Post by genedjr on May 5, 2015 10:31:12 GMT -6
I have seen a couple of write-ups on this but none with pictures. So here goes...
I decided as part of tracking down a random misfire problem to replace all the intake gaskets. This includes the 8 o-rings on the manifold, the coupling between the manifold and the coolant crossover, 16 injector o-rings, and the throttle body gasket.
For those wondering how hard this is, 0 being a child can do it and 10 you need a full shop and trained mechanics - I consider this a 3. Pretty much anyone that can change a spark plug can do this.
Starting point:
First take off the cover and the air cleaner top. The cover has two nuts and is held in the back by a flange. The air cleaner top has two wing nuts and a hose clamp that can be loosened with a screw driver. Then just pull the air cleaner top off. Next carefully remove the tiny vacuum lines for the smog system and note how they are routed. The remove the crank case vent hose from the front valve cover. Here they are set aside.
Now remove the engine side of the coolant reservoir and fold it up and out of the way. I pushed it behind the hood support. NOTE: maybe about a 1/2 cup of coolant will leak out during the whole procedure you may want to plan for this. Here is the location after removal.
Now release the fuel lines. Please note that if the car has been run in the last 3 or 4 hours there will be pressure in the fuel line. Always check at the fuel rail valve that is on the left side of the fuel rail. Generally this has a black screw down cap protecting the valve. Be careful as this is gas. I did not get much out, maybe 1 oz to a rag. Note the safety locks on each line, they are easily removed with a screwdriver.
You will need a fuel line quick disconnect tool. They can be had from any parts store and the plastic ones are less than $5. To use the tool, place the tool around the fuel line with the cylinder facing up and side the tool up into the quick disconnect. You may (or may not) hear a click as it releases. Once the tool is slid up into the quick disconnect, pull the quick disconnect up and off. (Reinstalling is just pushing it back together until you hear it click, check by pulling up and seeing if it seated.)
Next pull the front wiring harness off by disconnecting the coil pack and each injector. For the injectors, there is a grey locking tab that needs to be pulled up. I chose to pull it off to get easier access to the lever to release the connector from the injector. Then I just slid the grey locking tab back on, but not seated.
I am putting several pictures of this as you really do not want to break this connector...
Next you need to remove the fuel rail. I know some people leave it on the intake, but I believe this is easier when reinstalling and I am replacing the o-rings. In addition to the four bolt/studs holding the fuel rail from the top, there is a nut near the quick disconnects that needs to be removed. The mount where this nut is has a grove allowing the fuel rail to be pulled up. NOTE: gas will leak out, be ready with a means of wiping it up. Once the bolt/studs are removed, gently pull the rail up at each injector until the injector releases from the intake. NOTE: The injectors are only held in place with o-rings so it may release at the manifold or the fuel rail - either is OK.
Now you can remove the intake manifold. There are ten 10mm bolts to remove. The bolts have a long spacer to reduce the chance of overtighting and breaking the manifold. Be sure to pull both out when removing the bolts. At the intake, there are three bolts holding the throttle body to coolant crossover to intake coupling. Remove these. I was able to pull the manifold out by raising the intake coupling first. It came out very easy. Here are the parts removed.
Here is a picture of the underside of the manifold and one of the intake at the head. It's kinda hard to tell from the picture, but where there is discoloration across the entire gasket there is a leak. While very minor, this engine seems especially sensitive to ANY air leak.
Now the fun part. While you must clean the mating surfaces I also chose to clean the intake paths in both the heads and the intake manifold. Had I planned for more than an afternoon, I would have taken the intake to be cleaned at a shop. But alas, time was against me. DO NOT USE ANYTHING STEEL on the head. You will damage the aluminum. NOTE: in the process of cleaning the intake tracks in the head you will get cleaner (in my case water, soap, and degreaser) in the intake path. Two things, note if the cleaner level goes down indicating in intake leak (very bad) and use a paper towel or something else to completely remove the water before reinstalling the intake. In my case, no leaks.
When you install the new gaskets, the mating surfaces on the manifold must be completely clean and dry. Otherwise there is not enough friction to hold the gaskets in place so when you turn the intake over for reinstallation the gaskets will fall out. When you get the manifold back in place, check very carefully that a gasket did not fall out. I checked each one with my finger after the manifold was set in place - and I got lucky!
This last picture shows the backfire relief valve. This is a part I was unable to find so I took this apart and clean it as best I could, but a replacement is probably warranted. The valve is held in place with two self taping screws for plastic, so be gentle removing them. The valve is three pieces, the cap, a spring, and a plunger. The face of the plunger has a gasket glued in place, so the plunger would need to be replaced. Again, any help here with apart number would be greatly appreciated.
EDIT: I found the part number 12563017 and its available for under $15. So it looks like I will be taking this apart again.
Reinstallation is the reverse of the above. Here are a couple of things to consider:
I decided as part of tracking down a random misfire problem to replace all the intake gaskets. This includes the 8 o-rings on the manifold, the coupling between the manifold and the coolant crossover, 16 injector o-rings, and the throttle body gasket.
