irectus
Aurora Driver
To each his own - for us, an Aurora.
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Post by irectus on Apr 24, 2016 11:43:15 GMT -6
Hey guys So as the posts suggests, I need recommendations on a good all round setup. My current setup is squealing and my back calipers are dragging and the setup is literally toast. Seeing as it's the first time i'm replacing the rotors, pads and calipers, I'm not too sure which way to go. I've heard of EBC and Power Stop. Now I know our cars weigh approximately 2 tonnes, where a hatchback civic can weigh like 800lbs. So reviews from lighter cars generally will mean nothing for cars like ours (which apparently weigh more than some pick-ups. a ford F-150 at 1.5 tonnes for example) anyway I digress. What's a good setup for pads and rotors? Should i go with daily driver vs street vs heavy duty vs extreme track? Should I get slotted and drilled or would the weight of our cars and some terrible roads in the city make for cracked rotors easily? Also want to replace the calipers and need to know some good brands. I was looking at this setup, any ideas? unfortunately its only the fronts and would still need to find rears. is mixing and matching frowned upon? www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4750956&cc=1364172&jsn=412 |
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Post by sall on Apr 24, 2016 16:15:45 GMT -6
Get bigger wheels and upgrade calipers and rotors lol.
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tigger
Administrator 
Posts: 2,844 
Staff Member
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Post by tigger on Apr 24, 2016 20:50:41 GMT -6
Yeah, if you're going to do it all, you may as well kick it up a notch. The kit you linked is basically a prettier version of what you already have. Drilled/slotted rotors on a passenger car are just for looks, but if you like the look, I don't think they hurt anything. I do recommend ceramic pads for quite operation and reduced dusting.
If you are still running the OE 16's, you could do the 2006 Lucerne/Impala V6 front caliper/rotor swap. They're twin piston, bolt right up, and will fit under 16" wheels!
Don't worry about the rears, on a 4,000 lb. FWD sedan, they're only there for moral support and e brake function, keep 'em stock! LOL!
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irectus
Aurora Driver
To each his own - for us, an Aurora.
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Post by irectus on Apr 24, 2016 22:13:47 GMT -6
Yeah, I'm planning on upgrading the rims eventually but right now they are stock 16". I'd want something that would fit when I do upgrade. So would the extremes then be an upgraded version of the oem brakes? (Given the streets are basically what I have minus drilled/slotted rotters). Or would I want to get something that's heavy duty?
P.s. my ebrake broke a while back and my back brakes have been messed up for a while. Now they are rubbing and dragging so it's time to replace everything. Front included. And ebrake.
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RCA1186
Administrator
Rob
Go Pack Go!
Posts: 4,853
Staff Member
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Post by RCA1186 on Apr 25, 2016 6:13:26 GMT -6
If I remember right powerstop was what I got. They've worked well enough for me. Carbon fiber/ceramic pads. Not a sound from them and minimal brake dust.
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Post by sall on Apr 25, 2016 9:28:38 GMT -6
Don't worry about the rears, on a 4,000 lb. FWD sedan, they're only there for moral support and e brake function, keep 'em stock! LOL! The rears are cheap and easy. All that is needed is larger bracket and rotor. Every bit helps when you have wide open five spokes haha. I have been putting brake upgrade off for a while now. Stack of powder coated parts boxed up in the garage haha. |
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skizo
Aurora Passenger
WOT ... is there any other way?
Posts: 278
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Post by skizo on May 27, 2016 8:47:03 GMT -6
My recommendation? Don't let Mr Goodwrench do it ... Blew out a steel line on a road trip recently, so they had something of a captive audience. Of course, they couldn't free up the bleeders on the back (although that's never been a problem for this particular amateur mechanic) so two new calipers as well. Total estimate was around $1000 ... I think they tacked an extra boat payment or two on the bill knowing I was a long way from home. (grumble mumble grouse) I gave em grief about the bleeders, challenged them to give it another go, and lo and behold, were able to free them up. Which took the job down to sub $500. Still steep for a backyard mechanic, but I could live with that. They did replace all the lines from the proportioning valve back. Looked over the fine print on the invoice when I got home and didn't see new bleeder screws on the parts list. Gonna be a magic moment if I get under there and see some chewed up bleeders still in the calipers. For now, I'll give them the benefit of the doubt. PS ... larger calipers here aren't an option ... these '01 Grand Prix wheels barely clear the stockers ...  |
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