|
Post by irlfan82 on Jul 10, 2015 15:34:11 GMT -6
So i have to replace both rear window motors on my 01 and i was wondering since im going to be in the door is there any way to modify how far down the windows row. Im not a fan of the half way down.
|
|
Paulaurora
Super Moderator
Posts: 3,831
Staff Member
|
Post by Paulaurora on Jul 10, 2015 15:40:28 GMT -6
Unfortunately no. unless u use another regulator and another window somehow.
|
|
|
Post by wfooshee on Jul 10, 2015 20:19:37 GMT -6
Look at the length of the bottom of the glass. Run that length down the door. How far does it get before it doesn't fit in the door any more? Even this might be optimistic, because the inside of the door doesn't extend all the way to the body seam you see on the outside, and it wouldn't go as far as it does if they didn't have that little cheater panel at the back of the door. You could design a two-piece window, where the top half comes down beside the bottom half so it all fits inside the door. I think you'd have a lot of custom development to do, and then there'd be the seam in the glass halfway up.....
|
|
tigger
Administrator
Posts: 2,844
Staff Member
|
Post by tigger on Jul 10, 2015 23:07:04 GMT -6
Even this might be optimistic, because the inside of the door doesn't extend all the way to the body seam you see on the outside, and it wound't go as far as it does if they didn't have that little cheater panel at the back of the door. Exactly. Not to mention the width of the door sheet metal and the door to body gap. Pontiac and Buick used longer(wider), stationary quarter glass on their G bodies (Bonneville, LaSabre). I didn't like the look and I don't think it made a big difference. As for your window motors, did they fail at the same time?
|
|
|
Post by irlfan82 on Jul 12, 2015 9:45:44 GMT -6
no one doesn't work and the other is intermediate.
|
|
|
Post by irlfan82 on Jul 13, 2015 16:50:14 GMT -6
well i put a new motor in and still doesnt work, when i hit either window switch i can hear the contacts in the control box clicking. Any thing i should look for that i might be missing.
|
|
tigger
Administrator
Posts: 2,844
Staff Member
|
Post by tigger on Jul 13, 2015 20:51:06 GMT -6
I'm thinking serial data splice. You'll have to pull the driver's seat and carpet to check it though;
|
|
Paulaurora
Super Moderator
Posts: 3,831
Staff Member
|
Post by Paulaurora on Jul 14, 2015 7:04:58 GMT -6
Make sure the motor is good try to disconnect the motor from the regulator and see if it spins without it. There is maybe a wire issue in the door boot as well.
|
|
|
Post by irlfan82 on Jul 19, 2015 13:59:59 GMT -6
i left the motor hanging plugged in and still no luck. I dont remember which wires i checked but i had 12 volts running to the window switch. what all does the control box bolted to the door actually control ?
|
|
tigger
Administrator
Posts: 2,844
Staff Member
|
Post by tigger on Jul 19, 2015 15:46:15 GMT -6
Left rear;
|
|
|
Post by irlfan82 on Jul 19, 2015 18:34:07 GMT -6
thanks for the diagram but im not real good with wiring.
so when everything is plugged in, i have no power coming out on the control module at the blue or brown wire.
|
|
tigger
Administrator
Posts: 2,844
Staff Member
|
Post by tigger on Jul 19, 2015 23:39:17 GMT -6
OK, those wires (DK BLUE, BRN) are the ones that power the window motor. The door module provides normal or reverse polarity to the motor to raise or lower the window. It could be a bad module, or in your case two bad modules, but unlikely. I really think you have a serial data communication problem.
|
|
|
Post by wfooshee on Jul 20, 2015 10:23:04 GMT -6
Does anything change at F or E (Dark green, or brown) when you operate the window switch? You need to make sure the module actually "hears" the request for windows up or down.
The actual switch wiring is another page, represented here by the box that says "Power window schematic in Doors" Doors is a section of the manual.
|
|
|
Post by irlfan82 on Jul 20, 2015 15:48:30 GMT -6
do i want to check the dark green / brown on the set of wires running to the switch or from the top of the control module (the larger gauge wires)
|
|
|
Post by irlfan82 on Jul 20, 2015 20:17:52 GMT -6
So I hooked the motor straight up to the battery and it worked. I then pulled the front seat and found the data cable and checked continuity through it and it was good. So the only other thing it could be would be the control module our am I missing something else ?
|
|
|
Post by irlfan82 on Jul 20, 2015 20:18:02 GMT -6
So I hooked the motor straight up to the battery and it worked. I then pulled the front seat and found the data cable and checked continuity through it and it was good. So the only other thing it could be would be the control module our am I missing something else ?
|
|
tigger
Administrator
Posts: 2,844
Staff Member
|
Post by tigger on Jul 20, 2015 23:21:30 GMT -6
Man, I hope you still have the seat out...
Cut that scotchlok out, cut off any/all corrosion on any of the 4 tan w/white stripe wires, solder the 4 wires together and heat shrink. Even if it(the splice) isn't the problem here, you can rule it out.
How did you check for continuity? Across the splice?
|
|
|
Post by wfooshee on Jul 21, 2015 9:51:45 GMT -6
do i want to check the dark green / brown on the set of wires running to the switch or from the top of the control module (the larger gauge wires) I don't think you've determined if anything from the switch gets to the control module. I don't know if the switch ground or applies volts to those control module inputs, but before counting out the control module you should see if there's anything happening on those wires at E and F. When you hit the switch for up or down, one and then the other should make some kind of change, either voltage being applied or being grounded. I don't have a manual for the 2G cars, but those wires at E and F are where the control modules reads the window switch, then decides what to do about it. Basically the module sees the switch and activates the motor. Let's make sure it sees the switch. I would check both at the switch and at the module, just to rule out a wiring issue. There may be some other condition required to permit the window to move, but if the car's stopped in Park with the motor running I can't imagine what else could be required. A shop manual would have a complete troubleshooting sequence that identifies any missing connections or conditions.
|
|
|
Post by irlfan82 on Jul 21, 2015 15:46:01 GMT -6
Man, I hope you still have the seat out... Cut that scotchlok out, cut off any/all corrosion on any of the 4 tan w/white stripe wires, solder the 4 wires together and heat shrink. Even if it(the splice) isn't the problem here, you can rule it out. How did you check for continuity? Across the splice? The seat is still out, i found that i had a little water under the carpet im guessing from the window not being sealed tight enough, it sits down just a little from being up all the way. i put one probe from my meter at the scotchlok and the other probe from the meter to where the wires go into the control module.
|
|
tigger
Administrator
Posts: 2,844
Staff Member
|
Post by tigger on Jul 22, 2015 17:21:53 GMT -6
The seat is still out, i found that i had a little water under the carpet im guessing from the window not being sealed tight enough, it sits down just a little from being up all the way. Clogged sunroof drains and failed inner door liners are also known culprits for letting water in. But the fact that you found water under the carpet really makes me think that the data splice is the problem. i put one probe from my meter at the scotchlok and the other probe from the meter to where the wires go into the control module. That only confirms that the wire from the splice to the door module is good. You need to test the splice itself. From the picture below: Pierce the 4 tan/white stripe wires at positions 1, 2, 3, and 4. Test for continuity between; 1 and 2 1 and 3 1 and 4 2 and 3 2 and 4 3 and 4 Personally, I'd solder and heat shrink the splice while I was in there. No real reason to leave the scotchlock in, even if it hasn't failed... yet.
|
|