For those wondering how hard this is, 0 being a child can do it and 10 you need a full shop and trained mechanics - I consider this a 3. Pretty much anyone that can change a spark plug can do this.
Starting point:
First take off the cover and the air cleaner top. The cover has two nuts and is held in the back by a flange. The air cleaner top has two wing nuts and a hose clamp that can be loosened with a screw driver. Then just pull the air cleaner top off. Next carefully remove the tiny vacuum lines for the smog system and note how they are routed. The remove the crank case vent hose from the front valve cover. Here they are set aside.
Now remove the engine side of the coolant reservoir and fold it up and out of the way. I pushed it behind the hood support. NOTE: maybe about a 1/2 cup of coolant will leak out during the whole procedure you may want to plan for this. Here is the location after removal.
Now release the fuel lines. Please note that if the car has been run in the last 3 or 4 hours there will be pressure in the fuel line. Always check at the fuel rail valve that is on the left side of the fuel rail. Generally this has a black screw down cap protecting the valve. Be careful as this is gas. I did not get much out, maybe 1 oz to a rag. Note the safety locks on each line, they are easily removed with a screwdriver.
You will need a fuel line quick disconnect tool. They can be had from any parts store and the plastic ones are less than $5. To use the tool, place the tool around the fuel line with the cylinder facing up and side the tool up into the quick disconnect. You may (or may not) hear a click as it releases. Once the tool is slid up into the quick disconnect, pull the quick disconnect up and off. (Reinstalling is just pushing it back together until you hear it click, check by pulling up and seeing if it seated.)
Next pull the front wiring harness off by disconnecting the coil pack and each injector. For the injectors, there is a grey locking tab that needs to be pulled up. I chose to pull it off to get easier access to the lever to release the connector from the injector. Then I just slid the grey locking tab back on, but not seated.
I am putting several pictures of this as you really do not want to break this connector...
Next you need to remove the fuel rail. I know some people leave it on the intake, but I believe this is easier when reinstalling and I am replacing the o-rings. In addition to the four bolt/studs holding the fuel rail from the top, there is a nut near the quick disconnects that needs to be removed. The mount where this nut is has a grove allowing the fuel rail to be pulled up. NOTE: gas will leak out, be ready with a means of wiping it up. Once the bolt/studs are removed, gently pull the rail up at each injector until the injector releases from the intake. NOTE: The injectors are only held in place with o-rings so it may release at the manifold or the fuel rail - either is OK.
Now you can remove the intake manifold. There are ten 10mm bolts to remove. The bolts have a long spacer to reduce the chance of overtighting and breaking the manifold. Be sure to pull both out when removing the bolts. At the intake, there are three bolts holding the throttle body to coolant crossover to intake coupling. Remove these. I was able to pull the manifold out by raising the intake coupling first. It came out very easy. Here are the parts removed.
Here is a picture of the underside of the manifold and one of the intake at the head. It's kinda hard to tell from the picture, but where there is discoloration across the entire gasket there is a leak. While very minor, this engine seems especially sensitive to ANY air leak.
Now the fun part. While you must clean the mating surfaces I also chose to clean the intake paths in both the heads and the intake manifold. Had I planned for more than an afternoon, I would have taken the intake to be cleaned at a shop. But alas, time was against me. DO NOT USE ANYTHING STEEL on the head. You will damage the aluminum. NOTE: in the process of cleaning the intake tracks in the head you will get cleaner (in my case water, soap, and degreaser) in the intake path. Two things, note if the cleaner level goes down indicating in intake leak (very bad) and use a paper towel or something else to completely remove the water before reinstalling the intake. In my case, no leaks.
When you install the new gaskets, the mating surfaces on the manifold must be completely clean and dry. Otherwise there is not enough friction to hold the gaskets in place so when you turn the intake over for reinstallation the gaskets will fall out. When you get the manifold back in place, check very carefully that a gasket did not fall out. I checked each one with my finger after the manifold was set in place - and I got lucky!
This last picture shows the backfire relief valve. This is a part I was unable to find so I took this apart and clean it as best I could, but a replacement is probably warranted. The valve is held in place with two self taping screws for plastic, so be gentle removing them. The valve is three pieces, the cap, a spring, and a plunger. The face of the plunger has a gasket glued in place, so the plunger would need to be replaced. Again, any help here with apart number would be greatly appreciated.
EDIT: I found the part number 12563017 and its available for under $15. So it looks like I will be taking this apart again.
Reinstallation is the reverse of the above. Here are a couple of things to consider:
- Do not tighten the hose clamp on the manifold until the three screws that hold the throttle body to the coolant crossover are in place and tightened.
- The steel plate that is part of the intake manifold coupling is kinda floating, so you can force it around to allow the three screws to align.
- Remember when tightening the intake manifold bolts to just snug all of them down first (the gasket will compress about 1mm) then starting at the middle one in back, tighten to 89in/lbs (inch/pounds!!!!) then do the middle front and work clockwise to tighten the rest.
Again, while a little tedious, this is not hard or require expensive special tools.
I hope this helps.
...gene
