AutoXray EZ-Scan 6000 review

[Aurora40]

I bought an AutoXray EZ-Scan 6000 last week and thought I'd write up a bit of a review on it for those interested.

I had considered several options for a scan tool, the most versatile seem to be the kind that run on a laptop. However, for me to use software for both my OBD ZR-1, and newer OBD-II cars, I'd have to buy more than one software package, and it seemed to be about $500 or more at that level for only GM-specific software.

One thing that appealed to me about the EZ-Scan 6000 is I don't need a laptop (though I have a couple), it has GM, Chrysler, Ford OBD, as well as GM, Chrysler, Ford, and Toyota specifice OBD-II capability. Plus generic OBD-II to use on any vehicle since 1996. And another stand-out
is it is CAN compatible. I did not find any consumer-grade laptop software that was CAN compatible.

So this tool seemed the most flexible, even though I have only GM cars (and a Nissan), and no CAN cars. I also didn't like the 20-vehicle limit on EASE software, though I can't imagine hitting that limit.

I'll start off with the shortcomings of this tool. The main one is it's ability to capture and record data. It is not a tuner tool. It can record a maximum of 25 parameters at a max rate of 2 frames per second (adjustable) and can only hold 29 frames. So that's 14.5 seconds of data at the max recording rate. 2 frames a second doesn't seem quick enough for tuning work.

Also, the captured data for some reason gets deleted if you go back to real-time monitoring. This is a tad annoying.

The plusses are that it's very versatile in terms of vehicles it works with, is upgradeable, has nice long cables on the connectors (about 6' long), and has many manufacturer specific parameters. And it has many OBD-II features such as checking sensor readiness states (for emissions testing), viewing freeze-frame data, pulling sensor test results, checking and clearing codes, and pulling vehicle data like VIN, CALID, and something called "CVM" I believe, from vehicles that support that.

I initially had some problems with it on the ZR-1, but it seems the ALDL connector isn't so well put together. The grey plastic clips on the back that hold it together seem to easily push out. So snugging it all together by hand when connecting the tool solved this problem.

One question I had that no one could answer about any tool is what parameters should I expect? The tool supports a bunch, but not every vehicle supports a bunch. On my two OBD-II cars, the Regal and Aurora, I got between 40-60 parameters each. I was surprised neither had much in the way of tranny stuff (both are autos), except the tranny temp.

I also noticed you can't select parameters on the ZR-1 (or any OBD car, I don't believe). So you have to scroll them all, seeing 4 at a time on the 8-line display. On OBD-II cars, you can pick the parameters to monitor. The less you pick, the faster the update. But interestingly, the 30+ parameters on the ZR-1 updated quite fast, probably 5+ times per second, in spite of updating so many things.

According to the tech support, the tool supports every parameter the vehicle has available, they said they get the info per model from GM. I've no way to know if that's true or if I'm getting cheated out of some parameters, but the ones that are available for my 2002 Aurora are as follows:

Readiness Monitors Complete
Fuel System 1
Fuel System 2
Load Value (%)
Coolant Temp (deg)
Long Term Fuel Trim 1 (%)
Long Term Fuel Trim 2 (%)
MAP Sensor ("Hg)
Engine RPM
Vehicle Speed
Ignition Timing Advance (deg)
Intake Air Temp (deg)
Air Flow Rate (lbs/min)
Throttle Position (%)
2nd Air Status
Oxygen Sensor 1 Bank1 (V)
Short Term Fuel Trim 1 (%)
Oxygen Sensor 2 Bank1 (V)
Short Term Fuel Trim 2 (not supported, I believe because it's for the post-cat O2)
Oxygen Sensor 1 Bank2 (V)
Short Term Fuel Trim 2 (%)
OBD-II Required
Battery Voltage (V)
Throttle Sensor (V)
EGR Position (V)
Fuel Tank Pressure (" H2O)
EGR Valve Open (%)
Trans Oil Temp (deg)
Start Up Coolant Temp (deg)
Canister Purge Solenoid (%)
Long Term Cell
Injector Pulse #1 (ms)
Injector Pulse #2 (ms)
Desired EGR (%)
Barometric Pressure (" Hg)
A/F Ratio
Engine Rune Time (s)
Calc Air Flow (lbs/min)
EGR Valve Position
EGR Decel Trip
Total Misfires
Misfire History Cyl1
Misfire History Cyl2
Misfire History Cyl3
Misfire History Cyl4
Misfire History Cyl5
Misfire History Cyl6
Misfire History Cyl7
Misfire History Cyl8
Long Term Fuel Trim
Rich/Lean Lean/Rich Ratio
OBD Data Cleared (miles)
Block Learn Decel
Block Learn Idle
Block Learn Cruise
Block Learn Accel

The unit can also be configured in metric, which would change the units for many of the listed parameters.

The available OBD-II manufacturer-specific codes are listed here:
www.autoxray.com/downloads/eobd2.htm
But again, most vehicles will have a small subset of those supported.

The unit came with three OBD cables, an OBD-II cable for 1994-95 GM vehicles, and a generic OBD-II cable for all 1996+ vehicles. There is also apparently an OBD-II cable specifically for Chrysler vehicles which isn't included. There is also a battery tester accessory.

