Brake Job How To

[95rora]

For all you DIY'ers out there, here is the much requested brake job write up. Keep in mind that Im no professional, and doing the brakes on my 95 was kind of a learning experience as I've never quite encountered a system quite like the rear brakes on this car.

Tools needed:
Jack, Jack stands, standard and metric sockets, 3/8 hex head socket, torque wrench, open end wrenches, screwdriver to pry off lug covers, large C-clamps, piston reset tool. Any I forgot here will be mentioned in the steps.

1. Park car on fairly level ground.
2. While the car is on the ground, break the lug bolts loose.
3. Jack up car according to the manual for jacking locations and support with jackstands. (If only doing front brakes set parking brake).
4. Remove wheels/tires.

Front brake change:

When you take the front wheels off you will see the rotor caliper assembly as seen below.



On the top and bottom of the back side of the caliper you'll find the bolts that hold the caliper assembly on the rotor.

Take your 3/8" hex head socket and loosen these bolts and set them aside. Remove the caliper (this may take some prying with a screwdriver).

Do not undue the brake line from the caliper assembly unless you want to bleed the brake system later. (in the later pictures youll notice I had to because we could not get the piston to go in and busted the bleeder valve, thus we bought new calipers).

With the caliper free the rotor will slide off the hub.



Open the new rotor and clean thoroughly with brake parts cleaner and a clean rag as shown. Take caution not to touch the contact surface of the rotor, grease will ruin it and your pads. (See how I am holding it in the middle).





Place new rotor on hub assembly. If you are not replacing, just machining your rotors you still want to clean them.

Remove your old pads by snapping them out of their holders.

Now undue the cap on the brake fluid resevoir to release the pressure on the pistons.

With the C-clamp, place the base on the back of the caliper and the moving part on the edge of the piston and start to slowly increase the pressure pushing the piston back into the caliper. (I do not have a picture of this as I bought new calipers but look at the pic of the new caliper to see what I mean with clamp placement).



With the piston pushed in, install the new pads. The outer one will slide over the mounts with tabs. The inner pad clips into the piston (you really can't mess this up, they only go on one way).

Inner pad:


Outer pad:


With the new pads installed, slide the caliper over the rotor and line it up with the mounting holes on the wheel hub assembly, and insert the bolts.

Tighten up the bolts good and tight, maybe check FSM on torque specs.



Side Note:
If you find that the piston will not push in you can open up a bleeder valve or undue the brake line for easier working.

If you undue the brake line, make sure you replace the washers (one goes on between the bolt and brake line and the other goes between the caliper and the brake line). However you have to bleed the brake system once finished.



*End side note.

Rear brakes: (Do not set emergency brake or you cant get the rear brakes apart).

With the wheels off youll see the caliper/rotor assembly like shown:



Note the ABS/Wheel speed sensor. We disconnected it just incase something were to happen.



The rear calipers are a bit different. There are two bolts on the back of the assembly that look like they have nothing to do with the caliper. This is how you pop the assembly loose from the rotor. These are located on the same piece the WSS/ABS sensor is mounted (An 18mm socket is used here).





On the bottom of the caliper (much like the front) there is a bolt that you want to remove (12mm socket). The caliper is two pieces, one piece that holds the piston and the other that holds the pads.



By loosening this bolt, the pad assembly can be rotoated around and removed. Just be sure not to damage the boot.

At this time you can get a clear picture of the piston. I went ahead and bought the reset tool just for the sake of easiness.





With a 3/8 drive long extension and a ratchet, start resetting the piston my turning it in a clockwise (tightening) direction until the piston is all the way in.



Clean the new rotor and place on clean rag for now. Install new pads into pad assembly. For the brand of pads I bought, the inner and outer don't matter but make sure not to confuse left and right.

With the pad facing up and in the form of a smiley face, the left side will have a clip on the upper left, right side clip on the upper right.



Now slide the pad assembly over the rotor. The, making sure to hold everything in place slide the guide into the caliper in the opposite manner of removing the pad holders. This step takes two people but I found its the easiest way.

