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Post by erw38 on Oct 4, 2004 16:14:00 GMT -6
Well I finally "fixed" the flashing light illness that took over my car and killed her battery. Here's what you'll need: Socket set or wrenches (specifically 10mm and 8mm in size) Phillips screwdriver 5mm or 3/16th nutdriver Contact cleaner (spray kind with plastic straw attached) Compressed air (with plastic stray attached) Now here's how to tackle the problem: Step 1 - Disconnect negative battery terminal from battery. You will use the 8mm socket here. Step 2 - Disconnect 10 amp air bag fuse on drivers side of dash (hidden by the door)  The correct fuse is on the top righ of the fuse box (the picture was taken from a wierd angle) Step 3 - Remove sound absorber (black in color) from just above the pedals.  There are three phillips screws holding on the panel.  Also, disconnect the air bag circut (the thing with the yellow tag on it) by first pulling out the green plastic lock thats in there. Just pull that green thing staight out and then seperate the two connections. Step 4 - Remove two 10mm screws from dash colored knee bolster (the part just below the steering wheel).  There are two 10mm screws that you can see and another two you can't see yet. Step 5 - Pry out button panels on either side of the steering wheel. The ones with the twillite and the truck buttons.  Grab where the plexiglass meets the panel with the buttons and pull out in a downward motion. Step 6 - Use the 10mm socket to remore the remaining two screws the hold the knee bolster in place.  Step 7 - Use the nutdriver to remove six screws that hold the steering wheel colums cover on.  The three that secure the bottom are easy to see. The three that secure the bottom to the top aren't. There is one that is in the top left hand corner of the tilt lever housing and yhe other two are on either side of the steering wheel column (where the top right and top left sides of the column meet the plexiglass). Step 8 - Before you can remore the steering column cover you need to remove the trim piece that goes around the ignition switch (the piece with the words OFF,ACC, RUN and START on it). Just grab the piece and pull it straight out. Step 9 - I forget to snap a picture of this, but if you look directly down the turn signal stalk (you may have to hold the rubber piece out of the way)you will see some screws. If you look to the right of those screws (closer to the stalk itself) you will see six little holes. You will now want to take your contact cleaner and spray it into each of these holes. Follow your application of the contact cleaner with an application of compessed air (so you can get any crud out of there that is loosened by the contact cleaner). Repeat this procedure 10-12 times while lubing the switch (turn the headlight switch through each of its three "clicking" points). Step 10 - Wait about 30 minutes (I waited for about an hour) so you can be sure everything is dry. Step 11 - Reconnect the battery. Step 12 - Take for a test drive. Step 13 - Time to put everything back together. Remember to reconnect the airbag circut and to put back in the fuse (of course have the engine off for this part). I got this fix from thumpin455 over at www.automotiveforums.com. I would like to thank him for posting the fix for this problem. Here is the original thread that this fix was posted in. |
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Post by JimW on Oct 4, 2004 16:39:44 GMT -6
Thats great information right there Elan, thanks for posting this.
Sticky worthy and congrats on a job well done, looks like a simple enough solution to a very annoying problem.
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Post by omegaic on Oct 5, 2004 1:49:52 GMT -6
If only I had read this before installing that switch...  |
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Post by erw38 on Oct 5, 2004 12:23:23 GMT -6
Out of curiousity, how much did you pay for the switch?
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Post by omegaic on Oct 6, 2004 0:26:38 GMT -6
About $2. The pictures will explain...  |
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Post by erw38 on Oct 6, 2004 20:27:45 GMT -6
About $2. The pictures will explain... Huh? Did you just buy a toggle switch and wire in in there? |
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Post by omegaic on Oct 6, 2004 23:54:22 GMT -6
Yes, but it is very clever.
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Post by MONEYMARK23 on Jun 22, 2005 0:08:25 GMT -6
I had the same problem, paid $165 for the relay switch inside the dash on the driver's side. The problem was still there for about a week and just went away on it's own (very weird). It's been almost a year now since it's acted up.  |
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Post by vojtazbrna on Jun 22, 2005 21:41:24 GMT -6
Hey guys,
I'm not sure if my poblem has something to do with this or not. I described this problem on the V2 and got some suggestions. Before I got to fixing it the site went down with all the info. So now I'm back where I started. My problem does not involve flashing lights. It happens only sometimes and only within a minute after I start the car. I start the car and it clicks. The same clicking sound like when you apply the turning signal. Sometimes it clicks only once sometimes a couple more times and sometimes it goes wild and clicks like it wants to shoot me. It never lasts more than a minute. It is annoying, but not a big problem. I remember that some of the suggestions I got had something to do with this multifunstions switch. Does that sound right?
