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Post by guy48065 on Mar 31, 2015 7:33:05 GMT -6
My cruise control quickly went from fine to works sometimes to doesn't work at all. I've checked the fuse and the connector on the cable motor and they're good. Brakes are fine and not on while driving.
Any other common cause?
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Post by sall on Mar 31, 2015 8:02:39 GMT -6
Has the fuse ever blown? The AC orifice solenoid is on the same circuit. There was another thread with a 2g couple years back that fuse would blow when ac was engaged.
from the fsm:
*Brake Lamps Operating Correctly(switch may need adjusted)
*Binding of Throttle Linkage
*Minimal Slack in Cruise Control Adjustment
*EMI Interference(HID ballasts or other after market accessories)
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plato442
Aurora Driver
Life, Liberty, and the pursuit of Oldsmobile...
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Post by plato442 on Mar 31, 2015 8:08:27 GMT -6
heres some info i found on justanswer. might be a good start |
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bobsblue95
Super Moderator 
Scars of pleasure, scars of pain. Atmospheric changes make you sensitive again.
Posts: 3,125
Staff Member
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Post by bobsblue95 on Mar 31, 2015 11:32:15 GMT -6
I'd suspect the disengage switch at the brake pedal... maybe the adjustment has slipped or switch gone bad.
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Post by guy48065 on Mar 31, 2015 12:33:55 GMT -6
I wasn't sure if the second generation auroras had the extra switch for canceling cruise control and after reading the above replies it was looking like there isn't a switch. I think that's probably the most likely cause of the problem since the fuses and brake lights are ok and I don't get a cruise light on my dash anymore. I'll have to take the cover panel off and look up in there and try to adjust it.
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Post by guy48065 on Mar 31, 2015 17:10:41 GMT -6
I fiddled with it all the way home on my 50 minute ride. I could sometimes get it to work wiggling the stalk or pressing the On/Off switch hard. Once home I verified it's the On/Off switch with a meter on the grey On wire at the module connector (per the link posted earlier). I tried spraying contact cleaner inside the end of the stalk but this didn't help. I didn't like the idea of trying to replace the stalk so I opted to short the On wire to the Power wire (pink) so it "thinks" it's always turned on. On a test drive I verified it functions normally and can be canceled at the switch or by the brake. The rest of the stalk functions normally. Extract pins:  Short together:  |
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bobsblue95
Super Moderator
Scars of pleasure, scars of pain. Atmospheric changes make you sensitive again.
Posts: 3,125
Staff Member
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Post by bobsblue95 on Mar 31, 2015 17:19:34 GMT -6
Well done!
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98redaurora
Aurora Driver
This is not your fathers Oldsmobile.
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Post by 98redaurora on Mar 31, 2015 17:38:53 GMT -6
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Post by human on Apr 3, 2015 10:13:20 GMT -6
Nice! I wouldn't have thought of doing that. I have a similar problem with my '95, but I've isolated it to the switch on the brake pedal. When it starts malfunctioning, I can hook my toe under the brake pedal and jerk up sharply a couple of times and it will immediately go back to working. It's still not perfect. The slightest graze of my toe on the pedal will disengage it. I just haven't felt like tearing into it. There are more pressing things to be fixed on that car, like the leaky air conditioning.
Daily Driver: 2011 Impala LT
Weekend Toy: 1995 Aurora
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Post by ohiobuckeye on Apr 6, 2015 7:02:49 GMT -6
My quick fix for a sticking Brake Trans Solenoid Interlock was to disconnect it, and never got around to fooling with it any further. My cruise does not work and I don't really care, never been a fan, but was wondering if the two are related?
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