Now rotate the whole assembly into position over the hub and put it back on the car. You may have to turn the hub a little to line up the rotor and make sure not to touch the rotor/pad surface.



Now line up the holes in the back and install the bolts and tighten.

Install the bolt on the bottom of the caliper that allowed you to remove the pad housing and tighten (might take a little persuasion and movement so dont tighten the support bolts just yet).

Tighten everything up and re-connect the sensor plug.

Top off the brake fluid and re-install the cap.

Start the car and pump the brakes to check for leaks (there shouldnt be any but just to make sure).

Reinstall wheels/tires and torque lugs to 100 lb-ft.

Drive and enjoy a job well done.

If no complications this job can be done in an afternoon following these instructions. Once we figured out how to reinstall the rear pads the other side took about 10 minutes. Fronts you can have done in maybe 45 minutes per side. If anything is unclear send me a PM and Ill try and edit and elaborate on the details.

[TJM]

Absolutely awesome write-up! You did it like a pro, gloves and all.

One note; in the captured pic below note the dark areas on the hub face. The hubs MUST be scraped clean-to-the-bone of ALL debris, rust slag etc to a like-new condition to ensure long-lasting no-vibe brakes.

In addition, I use anti-sieze compound on the hub face before installing the rotor. This keeps the moisture out so the next brake job is a little easier.

[foxhole]

What do you have to do with the rotor when changing the brake pads?

[95rora]

Either place it back on the hub (for the fronts) or clean it and set it on a clean rag for the time being. Unless your question refers to just changing brake pads and not doing the rotors, then you take them in to a machine shop and have them turned. Arnold motor supply, OReilly Auto Parts, and Napa I think will machine them for you. If you take them to a brake shop like Midas to have them machined Im not sure theyll do it without trying to say something is wrong and getting more money out of you.

[Wacko]

Nice job indeed. You might want to put a coat of wax on the new rotors to keep 'em nice and shiney. NO! Don't do that. Kidding.

Some folks have talked about using loctite/thread lock on the bolts that hold the caliper bracket (and the caliper bolts themselves?) They can back out and cause some trouble. Someone keep me honest here.

[erw38]

Great write up. Nice work. Want to come do my brakes now?

*Stickied*

[Aurora40]

erw38 said:

*Stickied*

I added it to this thread: 1995-99 Aurora Maintenance "How-To's" and unstickied it. Otherwise there'd be about 15 stickies at the top of this forum.

[95rora]

erw38 said:

Great write up. Nice work. Want to come do my brakes now?

*Stickied*

You bet, I work for beer. ;D

[erw38]

95rora said:

You bet, I work for beer. ;D

Not a problem

[scottydl]

It's write-up I've been waiting for!! ;D Thanks for doing that, looks great and I will certainly be utilizing it soon for replacing my '99 pads & rotors. The parts are sitting in my front hallway just itching to be installed.

95rora said:

Drive and enjoy a job well done.

As you complete this step, remember the importance of proper seasoning/bedding of the new brake parts. Here's a short-but-informative webpage explaining on what that is and how to do it:

www.shotimes.com/brakes/part1.html

The Hawk HPS box my brake pads came in also have pad bedding instructions, so each brand might give slightly different recommendations. Check yours to be sure.

[Wacko]

scottydl said:

The parts are sitting in my front hallway

If you're married, I suspect your wife is thrilled about this.

[95rora]

Yeah, as far as seating the pads goes since my parents have a nice almost quarter mile long driveway I drove forward and backwards applying some light break pressure and hard break pressure and then rechecked for possible but unlikely leaks before road testing. Also while still on jackstands we spun the wheels (back only of course) and I applied the breaks just to get the pistong lined back up.

[scottydl]

wacko said:

scottydl said:

The parts are sitting in my front hallway

If you're married, I suspect your wife is thrilled about this.

Eh, yeah ... I am married and she wasn't thrilled at first. Let me say that the parts *are* in boxes, but now it's like they're a permanent fixture or furniture. We're all used to it. With any luck, they won't be there much longer anyway...

