -6
I've been seeing a lot of kevlar automobile stuff floating around eBay lately - spark plug wires, brake pads, etc. I was wondering, is there any real advantage to Kevlar brake pads, or are people just trying to monopolize off the respect for the material itself (seeing as it's used in body armor and such)? Any input would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
-Shawn
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Post by oldsauroraman1 on Aug 4, 2005 10:23:32 GMT -6
Good question! Don't know about them and looking forward to hearing from someone who does.
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Post by GlennS87 on Aug 5, 2005 8:05:10 GMT -6
IMHO there is no reason to consider exotic brakes for an Aurora. These cars are terrific performance luxury sedans but they are not high performance cars. I use the factory ceramic and the brakes are adequate for their designed purpose. If your racing, you've chosen the wrong vehicle to do it in. Here's an example for the brake aficianados out there. www.reddevilbrakes.comTitanium brake rotors at about 1k per rotor. |
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Post by oldsauroraman1 on Aug 5, 2005 8:11:46 GMT -6
Ok, what does "IMHO" mean, there's no key here for these abbreviations!
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Post by oldsauroraman1 on Aug 5, 2005 8:13:17 GMT -6
Exotic?? How pricey is Kevlar compared to the super expensive ceramic pads?
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Post by Custom88 on Aug 5, 2005 8:20:35 GMT -6
Ok, what does "IMHO" mean, there's no key here for these abbreviations! In My Honest Oppinion |
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Post by oldsauroraman1 on Aug 5, 2005 8:26:10 GMT -6
Thank you!
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Post by Letitroll98 on Aug 5, 2005 20:53:00 GMT -6
I thought it was "In my humble opinion", but wadda I know. I understand what Glenn is saying, but I couldn't disagree more (sorry buddy). While you don't need anything like Kevlar or other stupid stuff, a performance pad coupled with decent rotors and brake fluid can improve braking in a very positive manner. The improvement is not subtle and can best be illustrated as the difference between "phew" and "Bam". But Glenn is correct in that a full race autocross set up is improper for street cars, but the best brakes you can afford is a wise investment. Now for nuts and bolts. The Kevlar is part of the metallic compound mixture in the pads and is used to good effect in racing pads where high operating temperatures affect pad wear. This is not needed and probably detrimental in street applications as it would cause premature rotor wear. Ceramics refer to a group of binders used in low dusting type pads, this is not a performance application. There are no standards for type or amount of ceramic binder in brake pads and as such, they vary all over the map as to quality. Organics are the cheapest pad type, followed by semi-metallic where ferro material is added to the organic binder. You can easily see these types of pads all over the wheels of the cheapskates that bought these products, it's called brake dust. Ferro/carbon is the best type of street application, good friction with fairly low dusting and noise. I like Hawk products, but there are many good manufacturers like EBS, Performance Friction, Porterfield and others. Here's a link to some really great guys that tell it like it is and sell high quality products. www.raceshopper.com/ |
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Post by TheLoveThatNeverDies on Aug 5, 2005 23:05:13 GMT -6
That pretty much clears it up for me. Thanks for the in-depth explanation letitroll, I appreciate it.
As for IMHO, I'm pretty sure the H is for Humble.
-Shawn
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Post by betonthis1 on Aug 5, 2005 23:11:24 GMT -6
yeah IMHO means "In My Humble Opinion".
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Post by Roop on Aug 7, 2005 7:27:19 GMT -6
IMHO there is no reason to consider exotic brakes for an Aurora. These cars are terrific performance luxury sedans but they are not high performance cars. I use the factory ceramic and the brakes are adequate for their designed purpose. If your racing, you've chosen the wrong vehicle to do it in. Here's an example for the brake aficianados out there. www.reddevilbrakes.comauroras are fast and can smoke the majority of ricers at red lights. i don't think i'd ever put money down on a 16 second 1/4 mile car though... definatley not a pink slip either. i wouldn't want to drive for 5 hours in anything less than the aurora or maybe a cadilac CTS  . i'm thinking of picking up a used toyota supra with a turbo. some people have put tens of thousands into them and are now selling them for less than $5000. The souped up supras can do sub 10's on the quarter. if/when i get more serious about racing, i think it'll be the route for me. no way i'd want to sit in a rice burner from ottawa to toronto though. |
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Post by Aurora40 on Aug 7, 2005 8:01:52 GMT -6
One thing Letitroll forgot to mention is asbestos brake pads. They are filled with yummy goodness. They are a bit dusty, but it's really easy to clean them up. Just take some compressed air and blow all the dust off the wheels, and then breathe in a big breath of satisfaction from a job well-done.
One thing to think about when changing your brakes is what you will be using them for, what your current brakes can do, and what your tires can handle. If on a dry hot day you can already lock up your brakes from any speed, more brake won't help, you need more tire or possibly a brake bias adjustment.
Edit: P.S. Roop, I'd run away fast from any TT Supra that runs 9's and is being sold for $5,000!