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Post by erw38 on Jun 23, 2005 11:30:26 GMT -6
Yes. That is how mine started too. So, I would say that you are on the right track.
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Post by MadMatt on Jun 23, 2005 12:22:05 GMT -6
vojtazbrna, I found this on a different forum. I have the same issue as you. I don't know if it's the answer but it's something I guess.  It (the clicking noise) is actually not in the dash per se, it is the turn signal switch with its' wires crossed with the brake pedal. GM routed all wiring through that bad boy and it has gone amuck on the Aurora, especially the 95 and 96. Does the clicking sound go away when you step on the brake? If the answer is yes leave it alone and do not worry about it. |
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Post by vojtazbrna on Jun 23, 2005 14:36:33 GMT -6
thanks elan. i'll try the brake pedal first and then I'll probably clean it up. it was going on like crazy this morning and then it just disappeared for the rest of the day.
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Post by Roop on Jul 2, 2005 18:14:05 GMT -6
check this out: www.oldsmobileforums.com/forums/index.php?s=cc71914769091cf87fd47f248b098ad1&showtopic=1880in my case the signal clicking was due to loose fuses. i don't know which one, i just did em all. before i did them, i was driving home. i stepped on the breaks. when i released it the car was clicking like crazy. when i stepped on the breaks again, it stopped. as soon as it warmed up (5-10 minutes later) the clicking stopped. after securing all fuses in the driver side door and under the back seat it hasn't done the insane clicking this again. |
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Post by eurora on Jul 3, 2005 4:30:07 GMT -6
It’s a great instruction, but may I suggest a correction?
In step2 author refers to AirBag fuse as “on the top righ of the fuse box”. Actually correct one is on the top LEFT of the fuse block.
Also, in addition of removing the lock cylinder bezel in step8, I’d suggest to remove tilt lever knob also, so you do not need bend lower cover so much when removing. It’s hooked with one screw you can only see after loosening covers themselves. Just remember to put it back before you inserting lower cover screws back.
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Post by vojtazbrna on Jul 18, 2005 20:56:53 GMT -6
so i finally had the time this weekend to do this. the instructions were great, even though i needed to run to a local hardware store to get a deep 3/16 socket 'cause you need a very deep one:) it took me a while, but i got there and cleaned it. now, i didn't find a contact cleaner so i cleaned it with "electric parts cleaner" that i found in a local auto parts store. that stuff looked very heavy duty so i was affraid to use too much of it. anyway, i guess i'm gonna have to get the right contact cleaner with some compressed air because the clicking has gotten much worse, actually. now it comes up EVERY time i start it and sometimes while driving. i guess i just tickled it a little bit, but didn't do the whole thing. that sucks, but now at least it won't take me that long:)
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Post by erw38 on Jul 18, 2005 21:11:28 GMT -6
They have what you need at home depot. Here is the contact cleanerAny office supply store will have compressed air though. Home depot will not let me hotlink, but if you go to their web pag at www.homedepot.com and search for contact cleaner, you will find it. |
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Post by vojtazbrna on Jul 22, 2005 18:02:00 GMT -6
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Post by erw38 on Jul 23, 2005 19:04:45 GMT -6
Check with the seller first to make sure it is full and complete though. Looks like what you need though.
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Post by vojtazbrna on Aug 18, 2005 21:44:43 GMT -6
it's been a while since i posted here, but i just have to. i did it again with the proper cleaner(however, i got it from Radioshack 'cause HD didn't have them) about three weeks ago. i did my best to clean that mofo and nothing happened. actually, it was clicking CONSTANTLY for three days after i did it. after that it got a little better, but it's been more than three weeks and it just keeps on clicking(usually only after start up and for about 20sec.) I also noticed that the "click" disables my cruise controle when it clicks. nothing else is wrong...no lights flashing, nothing. since i got my new radio with an amp, i don't hear the clicking that much anymore and don't pay attention to it, but i know it's still there. i guess i'll have to replace the multi. switch. actually, i'll have it looked at to see if it's the switch first and then replace it.
one more thing;when i apply the break it will always stop until i release it again.
maybe i just have a little different problem here.
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Post by erw38 on Aug 18, 2005 22:23:15 GMT -6
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Post by vojtazbrna on Aug 19, 2005 9:42:49 GMT -6
you mean this?
