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Post by quixote on May 17, 2016 16:20:39 GMT -6
I think I've got the right section of the Forum, as this one is not generation-specific. Anyway, my father has always had a thing, about aluminum block engines. He has to deliver 'his speech' on them, even avoids cars with aluminum engine valve covers. (I know, it's pretty dumb.) One of my sisters had a Mitsubishi, way back in the 1970's with an aluminum engine block, for her second car. The first winter after she got it, the engine blocked cracked in one of our winters. She hadn't even realized there was anything unusual about the engine, besides it being a Mitsubishi. I have no idea what her boyfriend, my brothers, or however many others had going on that they didn't notice it was aluminum. (She's 12 years older than me, if you want to tell "old dude" jokes.) The website for the stuff is here: www.evanscoolant.com/It's pretty expensive. $200-225 for the 13 quarts it takes for a G1, but it doesn't freeze until -34 Farenheit, & Evans has a guarantee if it damages your engine. It's Lifetime coolant. You only need to buy more if/when you have a leak or spill and the level is too low. It doesn't boil off or evaporate. I heard about it on Jay Leno's garage, which doesn't necessarily make it 'the greatest product ever,' but you gotta respect his comittment and interest in cars. I've already got 4 gallons of the stuff, the cooling system prep kit, & the testing kit. It'll be a while, before I put it in. I figure I need to replace the coolant hoses first, just to minimize the chances my car dumps $200 out on the highway. I just thought I'd ask about experience(s), before I put this stuff in, and/or try to do the system flush and find out I need 5 gallons of the cooling system prep... |
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tigger
Administrator 
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Post by tigger on May 18, 2016 0:23:02 GMT -6
PG (propylene glycol; Evans, Amsoil, Sierra) has similar freeze/boil point numbers compared to EG (ethylene glycol; "green" Prestone, etc.) and MEG (monoethylene glycol; DexCool). They all have anti-corrosion add packs.
Basically, you could run any coolant straight and expect similar results, even "green" at 8 bucks/gallon!.
Thing is, heat transfer sucks with straight coolant. That means higher operating temps, and that doesn't sit well with most N* guys.
If you're only in it for freeze protection, bump your mix up to 60/40. Should be good for at least -30oF.
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Post by Toronado3800 on May 18, 2016 6:45:34 GMT -6
Quixote, where do you live? Fairbanks Alaska people have different concerns than me here in StLouis. For me my mix has to be good to -15F or so. I have seen -10F here so figure adding a couple degrees can't hurt.
What do you expect this to do better than regular coolant? My biggest concern is heat transfer. I dream of temperature stability also lol.
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Post by quixote on May 18, 2016 9:56:36 GMT -6
PG (propylene glycol; Evans, Amsoil, Sierra) has similar freeze/boil point numbers compared to EG (ethylene glycol; "green" Prestone, etc.) and MEG (monoethylene glycol; DexCool). They all have anti-corrosion add packs. Basically, you could run any coolant straight and expect similar results, even "green" at 8 bucks/gallon!. Thing is, heat transfer sucks with straight coolant. That means higher operating temps, and that doesn't sit well with most N* guys. If you're only in it for freeze protection, bump your mix up to 60/40. Should be good for at least -30 oF. I certainly agree that you have to watch out for "snake oil" in car products, & even Leno doesn't seem to be ammune. I've also seen him advertise (I think endorse may be too strong a word) an Archoil product that I couldn't seem to find any information or science to back it up. (It was/is basically another zinc-infused engine additive.) What I have seen, Evans doesn't claim their product makes your system run cooler. They say 10-15 degrees F higher. They claim lower pressure in the system, & less corrosive, because there is no water vapor. They don't give any information to speak of, about the content, except to say that it's 'a mixture of glycols. Beyond the lower freezing-point, the main selling points of the stuff from my perspective are the lowered corrosion, lifetime use, & warranty. You'll probably get the first two, from say---Prestone, maybe the third, but not the last. Here is the warranty: www.evanscoolant.com/how-it-works/conversion-installation/warranty-information/ I note that it makes no mention of gaskets, as have been a known issue in the Aurora, or any seals at all. They also say they will replace the coolant, if you can show it has begun to break-down. They don't say what will have happened to your engine, if it begins to break-down... Here: weareclassiccars.com/evans-classic-cool-waterless-coolant-the-verdict/ is review of sorts, probably to be taken with as much of a grain of salt, as Jay Leno's. And here is an analysis summary, from a company that makes a competing product: www.norosion.com/evanstest.htm They actually make it sound kinda-okay, except that they point out a higher-corrosion rate for solder, a build up on aluminum parts, & need for a +20% capacity water pump... Near the end, they even talk about how Jay Leno's aircraft-engine-powered Rolls Royce (omitting his name) is the perfect application for Evans coolant. Norosion also says that Evans tests 30-40 degrees F higher. And they mention that companies are testing using gylcerine as an engine coolant... This is more what I was expecting a product like Evans to be. These marketing-base pitches, they go to far extremes to not actually tell you useful information about their products. :\ |
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Post by quixote on May 18, 2016 10:16:34 GMT -6
Quixote, where do you live? Fairbanks Alaska people have different concerns than me here in StLouis. For me my mix has to be good to -15F or so. I have seen -10F here so figure adding a couple degrees can't hurt. What do you expect this to do better than regular coolant? My biggest concern is heat transfer. I dream of temperature stability also lol. I'm in Southern Iowa, probably about 300 miles from you. We get 3-4 days at 20 below zero, sometime a week and a half, every 2-4 years. That includes wind-chill, which is not the same as actual temperature, but I won't be driving this car around in weather like that so it won't be getting any warmer, those occasions. The point is that there should be improvements of this kind, in coolants. Like LEDs versus incandescents, like synthetic motor oils versus traditional motor oil. What I'm looking for?: A coolant that you put in your car, when you first get it. You check it periodically, against leaks, & once a year for break-down and water-content. That's it. As long as you haven't had any leaks, that coolant lasts as long as you own the car, maintenace-free for all intents & purposes. Kind of like wanting a rechargeable battery that doesn't peter out on you, after 6 months of light use. ... Of course, I'm also constantly surprised that someone hasn't come up with a type of pond-scum that turns sunlight & carbon dioxide into octane.  |
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