Mobil 1 Extended Performance

[scottydl]

Just put 7.5 quarts of this stuff in the Aurora last Thursday, before hitting the road for family Thanksgiving gatherings. I've been using full synthetic oils for my last 4-5 oil changes now (probably over 25k miles), but haven't stuck with a certain brand yet. I've used M1, Pennzoil Platinum, and Supertech (Wal-mart brand). This time I decided to splurge and go for the M1 Extended Performance - rated for 15,000 miles or 1 year, whichever comes first. Is it worth the extra money over standard M1? Should I change the filter a couple times during that 15k miles? I'm using a Purolater "Pure One" filter, the basic one. Any other experiences out there? I'm not an oil expert like some others here, just want to treat my engine right and get all the miles I can.

[Aurora40]

I would guess 15,000 mile oil change intervals are not the way to "treat my engine right". If you want to go that long, you might try an oil sample analysis to make sure it is still performing for that long. Personally, I'd still stick to the oil life monitor, even for synthetic oil. You still will get way more life out of it than the 3k "standard" interval.

[Aurora40]

Actually, if nothing else, maybe double the oil life monitor with an analysis and filter change before resetting the monitor. Then you'd get the max 15,000 mile interval if you drove the car lightly enough, and less based on driving conditions. The OLM maxes out around 7500 miles anyway, if I recall correctly.

Just a thought.

[scottydl]

aurora40 said:

I would guess 15,000 mile oil change intervals are not the way to "treat my engine right". If you want to go that long, you might try an oil sample analysis to make sure it is still performing for that long.

I didn't come up with the number... it's actually printed on the M1 Extended Performance container. Hopefully I'm not too naive in thinking that the M1 folks have done oil analysis that shows it's the stuff is safe to run for 15k miles. That's the only thing that sold me the product (I would have gotten the standard M1 otherwise), so if it's not accurate then I want my money back.

[Aurora40]

How many Auroras do you think they used in their tests?

All I'm trying to say is that this doesn't sound like a formula for success. If the oil fails to perform, do you think you'll be able to prove it was the oil that shortened your engine's life? What does Mobil 1 really have at stake and what do you have at stake?

If you want to run it for 15,000 miles, spend the $20 to get the oil analyzed to be sure. For 8 quarts of oil, that's still cheaper than a change.

[latenight72]

aurora40 said:

How many Auroras do you think they used in their tests?

Agreed. Several people have used my beloved Amsoil in their cars for well over 15k, some into the 20k range, and it was still performing great. But that being said, I am the first to attempt it in a Northstar based motor. I will be getting the oil analyzed at around 6k.

It pays to get it analyzed.


-Todd

[scottydl]

latenight72 said:

It pays to get it analyzed.

How is this done? I've read all about UOA after some research on BITOG forums, but nothing on where to get such a test performed.

Citing various tests on synthetics, many members on BITOG are claiming Pennzoil Platinum is the best value for the money. Not that any of them were Northstar-specific, however.

[aaaauroraaaa]

scottydl said:

latenight72 said:

It pays to get it analyzed.

How is this done? I've read all about UOA after some research on BITOG forums, but nothing on where to get such a test performed.

Citing various tests on synthetics, many members on BITOG are claiming Pennzoil Platinum is the best value for the money. Not that any of them were Northstar-specific, however.

google:
blackstone labs

they will send you a test kit w/ directions.

[Aurora40]

www.blackstone-labs.com/free_test_kit.html

[scottydl]

How far into the oil usage do you think I should wait before analyzing? I just changed it last week, so it'll be many months before I'm nearing 8-10k miles (my usual interval for synthetic oil changes).

[Aurora40]

If you want to go 15,000, I'd say analyze it at 7,500. Or whenever the OLM gets down to like 10% or so.

[aaaauroraaaa]

I'm on 4750ish since I changed my Oil to Amsoil ASL 5w-30 in mid september. I would recommend if you are going to go 15,000 miles to get an Amsoil oil filter... forget their trade name for it off the top of my head, something absolute efficiency.

I plan on just changing it in the spring, prob have 15-20k on it.

However, I've either burned or leaked thru 3+ quarts since the change, so I know it won't be all old oil by that time (would chaning to 5w-20 or 0-30 help this?)

[macadamiaman]

^^ so one quart every 1500 miles, by 15,000 miles you've done 10 quarts... no need for oil change!

[aurora2001tan]

Since no one actually spent the 22 bucks for the test to black stone Ill tell everyone about mine.

