Torque converter choices for faster launch?

[99for200bucks]

Hi,

Anyone running a higher stall TQ converter? I remember reading somewhere that there is a LD8 version caddy with 3.11 gears
that ran a converter that was just a bit looser compared to factory stall on auroras. I have looked quite a bit through all the
threads and most posts/responses were negative regarding a higher stall speed.

The reason I singled out the 3.11 caddy is that I'm sure it is still a lock-up type so it shouldn't pose a problem cruising on
the freeway in OD. The car would have had a Factory TQ converter, Northstar engine and same tranny we have. It should fit
and work. may need ECU work but I'm thinking it would be fine without it.

I should be able to order one (Daaco or other inexpensive brand) right from rock auto for less than a couple hundred if
it came from factory that way. Any thoughts, suggestions or know of anyone who has done something similar?

Getting into the powerband quicker should reduce 0-60 times.

Just thinking...

Paul.

 

[99for200bucks]

Why no responses? I thought I remembered somewhere that based on certain selected gear rations, there were some torque converters that
ran with a higher factory stall speed (2050 vs 1350). In thought it was the eldo's with 3.15 ratio. In getting better responses there is (excluding a
gear change) no better way on the planet to improve this than a higher stall. If still no response, will move to classic maint...

Not sure if I got all that correct. Having problems with my brain due to a stroke last Tuesday. I missed a dose of the blood thinner I have to
take daily due to an artificial heart valve and it put a clot in my brain.

Thanks,

Paul.

[sall]

Performance section would be the ideal subforum. I thought the ratios available are 3.11, 3.48 and 3.71 for the 4t80e? I don't know of any higher stall torque converters from factory. Could be wrong!

[99for200bucks]

Hi Sall and all...

I'll be installing the 4.6 LD8 soon (bottom end re-seal, inserted with normserts and studded with ARP head studs, parts in hand, looking for LD8
core now, have a line on one). The in car head gasket repair has been shelved for now due to cracked block, but before pulling the 4.0, I will test
the theory completely for that back head drilling/repair and finish the write-up for it in the thread I started, complete with photos.

Since I will be pulling engine, I will have full access to the torque convertor (and the electronics side cover) and before mating it I will call around
to various convertor re-builders and find the loosest convertor ever offered in the 4T80e transmission. I'm thinking it's a 2050 stall speed. I want
to stick with a factory stall speed to allow for as much computer compatibility as possible. Even a 2500 stall with lock-up convertor should work IMO.
Any shift points above the RPM'S I just spoke of should not be affected as the convertor is fully engaged above those RPM's and freeway cruising at
RPM's below those values I listed will be handled by the lock-up feature.

The above logic and actual application of it within the next 2 months or so (estimated time to find LD8, repair top and bottom end and do 1 u-pull it
top pull, 1 aurora top pull and 1 aurora install) should lay to rest the nay-sayers I saw on here concerning tq convertor shift point problems. I'm
pretty sure it wasn't you who said a higher stall wasn't possible due to shift point problems in the thread I found on the subject. And rather than
revive a long dead thread, I'll just fix it in this one. The logic of "why" it will work I've just laid out above. Anyone reading this and wanting to
discuss, I'd be glad to. As to the application of it, time (slips ) will tell.

I want to go the convertor route rather than the autobahn route to allow for lower cruising RPM's and higher top ends. It seems from looking at
1/4 mile time data in the 1/4 mile thread on here that the top speeds overall in the 1/4 were in many cases higher for the 3.42 cars, and a 2050
convertor may make up some of the difference between a 3.42 and 3.73 launch. Also the bahn vs non-bahn comparison found many of the non's
with better times when the entire 1/4 is viewed as a whole. A re-program seems to be in the picture eventually so shaving
off a very minimum amount of outside tire circumference (the very next smallest tire size down) may also be in the cards, lowering tire cornering
slosh and sliding just up the scale a bit towards 3.73 without a gear change. The programming may be able to fix any speedo errors. I'll have to
look into it. A tire size change worked for my 84 Riviera. Haven't re-cal'd the speedo in that yet but it just requires a different worm gear.

What I'm truly looking for here is an Aurora that functions as close to normal as originally intended when driven like an old lady, but is truly
quicker than most Aurora's when the pedal is mashed at the strip or at a stop light when I find myself in the wrong lane and the guy next to me
is being a total jerk.

Paul.