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Post by jamezruiz on May 1, 2015 22:55:17 GMT -6
CHECK CHARGE System message on D.I.C started appearing suddenly. if i am idling at a fast food restaurant's drive through in "DRIVE" and also voltage dips to 12.8-13.5 , it clears up and goes back to normal when i put it in "PARK" and the voltage reads 14.4? whats going on?
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Post by Toronado3800 on May 1, 2015 23:05:25 GMT -6
Something is wrong in the charging system as you have probably guessed. Could be a slipping belt(should squeal or something), dying alternator, dying battery, or in the case of my riding mower last week, corroded or lose cables.
What I did when this happened to me was pop up your back seat and go have you battery charged and tested. If it is bad, easy fix.
If it is not then clean the terminals there and I believe the junction box under the hood. Then drive to the parts store and have your alternator checked on the car.
If it is bad, ug. These are in a stupid spot. It isn't the end of the world and there is a good write up on here. I did mine over the course of an evening. Great chance to change your engine coolant. It is POSSIBLE I hear to do it radiator in but I was too block headed to understandnhow the fans pull off.
Good luck. Hopefully it is the battery or a corroded cable.
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Post by Toronado3800 on May 1, 2015 23:06:09 GMT -6
Your car does idle at 600 or more RPMS I assume.
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XJSman89
Administrator 
Posts: 6,309
Staff Member
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Post by XJSman89 on May 2, 2015 7:08:32 GMT -6
It is POSSIBLE I hear to do it radiator in but I was too block headed to understand how the fans pull off. It is indeed possible to change your alternator with the radiator in. The fans are held on by two bolts on the top corners per fan, then they slide up. (tabs hold them in at the bottom) I did mine not once but twice (reman unit that I put in was bad, ended up putting in a new one) and I left the radiator in both times. I went in through the passenger wheel well (and down from the top for one bolt I think) to undo the alt and actually removed it on the driver's side. I removed the air box and slid it up and out that way. Long job, but not exceptionally difficult. Especially when you've done it before! Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 3 using ProBoards |
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Post by jamezruiz on May 2, 2015 10:38:05 GMT -6
I do have a new *installed 10/2014* battery. AutoCraft Gold Battery, Group Size 79, 840 CCA... i'll go to the auto store and have them check the alternator after I check the terminals in the back seat. Thanks guys for all the input!
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Post by Toronado3800 on May 3, 2015 8:00:10 GMT -6
I do have a new *installed 10/2014* battery. AutoCraft Gold Battery, Group Size 79, 840 CCA... i'll go to the auto store and have them check the alternator after I check the terminals in the back seat. Thanks guys for all the input! So how has everything turned out? |
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Post by sall on May 3, 2015 8:27:38 GMT -6
Could be a lot of things. Bad/unplugged thermistor, loose connections at battery or underhood junction, no signal to alternator to turn on or the more common failing voltage regulator. I doubt your new battery is bad but it happens. Especially if you have let it go completely dead.
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Post by jamezruiz on Dec 6, 2019 12:54:06 GMT -6
Anyone have a picture of the Thermister?
I think I'm missing it in the battery area under seat. I have replaced alternator in June 2019. Replaced battery in July 2019.
I still get the check voltage at a steady 13.5-13.8volts from the DIC screen. I do have a volt meter as well to verify. I Believe I also have some sort of power drain somewhere.
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Post by jamezruiz on Dec 7, 2019 2:19:45 GMT -6
I found the Thermistor not attached to the positive cable. I attached it properly and will monitor any changes.
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RCA1186
Administrator
Rob
Go Pack Go!
Posts: 4,837 
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Post by RCA1186 on Dec 9, 2019 7:13:37 GMT -6
Let us know what you find out
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Post by jamezruiz on Dec 12, 2019 12:12:44 GMT -6
No changes yet. Still getting the "check Voltage" with the Thermistor attached to cable. Still ranging from 13.5-13.8 volts.
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aphex
Aurora Watcher
Posts: 50
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Post by aphex on Jan 4, 2020 11:56:48 GMT -6
Are you 100% sure you have the proper battery in and seated securely with enough slack on the wires? When I purchased my '98 years ago it had the wrong battery in it which was causing problems (including wire length / tension), and I kept replacing that incorrect battery type, which was designed for trucks with dual batteries.. Noticing the MSD truck plug wires was my first hunch that things weren't right - so make sure you have the right battery! I had messed around with the thermistor as well but that was a wild goose chase for me. Do you have a additional (modified) ground running from the alternator to the body? Valve cover gasket leaking hot oil onto the alternator? Other than what's already been mentioned with the serpentine belt, worn bearings or a failing diode could be other causes. I did burn through a remanufactured aftermarket alternator off ebay, that didn't last much more than a year with the wrong battery attached and the valve covers leaking hot oil onto it. After that failed I had a local company remanufacture the Delco that I originally pulled out & that has lasted a long time - given I did the valve covers and got the right battery installed. Can't speak for how much that additional alternator ground has helped - I could pull it off to see.
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