[vojtazbrna]

finally did it today. figured i'd point out the problems i had so others could avoid them.
first of all, mine is a 99 and it's a little different. the front calipers are a little different. all 4 wheels took me like 3-4 hours. i started with rear right one because i was bleeding all of them. then rear left one, front right and front left(closest to the master cylinder). i took my time...had the whole day, no rush. it takes a little while to figure it out, but it's pretty easy if you go along this write-up.
now the problems i had. the bolts on front calipers were really tight and there wasn't enough room to fit my torque wrench in there. i had to use my foot on my little ratchet...i then found a way to use the torque wrench, but you'll need a small extension(about 3inch) and the room is still tight. so that took me a while. my biggest problem was that the bleeder screw(on the front caliper) got stuck at open and i stripped it. had to run to a local parts store and got a two new ones($2.50, luckily they had them), so you might get them before you do this job(if you plan on bleeding the brakes). it was only the front ones that were in a bad shape. and you will need a 10mm open wrench for those.
the rear ones didn't really give me any problems once i figured it out.only thing i can think of is when you're using the reseting tool to push the pistons back you have to really push the pistons. i started slowly and gently and it would just turn but nothing went in. you have to push them while you turn.
i used some kind of red(heavy duty) thread locker just like you guys suggested somewhere here. the locktite was like $13 so i got a smaller one for $6(not locktite).
i guess that's pretty much it. i must thank 95rora for this write-up. it gave me a lot of confidence and helped a lot.

[TJM]

vojtazbrna said:

my biggest problem was that the bleeder screw(on the front caliper) got stuck at open and i stripped it. had to run to a local parts store and got a two new ones($2.50, luckily they had them), so you might get them before you do this job(if you plan on bleeding the brakes). it was only the front ones that were in a bad shape. and you will need a 10mm open wrench for those.

Always try to use a 6 pnt socket or tubing wrench on bleeders

[95rora]

Yes, thats a good point TJ. We stripped one bleeder valve on the front of mine trying to loosen it with a wrench. Do not do this.

[BNICOV]

Great write-up!! I'm probably going to do my own brakes (front and rear) sometime in the near future. New rotors and new ceramic pads all the way around. I've got to find the piston tool however, everything else I've got (impact gun for wheels, sockets, jack and stands, and finally hands that know how to get dirty, it's been a while).

[crashmedic]

I just did all 4 on my '97, took me about 3 hours for all 4 ( with a walk to the local shop cause i forgot to buy brake clean and anti seize and no airtools, i dont have a compressor anymore ). if you know what you are doing and have airtools you should be able to do each wheel in about 20 minutes barring any unforseen problems. You don't need to buy the tool for the rear calipers a needle nose pliers works quite well. I bought all the parts off of ebay, 4 rotors and ceramic pads $193 shipped, and the parts are all Bendix. The guy I got the parts from is in Illinois and he has lots of brand new parts. If anyone is interested I will post a link to his website, just let me know.

[BACK2LIFE]

great write up! but i would like to add a few comments to make some things a little easier because i do them almost every week, make sure to apply disc brake quiet to back of your pads,and put anti seize on the front and rear caliper slides/bushings. not on the threads of the bolts though. when breaking loose bleeders heat the area around the bleeder,let it cool a little and it should come aloose. if you dont have a torch you can use propane torch(usually under$10) but will take a little longer. if you are gonna bleed anyway or putting on new calipers or wheel cylinders,or brake lines, put a liitle anti seize on the threads of the bleeders and lines also (,youll be thankful in the future!) last when breaking loose tight bolts use a breaker bar or a ratchet with long handle or an old floor jack handle slipped over the end, and it will come loose without alot of straining. also try pb blaster on frozen threads it works great!