In my old car and Olds achieva 3.1 soon before I sold the car I let the mobil 1 oil (standard full syn type) go for 10000 miles that happened in about ........5 months. I then sent a sample to the lab. Blackstone told me the oil was still up to snuff and still full of working manufactures additives. Bottom line was the oil was still doing its job. The oil filter was replaced around the 5000 mark.

I sold the car with 225k miles still burning rubber and no trans problems. The thing just would not fail me. It is still running on the highways of INDY, still going strong. The motor got mobil 1 ONLY from 60 k to 225k , I bought the car with 20k miles on it.

The most hilarious thing the car broke down on was the drivers side window stopped working. The head gaskets seaped coolant at 110k so I replaced the head gaskets. Other than that the thing never once engine coded on me or lost the air conditioning charge!!! LOL

[scottydl]

aurora2001tan said:

I then sent a sample to the lab. Blackstone told me the oil was still up to snuff and still full of working manufactures additives. Bottom line was the oil was still doing its job. The oil filter was replaced around the 5000 mark.

Sounds good to me... this Extended Performance is rated for 1 year / 15k miles and I was planning on changing the filter every 5k also. I'm thinking I should be okay, since my wife is the primary Aurora driver these days and she's pretty easy on the car.

[aurora2001tan]

I told the lab that I was running an " experiment" I cant hardly get anyone i know to use syn oils. Some people just dont like change or believe it works. I mainly hear " oMG that oil is going to get so dirty , so nasty" Well oil doesnt get gunked up in engines like it used to. Engines and Oil are light years different than what we grew up with. Some will never get it.

[jason]

My oil of choice.
www.valvoline.com/pages/products/product_detail.asp?product=7

[Aurora Rancher]

My Choice for Synthetics is to go right to the Pioneer of synthetics, "AmsOil".
Amsoil makes a superior oil to all the other Synthetics on the market. Don't get me wrong, any, ANY Synthetic is better than ANY petroleum oil (crude oil, the name speaks for itself). Synthetic oils are "engineered" to be better.
I can attest to many stories of my own. With Oil Analyzing, always.
The most remarkable though was in my KW that had over 380,000 miles and 5 years on the oil and changed the filter when recommended (only 3 times) by, Oil Analysts, Inc near Chicago.
AmsOil has more selection of oils than any other brand & the best for our Auroras is either their 5W-30 or the Signature Blend 0W-30 (yes, that is Zero W-30). And as mentioned by another ACNA member their oils filters are the best, they are called EaO (absolute Efficiency) Oil Filters.

www.amsoil.com

Go to their website and browse around in the "Online Product Application Guide" for oils, greases, transmission fluids, gear lubes, Filters - both Oil & Air (better than K&N). If you happen to order anything online, on checkout they ask for a referral number, use "164030"

[intheb0x]

how do you change the filter without changing the oil?

[Aurora Rancher]

The filter is on the lower front of the engine. Raise the car enough to get to the filter. The filter is above the level of the Oil in the Sump (Oil Pan). Just spin off the old filter, you will get some oil running down the side of the filter during removal (this will be minimal). Always fill the new filter with new oil before installing, then spin on the new oil filter. Start the car for a moment or 2, check for leaks, shut it down. Lower the car back down. Wait a couple of minutes or so then check the oil level. May need to add a little to top it off (i.e. 1/2 quart or so). All Done.

Nothing on this car could be easier. Other than listening to that sweet engine purrrrr under the hood.

Oh forgot to mention Amsoil has oils rated for extended use of 15,000 miles, 25,000 miles, and 35,000 miles. what is you car worth to you. Mine is worth the extra money and Protection of this Great Oil.

[scottydl]

Update: I changed my oil today, after about 11 months and 9,820 miles. I figured that was long enough, even though M1 EP is rated for 12 months or 15,000 miles. I'm pretty comfortable with the product claims, given that it's a reputable manufacturer and high-mileage oils are more and more common now.

The new M1 EP that I used today I bought several months ago, when Advance Auto was having a sale that included 5 quarts of any M1 and an M1 oil filter for $26. Definitely paid to stock up then AND get the Extended Performance which is otherwise more expensive than standard M1. Had I not run across this deal, I probably would give Amsoil a try this time around. Maybe next year!

Exact mileage at today's change was 106,793 so I'll see you back here next Halloween at 116-120k.

[oldsmobiletw]

scotty the sale is on again i have looking for it since last time .I felt bad for not stocking up on it before . the only diff is that its 3 bucks more than last time.

