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Post by genone on Apr 24, 2012 12:26:51 GMT -6
This car was never intended to be a racer. I bought it because I have wanted one, and I knew exactly what I was buying. I didn't, however, account for the complete and total lack of aftermarket or OEM performance support. It seems the only way for me to tune it is by adapting an LS1 PCM. There are no performance oriented valve bodies for the 4T80E. There are no cams, other than the vin 9s that I originally wanted but have since changed my mind. It isn't very difficult to get a Northstar running on an 0411(LS) PCM, but it would be near impossible to get all of the Aurora's electronics operational. I'd like 300hp, and it doesn't appear I'll be able to get it. I work for a very big aftermarket performance company and we do engineer and build parts, I'm thinking its almost worth looking into opening up a Northstar division. There are millions of these things out there, and nobody has so much as headers for them. I'm calling SCT right now and finding out what it will take for them to get a Northstar PCM opened up for me to change the parameters in.
I can say that my bone stock Aurora just handed a 95 SC300(these have the 2JZ-GE engine, same as Supra but more power) its ass both from a dig and from a roll. I'll post videos later.
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Post by lkraft92 on Apr 24, 2012 12:37:50 GMT -6
If u can get your company to make some aftermarket parts for northstars, I can about guarantee that we will make u a god on this forum. Make sure u keep us updated on what u come up with.
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Post by dylanm on Apr 24, 2012 13:22:02 GMT -6
sorry guys
2jz > N* (Gte's can handle 700+hp with stock internals and have hit 1500+rwhp modded)
1uz vs N* I'd say tie, both are used for swaps and are very comparable in terms of displacement and hp/tq figures.
Bone stock they are all great engines its just a shame northstars never saw aftermarket (headers, pcm tuning or itb's, cams, ect...). Anyone consider an eaton s/c from a 3.8? : )
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Post by sall on Apr 24, 2012 13:45:12 GMT -6
There is one reputable company able to tune '96-'99 PCMs. westersgarage.eidnet.org/GM.html#OLDSMOBILEaurorah.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=Zoom&action=display&thread=24464&page=1I say one because AJ (caleditor) avoids answering any questions. Offered to do a tune for free months ago. Claims 'Tom' had to send him PCMs. I offered to mail him a PCM and has avoided any and all opportunity to prove himself. I agree though. Other than N* performance projects which ultimately stalled progress and was abandoned AFAIK, not much else has been done. From our brief PM conversations I think you(genone) could bring some new opportunities on board.
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Post by genone on Apr 24, 2012 20:50:28 GMT -6
Oh yeah, I'm a 2JZ fan for sure. Matter of fact today I replaced an AC compressor on one. Other than having to fight the power steering lines after the unit was unbolted, it was the easiest R&R on an AC compressor you can do. 5 bolts, 3 nuts and one electrical connector. All I needed was a 14mm and 12mm socket(and a breaker bar, Toyota seems to torque everything to 9,000lbs per square inch). While I was at is I added an oil and filter change for free, just the price of the parts. The filter is in a stupid location and when you loosen it the oil drips onto the cradle, no way to prevent it since it is sideways. I'll get some pics up later. For the most part the 2JZ is a breeze to work on. Tons of room and most of the bolts are easily accessible. GM could learn something.....
I'm slowly gathering information for the Northstar owner's needs and wants. SCT is *supposed* to be getting back to me on whether or not they will attempt to break into the tables. If they can get there, I can tune the rest. I just need to be able to open the tables. The way it works is the tuner reads and copies the factory tune. Then I will change what I feel necessary to the parameters and the tuner will add that to the factory tune and reload it into the car via the OBDII port. Simple, really. The issue here is that SCT hasn't attempted to crack the Northstar, they haven't felt the demand was there. I'm sure I can tune the OBDI cars, I've got chip burners and about a million different programs. What I know I can do is put together some proper intake and exhaust systems. Our cars would be unique, the chassis aren't the same underneath as the Cadi cars. Lowest quantity I can get pre-manned is 50 units but I'd be able to do true application specific bolt ons. I'd skip the cat back and go straight for a complete replacement from the Y pipe with cat, muffler and all. Since we already own a house brand muffler line I'd be able to cut some cost there. Based on other orders we have done like this the systems would be around $400 including shipping. I think I'd be able to pitch this to my owner without much hassle. Deeper mods might take some coaxing and a marketing plan. I know this brake system I am building will draw some interest, especially considering it will work on far more than just the Aurora. I can get Godspeed Wheels Omega II drilled in 5x115 if I can get 100 sets ordered. Those things are awesome looking and on our cars they would flat out shine. 18x9s in +36mm should be perfect.
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Post by shelbyracing on Apr 25, 2012 9:45:32 GMT -6
Couldn't you build an intake manifold spacer tuned correctly to consider it a tuned intake runner?
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NinEFivEFourOH
Aurora Passenger
How about me and you, in the back of my Oldsmobile...
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Post by NinEFivEFourOH on Apr 29, 2012 22:24:45 GMT -6
I currently have a project going on with my Aurora that is really going out on a limb...
There IS a company that makes cams for these motors, CHRFAB (Cadillac Hot Rod Fabricators), but they are mainly for Dirt cars and hot rods and such... I bought a set of the 272 cams (the mildest grind) for my engine and hopefully the car will produce more power as well as still be streetable.
I am going to also attempt headers on this car using a kit that a company called "Icengineworks" makes, to assemble as effective of an equal length system as I can engineer. Was hoping to make a set and then duplicate it if others were interested.
Have done a lot of other things to my motor, ported intake manifold, Wiseco .020+ pistons, Eagle rods, ported TB, (which a billet CNC TB would be amazing on these motors, think 80mm and bigger), will be doing a true CAI, as well as true dual exhaust with an X-pipe. Hope to garner at least 300 to the wheels.
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Post by nelson480 on Apr 29, 2012 23:47:04 GMT -6
This car was never intended to be a racer. You're 1,000% right there!
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Post by genone on Apr 30, 2012 0:05:32 GMT -6
Have done a lot of other things to my motor, ported intake manifold, Wiseco .020+ pistons, Eagle rods, ported TB, (which a billet CNC TB would be amazing on these motors, think 80mm and bigger), will be doing a true CAI, as well as true dual exhaust with an X-pipe. Hope to garner at least 300 to the wheels. How did you go with +.020 pistons?? Make sure the CAI is not made of metal. Insulated plastic is far and away the best material for an intake. Metal under a hood gets hot, and if the intake tube is hot it isn't going to deliver cold air. I'm familiar with that company but those cams won't work on computer controlled cars. They will only work if you go with a carbureted set-up, which they do offer.
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NinEFivEFourOH
Aurora Passenger
How about me and you, in the back of my Oldsmobile...
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Post by NinEFivEFourOH on Apr 30, 2012 8:54:40 GMT -6
The intake I'm using will be a plastic type, you can see the one I made using the same setup on my Beretta: www.beretta.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=8482&start=210Not what I've been told as far as the cams go, Alan (The owner) told me himself that you can get the mildest set to work. I got a hell of a deal on the .020 pistons. I guess a Northstar engine builder was going out of business or something and had them left over, I paid like 400 something for them brand new. Another thing I was going to do was reroute the crossover pipe to underneath the car, instead of being choked between the engine and trans; that's a major choke point says everyone I've ever talked to about Northstars. That would be part of the header design.
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