"If your headlights continue to stay on after cleaning the switch then you will want to check inside the Lamp Control Module. The LCM box easily snaps apart after removing 4 phillips head screws. There are 3 small coil relays on the circuit board. You'll probably need a magnifying glass to look at the contacts on them. These contacts can develop a build-up that can close off the gap. Use the tip of sharp knife to scrape off the high spots, and then check the contacts to make sure they now work OK."
my lights are never on. this problem does not affect my lights at all. i don't think it would be the problem. will check it out though. where can i find the LCM box?
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Post by erw38 on Aug 20, 2005 20:25:49 GMT -6
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Post by harveym on Oct 4, 2005 22:08:57 GMT -6
Great stuff - thanks saved me $500 -$600 must have deep 3/16 or nut driver. Good photos.
1996 with 52K
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Post by aarcuda on Sept 30, 2006 21:47:05 GMT -6
well, I came home tonight and saw the lights on the aurora flash. then flash again. I opened the door and they flashed again and I heard a clicking noise. I guess its my turn now.
I unscrewed the black cover under the dash and unplugged the flat 6 wire connector to the LCM and the clicking and the flashing stopped. Sigh, looks like Im need of some contact cleaner......
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Post by aarcuda on Oct 1, 2006 12:35:32 GMT -6
well it appears that the operation was a success. The job has been completed and everything is put back together and so far so good. no clicking. no flashing. my fingers are crossed that this is a permanent fix
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Post by aarcuda on Aug 13, 2007 11:39:51 GMT -6
it's been a while since i posted here, but i just have to. i did it again with the proper cleaner(however, i got it from Radioshack 'cause HD didn't have them) about three weeks ago. i did my best to clean that mofo and nothing happened. actually, it was clicking CONSTANTLY for three days after i did it. after that it got a little better, but it's been more than three weeks and it just keeps on clicking(usually only after start up and for about 20sec.) I also noticed that the "click" disables my cruise controle when it clicks. nothing else is wrong...no lights flashing, nothing. since i got my new radio with an amp, i don't hear the clicking that much anymore and don't pay attention to it, but i know it's still there. i guess i'll have to replace the multi. switch. actually, i'll have it looked at to see if it's the switch first and then replace it. one more thing;when i apply the break it will always stop until i release it again. maybe i just have a little different problem here. I think this is a different problem. The fact that stepping on the brakes seems to make you think its something else. plus the lights dont flash when this happens, right? Ive had the same type of clicking noise as you and mine, like yours, went away when you step on the brake. but mine doesnt do it very often (maybe once every 7 months) so I dont think about it much |
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Post by dwizane on Sept 1, 2007 8:03:31 GMT -6
My parking lights and dash lights started flashing and adventually i couldnt turn them off at all. I didnt use contact cleaner, just compressed air. I blew thru the holes and ran the switch thru its positions.No more light problems. I used a 5mm socket to take off the cover. I had problems getting to 2 bolts so opted to drill out the holes to make them bigger, then my socket fit. Otherwise was easy fix.
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Post by auroradon on Sept 20, 2007 16:39:05 GMT -6
I had the same exact problem ... shop quoted me $750 to replace the guts in the steering column. I politely thanked him and looked up this forum and did exactly as you outlined. Except I couldn't find the air bag connection to unplug. My car is a 1999 model with 130,000 miles. Thanks again ... I am sitting hear enjoying a beer after an apparent successful repair ... thanks again for all the help, I'll be using this board again in the future.
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Post by erw38 on Sept 20, 2007 22:22:47 GMT -6
Glad people are still getting use out of this dusty post.
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phydeaux
Aurora Passenger
I keep extra bearings handy in case I can't fix it with a hammer
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Post by phydeaux on Sept 28, 2007 11:16:55 GMT -6
Well, guess who's turn it is to buy a can of contact cleaner this weekend. Started a while back but very infrequent. Got in her yesterday at lunch and headed for Burger King. I was impatient in line so I kicked her into neutral and let off the brake. Ticking went ber-frikkin-zerk. Applied the brake and it shut right up. Let off the brake and it started up again going like gangbusters. Rolled the steering wheel back and forth a few times, nothing. Messed with the MF switch and nothing. Back on the brake and it shut right up. Kicked her back into drive and figured what the heck, leave it be. It has stopped for now save for a few of it's normal random appearances. Does this sound like I'm on the right diagnostic track for this one?
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