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Post by oldsauroraman1 on Aug 7, 2005 11:07:53 GMT -6
One thing Letitroll forgot to mention is asbestos brake pads. They are filled with yummy goodness. They are a bit dusty, but it's really easy to clean them up. Just take some compressed air and blow all the dust off the wheels, and then breathe in a big breath of satisfaction from a job well-done. One thing to think about when changing your brakes is what you will be using them for, what your current brakes can do, and what your tires can handle. If on a dry hot day you can already lock up your brakes from any speed, more brake won't help, you need more tire or possibly a brake bias adjustment. Edit: P.S. Roop, I'd run away fast from any TT Supra that runs 9's and is being sold for $5,000! You bet! Excellent post Letitroll! However 40, if your brakes are locking up, you have a problem with your Anti-lock brake system. |
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scottydl
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Post by scottydl on Aug 8, 2005 11:28:35 GMT -6
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Post by Roop on Aug 8, 2005 18:49:03 GMT -6
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Post by GlennS87 on Aug 8, 2005 20:43:40 GMT -6
I thought it was "In my humble opinion", but wadda I know. I understand what Glenn is saying, but I couldn't disagree more (sorry buddy). While you don't need anything like Kevlar or other stupid stuff, a performance pad coupled with decent rotors and brake fluid can improve braking in a very positive manner. The improvement is not subtle and can best be illustrated as the difference between "phew" and "Bam". But Glenn is correct in that a full race autocross set up is improper for street cars, but the best brakes you can afford is a wise investment. Now for nuts and bolts. The Kevlar is part of the metallic compound mixture in the pads and is used to good effect in racing pads where high operating temperatures affect pad wear. This is not needed and probably detrimental in street applications as it would cause premature rotor wear. Ceramics refer to a group of binders used in low dusting type pads, this is not a performance application. There are no standards for type or amount of ceramic binder in brake pads and as such, they vary all over the map as to quality. Organics are the cheapest pad type, followed by semi-metallic where ferro material is added to the organic binder. You can easily see these types of pads all over the wheels of the cheapskates that bought these products, it's called brake dust. Ferro/carbon is the best type of street application, good friction with fairly low dusting and noise. I like Hawk products, but there are many good manufacturers like EBS, Performance Friction, Porterfield and others. Here's a link to some really great guys that tell it like it is and sell high quality products. www.raceshopper.com/ I definitely hear what you're saying. I can only speak of my experience with my Vette. I currently run EBC greenstuff pads. They are quite good but they dust up the wheels pretty bad. (though not as bad as hawk pads) I got them because I was looking for better stopping power over the NAPA ceramix that I had on the car from my previous pad change. While I don't auto-x or road race, I do drag race so I have a lot of experience hauling the car down from about 110 mph atthe end of Etown Raceway's 1/4 mile. I can't honestly say that I feel any better about the stopping power of the EBC's over the NAPA ceramix. Granted I didn't do any measurement of stopping distances or the like and of course I didn't have to worry as much about brake fade since I only had to stop once as opposed to on/off braking of auto-x or road racing. Based on my experiences above and the fact that most Aurora drivers that drive aggressively are stop light warriors, I just don't think there is value-add in looking at high end braking systems for these cars given how most people are using them. I say keep good quality pads on, make sure the rotors are in good shape and keep the brake fluid fresh and you are good to go for 99% of the folks on this board. |
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Post by Aurora40 on Aug 9, 2005 9:22:25 GMT -6
650rwhp probably won't put a car in the 9's unless it's quite light. But yeah, TT meaning twin-turbo. That link for the '88 didn't work, but weren't the 88's naturally aspirated? I assumed you meant the later Supra with the sequential turbos.
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Post by Roop on Aug 10, 2005 19:26:38 GMT -6
650rwhp probably won't put a car in the 9's unless it's quite light. But yeah, TT meaning twin-turbo. That link for the '88 didn't work, but weren't the 88's naturally aspirated? I assumed you meant the later Supra with the sequential turbos. if you do a search on autotrader you'll find the one i'm talking about. i'm not certain if it's supposed to be n/a but it stated it came with a turbo. sequential turbos? i'm sure paralell would be much better however all the TT's are like $40,000, way outta my budget. i'm going to retract my comment regarding the supras for now. turns out it'll cost my $6000/year for insurance, just for the supra. the aurora is currently $2400 with full coverage. that's only due to me being 21 though. maybe by the time i'm an old geezer the insurance would be affordable. unless i was making serious coin, 6k a year just for insurance is not a wise financial decision, regardless of how many cars i can smoke from a red light. cries  |
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Post by BuccaneersFan on Aug 10, 2005 19:36:19 GMT -6
i'm going to retract my comment regarding the supras for now. turns out it'll cost my $6000/year for insurance, just for the supra. the aurora is currently $2400 with full coverage. that's only due to me being 21 though. maybe by the time i'm an old geezer the insurance would be affordable. unless i was making serious coin, 6k a year just for insurance is not a wise financial decision, regardless of how many cars i can smoke from a red light. cries When you turn 25 your insurance will drop quite a bit, as long as you haven't got in an accident or have a lot of tickets. |
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Post by oldsauroraman1 on Aug 22, 2005 18:01:30 GMT -6
What about the Kevlar Brake pads???
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Post by Aurora40 on Aug 22, 2005 18:23:56 GMT -6
What about the Kevlar Brake pads??? Did you read the first page of this thread? There was a whole discussion on it that pretty much played out.  |
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Post by oldsauroraman1 on Aug 30, 2005 22:59:02 GMT -6
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. i'm thinking of picking up a used toyota supra with a turbo. some people have put tens of thousands into them and are now selling them for less than $5000. The souped up supras can do sub 10's on the quarter. 