I've so far used the tool successfully on a 1990 Corvette, 1997 Buick Regal, 2002 Olds Aurora, 1995 Nissan 200SX (was surprised this worked), and a 2003 Nissan 350Z.

So far I'm pretty happy with the tool. I'm not sure if it's really worth the money, but the fact that it will hopefully be useful on many cars, and on cars past 2008 when CAN will be standard, will hopefully make it worthwhile in the long run.

[Aurora40]

A few things I thought were neat are measuring the intake air temps, and air flow. That would be an interesting way to compare air filters, intake cones, etc. To see if they flow more air over the MAF, and if the temps increase or not.

Also things like the miles since reset would be useful when looking at a used car. In case someone reset the car prior to your seeing it, to mask any trouble codes, etc.

I tried out the EZ-Charge 200 today with the tool. You input the rated load capacity, it does whatever it does, and tells you if the battery is ok, needs a charge, is about to crap out, etc. Plus it gives it an amps rating. The Aurora has a 770 CCA battery, and it said it was good for 805 CCA. The vette has a 650 CCA batter, and the tool said it was good for 620 CCA. For both it suggested they were good and needed a recharge...

It also has a voltmeter mode, which wouldn't be anything special except it saves the low and high voltage. You can hook it up, fire the car up, and see how low the volts sunk while cranking, and you can see how high they go while running/charging.

Again, I don't know if it's worth the money, but assuming it is pretty accurate in the mystery diagnosis of batteries, it ought to be. I got it for $50 shipped off of eBay.

Oh, another nice thing is the tool, the scan cables, the battery tester, and all the manuals/CD's fit into the carrying case. I like that because otherwise it would be lost somewhere in the house.

[Wacko]

Good stuff, Bob. Is fuel tank pressure the same as the fuel rail pressure?

Not likely to support BMW?

[Aurora40]

No, fuel tank pressure is like the vapor pressure. It's used to determine if your fuel cap isn't working properly (an emissions thing, as fuel vapor is a pollutant).

The rail pressure you'd need a fuel pressure gauge for.

It should support a 1996+ BMW.

[Wacko]

Thanks, Bob. Many of the scanners I've checked out have an asterisk * excludes BMW. I thought I have to go with Peake Research. www.peakeresearch.com/

Actually, these are more of a service/inspection reset tool with code scanner feature.

Nice sig pic. Like the license plates.

[Aurora40]

wacko said:

Thanks, Bob. Many of the scanners I've checked out have an asterisk * excludes BMW. I thought I have to go with Peake Research. www.peakeresearch.com/

Actually, these are more of a service/inspection reset tool with code scanner feature.

Nice sig pic. Like the license plates.

Well, I guess I could see if anyone at work will let me try it on their BMW... But it should work. For one, OBD-II is pretty highly standardized.

With that tool you linked, do you have to buy the round thing, and then also buy the OBD-II interface cable? That's like $200 just to read codes and reset them only on a BMW!

[Aurora40]

Alright, I've played around with the tool more. I just wanted to show you all some of the things you can see/test/tune with the scan data. It's not like a wideband dyno or anything, but there is a lot of info you can use from the tool if you are so inclined.

Here is one I took of the Corvette. I will attempt to do the same for the Aurora. What you see here is the MAP sensor value, the throttle position, and the rpm. The MAP measures the pressure in the intake manifold:



So as the engine spins faster and faster under WOT, it needs more and more air. If the intake can not provide that air quick enough, the pressure in the intake manifold will drop. In this graph you can see that the pressure (read as volts on the blue line) drops off very little from ~3,000 rpm up to ~6,400 rpm (the rising green line). Granted there's still another 600 rpm to go, but in this case the intake seems to not be restricting the engine very much.

Edit: By intake, I mean everything. Filter, ducting, MAF, throttle body... The restriction could be anywhere if there were one. The tool won't tell you what is the weakest link, just that there is or isn't one. This could be interesting for comparing a cone filter to the stock airbox. Or no air filter to an air filter just to see if that's even the restriction at all.

[macadamiaman]

How much did you pay for it? Quick glance at ebay says over $450

[Aurora40]

$404 shipped

[bronxgirl360]

i wish you could put that scanner on my car , maybe you could give me more info on my car
so i can make a decision weather or not its worth while to fix .....instead of listening to other who dont care for oldsmobiles anyway

Sad in Pa

[fjs442]

Bob, thanks for the great write-up. I am looking into buying a scan tool and have looked at the EZ-Scan 6000. After having it for almost a year what are you thoughts (pros/cons) now compared to your original thoughts?? From who did you purchase your unit?? I was looking on Ebay and they seem to be starting at around $360 and going up from there.

Frank

[Aurora40]

Um, I like it. Less than I thought I would. The recording feature isn't that useful. 30 frames is ok, not great, but a max of 2 frames a second sucks. That's one frame every .5 seconds. When you are at WOT, a lot happens in .5 seconds. The rpm snapshots are often 1000 rpm apart or more.

Everything else about it is fine though. Does what it says it does. I've tried it on Fords and Nissan's, and had problems with it staying monitoring on a '95 Bonnie. I've heard of other people who had cable problems too.

I guess if I had it to do over again, I would maybe probably buy it. If not, I just would keep my money, not buy something lower-end.

I can't recall where I got it, I'll look into it.