[scottydl]

Oct 30, 2008 11:02:00 GMT -6 oldsmobiletw said:

scotty the sale is on again i have looking for it since last time .I felt bad for not stocking up on it before . the only diff is that its 3 bucks more than last time.

Well you know, with the status of the economy now...

So what's the package price now... $29? Still an exceptionally good deal especially if you get the M1 Extended Performance, considering that the regular price on it is $7.99/quart!

Another sale that I've seen (online only) through Advanced Auto is half-price quarts of synthetic oils. www.partsamerica.com Good to check there every so often. The brick-and-mortar stores will not honor online sale prices, BUT you can order and pay online and then pick up at a local store that same day. A copy of the invoice prints out right at the store, and they go pull your merchandise. Works out pretty much the same way.

[oldsmobiletw]

ok you all dont laugh i went in there to load up on the oil. and after talking to a cashier he told me that the sale included royal purple 10w30 and a mobile oil filter. So he went on to tell me how great it was compared to every other oil out there. and that he him self purchased several quarts because of the deal.

ill change it here in a few weeks i hope it dose not screw anything up.

[scottydl]

You won't screw anything up by changing oil brands. I don't swear by M1 (or any brand) like some folks do, I've just heard good things about it over the years and synthetic seems to be a quality product that's better for the engine long-term than conventional oil. Is Royal Purple a full synthetic?

Edit: I just saw your new thread on Royal Purple, so that discussion can continue here.

[edge350]

I got lots of bad advice from people at oilchange places, saying that if you go synthetic and then go back your will need $hundreds in repairs to fix the engine. They all had some relative who had to have some kind of overhaul or another and the oil was blamed. So, since favored Mobil I called them to ask all kinds of questions about synthetic vs. regular, switdhing back and forth, etc....

1-800-ASK MOBIL (275-6624)


Moble rep told me if your car is going synthetic for the 1st time, you should change the oil 3k miles no matter what. The more miles you have on your car the 1st time you use synthetic the more gunk and grime the synthetic is going to losen up and you need to get that out, then you can go for extended milage.

[Aurora Rancher]

I've been running Synthetics for over 25 years. I also ran a Mobile Lube Service for about 6 years. I can give you lots of advice on which oil, Crude and/or Synthetic.

1st is any synthetic is better than any petroleum. You can look at the pour points, flash points, fire points, 4 ball wear tests, noack Volitility tests and you will find that your Common name brands such as Amsoil (#1), Castrol Syntech and Havoline Synthetic beat the major Synthetic competion and even Quaker State Advanced, Mobil 1 Extended, Pennzoil and Royal Purple all beat the Petroleum competion.

There is no problems changing back to petroleum after going synthetic within your engine. If you run into trouble finding a synthetic to top off your engine, if it gets low, all of the brands I have mentioned are compatible with the petroleum oils. You have only weakened your Synthetic to a Petroleum standard.

I recommend Amsoil 1st, but as I have stated any synthetic is better than the best petroleum.

[edge350]

Dec 5, 2008 13:32:10 GMT -6 Aurora Rancher said:

I've been running Synthetics..................
I recommend Amsoil 1st...

I haven't seen Amsoil around here, maybe I haven't been paying attention, is it at Autozone and such? I'm ready for an oilchange this weekend while i'm up on the ramps.

What are your views on the whole EVERY 3,000 MILES folks who get in a snit when you show them an owners manual that says 5k, and the fact the aurora holds 50% more oil than most cars, and you have these extended usage synthetics out there too? Do you run extended on your synthetics and just change out the oil filter more often than the oil? I've come across articles on thnis and no one seems to agree.

[robaurora01]

I do mine with synthetic every 7k km's so about every 3k miles I try and go for 6k km's but I give myself that 1k grace as its the first 3 times so far since Ive owned the car and I know for sure its had synthetic I find she runs much smoother, however im going to use lucas oil to fill up the last little bit instead of the full 6 L of oil just put 5.5L oil then 500 ml of lucas oil treatment

[ntrenn]

Has anybody had an oil related failure on a N* that was properly maintained?

Bet you will look long and hard to find any engine failure that was caused by the lube system.

I've got a nearly 300,000 mile Iron Duke that has been fed every cheap brand of oil I could find and still has yet to have even the valve cover removed. It's still as clean inside as I could get it in a rebuild. Oil changed every 3,000 miles, all 3.5 quarts of it every time....still has the original drain plug as well....