[BuccaneersFan]

back2life said:

great write up! but i would like to add a few comments to make some things a little easier because i do them almost every week, make sure to apply disc brake quiet to back of your pads,and put anti seize on the front and rear caliper slides/bushings. not on the threads of the bolts though. when breaking loose bleeders heat the area around the bleeder,let it cool a little and it should come aloose. if you dont have a torch you can use propane torch(usually under$10) but will take a little longer. if you are gonna bleed anyway or putting on new calipers or wheel cylinders,or brake lines, put a liitle anti seize on the threads of the bleeders and lines also (,youll be thankful in the future!) last when breaking loose tight bolts use a breaker bar or a ratchet with long handle or an old floor jack handle slipped over the end, and it will come loose without alot of straining. also try pb blaster on frozen threads it works great!

You said you do brakes almost every week so I have a question; when I do my brakes should I drain all the old brake fluid out and put new fluid in?

[vojtazbrna]

I don't do brakes every week, but if you want to know my opinion then here it is. If the fluid is anything but clear then I would completely flush it. Problem is that you won't be able to flush the ABS so some will stay there unless you plug it into a computer.
I thought mine was completely black because the reservoir was all black, but when I opened it the fluid was nice and clear. So make sure you check the fluid before replacing it.

[BACK2LIFE]

if you areonly doing pad/shoes and/or rotor replacing, its not necessary. but if your fluid is very discolored,old and dark to be safe and lessen the chance of premature failure then yes. but i think your would have to be pressure bled. you can cheat by pushing fluid through the open brake lines or bleeders with the brake pedal slowly and keep filling master cylinder back up until fluid runs out clear. then bleed the whole system as normal. otherwise take to brake shop to have it done

[BuccaneersFan]

I'm replacing the pads and rotors on the front, the rear was done a while back, and I'll check the fluid then. Thanks for the help guys.

[scottydl]

Question about the tools needed for this job (for 95rora or anyone who knows)... what size torque wrench is needed? A big one that measures ft-lbs and retails for around $35, or a smaller one that measured in-lbs and retails for around $20? Also when I was trying to buy the 3/8" torx (6-point star, right?) socket that I needed, there were oodles of them available... E-8, E-10, E-12, etc. were the various sizes I saw. Which one specifically is needed, and/or could someone post a photo of theirs so I know what shape I need? I've gotta stock up my tool inventory for this job, and I just want to make sure I have the right stuff.

[95rora]

Scotty, as far as torque wrenches get one that measures ft-lbs. If you can find one, get one where you slide the handle down and twist to set it to the proper torque, much better than the needle type where you have to read how much force you are putting on the bolts. These type of wrenches are a little more expensive but well worth it.

As far as the torx bit, your best bet would be to look for a set that has various sizes including the 3/8" size needed. The label will say English or standard unit torx set and give the range of sizes. The E-10, E-12..... that you referred to is I believe metric but Im not sure. I dont have any pictures of the set I bought (thought about it after the fact) but you should be able to find them fairly easy. If you have any other questions send me a PM or something and ill get right back to ya (Maybe even run to the parts store and check out for sure the name of the tools).

[BuccaneersFan]

I did the front brakes last Saturday and on my 96 the caliper bolts don't take a torx bit, they require a hex bit (looks like a small piece of allen wrench stuck in a socket), same size though 3/8.

[95rora]

Ah, thanks for pointing that out BucsFan. I completely messed up the tool. It is in fact a hex type bit. Sorry for any confusion.

[95rora]

Original post modified about the hex bit instead of torx.

[BuccaneersFan]

95rora said:

Ah, thanks for pointing that out BucsFan. I completely messed up the tool. It is in fact a hex type bit. Sorry for any confusion.

No problem, I had neither type of bit anyway. I also forgot that I even needed a special bit to get the bolts out, so when I got to the point where I was going to remove the bolts I saw that is was a hex bit and then when to the auto parts store and bought it. ;D

Another thing, I was using your write up and the service manual in conjunction and in the service manual you would think it would mention that you needed a hex bit and what size it was, but nope no mention at all.

[BACK2LIFE]

harbor freight tools is a pretty nice place to start off getting knick knack tools if there is one in your area. also make sure to lift your car safely and that you have a c-clamp to push the caliper piston back in. remember safety is first!