Post by oldsmobile99 on Aug 23, 2011 8:14:24 GMT -6
its been awhile since i checked in last, been busy with work mostly lol since you guys saw last ive ordered all the parts and got the block cleaned, heads are being cleaned now. i also went ahead and pulled the pistons out to check the wrist pins, there all good
all taped up ready to get drilled and taped for studs tomorrow
and being over carfull i taped the bottem end oil pasages
cleaned the pistons
bobsblue has been a huge help, helping me with studs , and tips on installing them. here's some of his advice Hey awesome! Their recommendation is to put snug-fitting (to the sleeve, 3/8"?) all-thread into the hole and tack-weld the sleeve to the thread (at least two sides, they are tight!) then slide a spacer (large socket) over the all-thread and then a washer and nut. as you tighten the nut it should pull out the sleeve.
I didn't have access to a welder so I ended up literally drilling them out. I used another slightly larger bit and just carefully wallowed out the sleeves until they fell out. Not the best solution but it worked ok. Dremel tool might be better, but I didn't have one at the time.
They don't mention in the instructions that the 4 holes in the jig are not perfectly square, so you should draw a horizontal line on both sides (once you figure out the correct orientation.) and be aware that you can only rotate it 180 degrees, never 90. Oh, when tightening the jig down, make sure the target hole is aligned perfectly by looking at the concentric circles in the hole. You should see a thin, even (even thickness all around) ring of aluminum that you will be removing. Centering is critical.
Tons of chips and cutting oil, makes a huge mess. The better you tape up the block/cylinders (especially the valley) the easier cleanup will be later. Try saran wrap around the block (just thought of that.)
If possible, use a drill-press adapter to keep your drill perfectly perpendicular. I had to bend one stud after installation due to imperfect drilling. Bending a stud is no trivial task. Don't do it in the block or you may crack it. We clocked it and removed it and I did calculations and got the bend perfect first try.
Probably a good idea to go ahead and order another drill bit and tap (Granger.com) because the bits are fragile and the tap wears out. The tap provided did great for one side but the last few studs were really tight going in. Maybe proper cutting fluid would have helped, not sure.
Before you glue the studs in, test fit them all and test fit the heads, being careful with the head surfaces obviously. Two-man job at least, a third set of eyes would be better.
Hope this helps, and if it does, include it in your build thread.
Cheers, Bob
thanks for veiwing
1996 olds aurora, 13,000 miles on rebuilt engine with NSP studs. SOLD
2005 Grand Prix GTP,SD headers with no cat, cone intake, MSD wires.
Post by lanceslambos on Aug 23, 2011 10:16:39 GMT -6
coming along nicely! now is the time to throw somr 4.6 exhaust manifolds on it while the motor is out.
'98 Aurora w/ Accurate Engines port & polished VIN Y 4.6 bored.30 over, NSP stage 3 PCM, K&N intake, performance exhaust, Razzi skirts, Lund wing, strut bar, custom paint, went on a diet and lost 160 lb.
Post by oldsmobile99 on Aug 24, 2011 8:17:23 GMT -6
yea lance i was going to do that if i can find some for a resonable price. and nelson its just a 4.0, and i dont beleive the 4.6 heads will work on the 4.0. simply because the 4.6 cylinder is slighty larger in diaminter than the 4.0.
Last Edit: Aug 24, 2011 8:20:37 GMT -6 by oldsmobile99
1996 olds aurora, 13,000 miles on rebuilt engine with NSP studs. SOLD
2005 Grand Prix GTP,SD headers with no cat, cone intake, MSD wires.
Post by oldsmobile99 on Aug 24, 2011 22:15:55 GMT -6
thanks guys, yes it does take some patentice. i think all my patentice go's to this car cause i dont seem to have any patenice any other time lol beastboy id take you up on that but ive got my hands full lol i also helped out a fellow aurora driver and acna member, i cant remeber his username. but we've been friends for awhile now. we changed out his harmanic balencer on his 01 3.5
Well today i got the front bank drilled and taped for studs, i know it dosent seem like much but i took my time and made sure it was perfect. also ran into some trouble, i didnt file down the bit. so on the third hole it bite to hard and snaped in half.
wasent to much of a set back, went down to my local hardware store and bought the same length and size bit, just had to switch over the stop collor. but this one is a high speed steel bit, works better than the one suppleid
all the holes drilled and taped
thanks for veiwing
Last Edit: Aug 24, 2011 22:21:17 GMT -6 by oldsmobile99
1996 olds aurora, 13,000 miles on rebuilt engine with NSP studs. SOLD
2005 Grand Prix GTP,SD headers with no cat, cone intake, MSD wires.
Post by oldsmobile99 on Aug 24, 2011 22:53:50 GMT -6
The stud kit comes with a very detailed three page instructions packet. and ive always learned by taking stuff apart, so when disasembling and engine i pay close attention to some clues and ways to make repairing it easier. ive also rebuilt the 3800 that's in my LSS, so the bottem end is not really any thing new except for the two peice block design.
1996 olds aurora, 13,000 miles on rebuilt engine with NSP studs. SOLD
2005 Grand Prix GTP,SD headers with no cat, cone intake, MSD wires.
Post by oldsmobile99 on Aug 27, 2011 20:44:53 GMT -6
havent got much done the last few days, ive been at work. but my headgaskets showed up so hopefully them on sometime this week. anybody know if i should use copper headgasket spray or not ?
1996 olds aurora, 13,000 miles on rebuilt engine with NSP studs. SOLD
2005 Grand Prix GTP,SD headers with no cat, cone intake, MSD wires.
Post by beastboy1976 on Aug 29, 2011 16:33:42 GMT -6
Yeah awesome Job. I havent gotten alot done to Silver either. Been recovering from a slight heart attack that I had Thursday, but I am feeling much better now.
Tommy
1998 Toreador Red Metallic Aurora
Non Autobah, Gold Package, 15% tint.
Post by oldsmobile99 on Aug 29, 2011 23:33:09 GMT -6
thanks clutch1 and beastboy sorry to hear that, glad you feel better. and best of luck with your recovery !
finally got all the holes drilled and taped, hopeing to get the bottom end together wensday then heads on monday and then just butten everything up. those goals probably wont happen lol
also does anyone know the factory tourqe specs for the rod bolts ? those are the only ones i havent found. or if anyone has all the tourqe specs for the bottom end so i could double check my info lol
thanks
1996 olds aurora, 13,000 miles on rebuilt engine with NSP studs. SOLD
2005 Grand Prix GTP,SD headers with no cat, cone intake, MSD wires.
Post by oldsmobile99 on Aug 31, 2011 22:22:44 GMT -6
well got some stuff done today, got the pistons reinstalled
cleaned the lower section of the block.
got the bearings installed in the mains and rods
did run into a few problems as i started to assemble the bottom end. the angle meter that i bought today broke and didn't wanna read right, so probably just going to "stretch " the rod bolts the old fashioned way lol and also when bolting down the rod caps the bearings wanted to get stuck to the Assembly lube. I'm was using lucas witch is pretty thick, going to change to a different kind.
thanks for viewing
1996 olds aurora, 13,000 miles on rebuilt engine with NSP studs. SOLD
2005 Grand Prix GTP,SD headers with no cat, cone intake, MSD wires.