Check charge system

[Operator_]

So here's the run down. Tuesday I was driving back from the gas station. Three blocks away. My power steering failed while I was driving.
(1) First question. This engine is an interference motor, are my valves damaged?
I drove home without lose of power or any issues like overheating.
Once I arrived home I immediately inspected the issue. My alternator was laying on the subframe belt hanging. The top mount snapped. The upper half was still bolted to the engine.
Okay not a big deal. I took the alternator out. Cleaned the area up and got a new alternator. Firstly I discovered an 03 isn't compatible but an 02,generator is.
Removed the fan shroud and installed it. Put belt on. Engine started fine. But only running off battery. The generator started at 11.6 volts and went to to 6.3 or so volts.

Things that did that I might've done wrong. Shorted the alternator battery to the exhaust via the ratchet. Failure to remember to disconnect the batter in such a hurry. Shorted the fuse box to chassis removing that nut. The 03 alternator when I put that in had a small plume of smoke come from it from somewhere diwn towards the bottom. Possibly grounded itself to geberator chassis? Not sure what that means. The new 02 one doesn't / didn't smoke.

(2) Questions. Is the fusible link inside the alternator to fusebox cable destroyed? Is there a fuse for the alternator in the fuse box(s)? Or could is just be the alternator since its an 02 and used.

Also my multi meter is dysfunctional not sure how to test if that's working either. I'm not good with electrical. any clues and help is much appreciated. I love my 4.0 v8 aurora she's a beast and the best car I've owned being only 21 I need to save her.

[sempar]

Operator,

1) Yes the Northstar engine is an interference engine, but that has nothing to do with your problems. The drive belt that runs your accessories doesn't run your camshafts. They're run by timing chains underneath the timing and cam covers.

2) As you've found out, changing out your alternator, or any other electrical equipment without first disconnecting the battery negative cable is a bad idea. Chances are you've smoked ( literally ) the alternator, damaging the internal regulator.

Shorting out the fuse box never does wonders for the rest of your electrical system either. I would check all the fuses in the front ( engine compartment ) fuse box at least, and checking the rear compartment fuse box ( under the rear seat ) is a good idea also. Besides damaging your alternator you may have damaged the dash integration module fuse, since this module monitors the alternator charging sensing circuit through a 10 A fuse located in the rear compartment fuse box ( another reason to check those fuses)

They're isn't a fusible link between the alternator and the fuse box. The alternator output goes directly to the fuse box, and then to the battery.

John

[Operator_]

Thanks for your reply. I've working on this since last Tuesday and today I'm relieved to say I've successfully solved my problem. An bought another multi meter since mine old one is spare parts now. Multi meter really would've helped identify the circuit fault for the alternator pigtail.

So with that being said. I believe when the alternator bracket broke and sent it into to the sub frame it must've stretched the pigtail leads. I spliced new fresh wire from the pigtail tonwire harness and I'm back within charging range. Neither the infusible link or rear block fuse #38 for the dim was blown. I shorted to ground but the battery must've been too dead to do damage.

The pull a part alternator works beautifully and it was a $30 dollar fix plus some electrical tape. Now onto my coolant leak and brake proportioning vavle issues