Blew out half my '97's electrics today

[cooltouch]

Okay, several months ago I bought a keyless entry fob, aka a Remote Lock Control, for my '97. It has sat on my desk until this morning, when I decided to finally do something about it. I bought this unit off eBay, which is supposedly matched to my specific car -- and it may be, because I didn't get far enough to even try and match it to the car.

See, this device came with a set of instructions on how to program the car for this thing. The first thing it tells you is to locate the OBD II port and that it's wider at the top. It also states that the port will not have numbers and to "use this for reference." I'm assuming that the port being wider at the top is the "reference."  So, assuming that reference, next on the list of things to do was to locate pins 4 and 8 and to install a jumper between them. The port has two rows of pins. So, holding the port so that the wider side was on top, this meant that the farthest pin on each row would be pins 4 and 8. So I installed a jumper between them. The instructions said that "the vehicle will respond by locking then unlocking the doors to signify entering of programming mode." Well, that's not what happened. Instead the chime went off, bonging -- or binging I guess -- incessantly, but the door locks didn't do anything. So I tried the pins on the opposite end of the port. Nada. Then I tried another configuration, which was a stretch, but it still would add up to 4 and 8. Sorta. When I touched the jumper to the pins, the tiniest of sparks sparked and then -- nothing. So I tried the configuration again where I got the chime to go off. This time it was silent.

Hrm . . . I began thinking, with not too small of an amount of dread. The last time I was in a situation like this, I was plugging my scanner into a surge protector and it sparked. Not only did that spark blow out a "lifetime" surge protector, but it also took out a circuit in my house! And no, the circuit breakers in the panel showed no signs of being set off. So, immediately this sort of situation flashed into my head. Oh dread.

So I began checking out the car and discovered the following:

The Information panel no longer iights up. The climate control doesn't work. But the radio does. And get this -- all the instrumentation is out. That is, the water temp gauge, fuel gauge, tach and speedo.  And the driver's power seat controls don't work. But the passenger seat's controls do. Weird. Fortunately, the power windows work as does the sunroof. There are probably other electronic controls that no longer work that I haven't found out about yet. I have gone through the fuses and breakers under the hood, and all the fuses located in the panel on the left side of the dash. I have not yet pulled the rear seat to check the fuses and breakers under the seat. But how much you wanna bet they're all gonna be fine? I took the car out for a brief spin -- maybe 5 miles total and it behaved fine. The electric fans for the radiator were working, fortunately.

So, I'm wondering just what in the hell have I done to my car. Anybody got a clue? Is there hopefully an easy fix for this mess I've gotten myself into?  And if not an easy fix, any idea how much it's gonna cost me to get it fixed right?

Hooboy.

[tigger]

May 20, 2017 15:01:56 GMT -6 cooltouch said:

So, assuming that reference, next on the list of things to do was to locate pins 4 and 8 and to install a jumper between them. The port has two rows of pins. So, holding the port so that the wider side was on top, this meant that the farthest pin on each row would be pins 4 and 8.

OBD II Connector;





4 and 8 are on the same row. I don't have a pinout for the Classic, so no idea what you actually jumped but 16 is pretty much universally battery + voltage. Hopefully you just popped a fuse...

[cooltouch]

Well, if I popped a fuse, I haven't found it yet. Wish I would have had that image before I started all this.

Incidentally, it looks like the situation that caused all this grief would have been either 8 and 12 or 4 and 16. I wasn't counting spaces. I was counting the actual pins. Not all of those spaces had pins in them, so I wasn't including them in the count. Anyway, there was a possible distance of four pins between either 8 and 12 or 4 and 16. Does that tell you anything? Perhaps 4 and 16, since 16 is battery + ? Any idea of which fuse it might be? Perhaps one of the fuses under the rear seat? It's the only place I haven't looked yet.

[tigger]

4 is a chassis ground, 16 is battery +, think we may have a winner, haha!

Look for the ALDL fuse (again, sorry, no idea where it might be located on your '97. On the 2G, it's a 10A fuse in the rear fuse block).


BTW, how hot was that jumper wire when you took it out? I think all the Classic FSMs suggest (strongly) to use a fused jumper. Oh well, live and learn...

[cooltouch]

The jumper wire wasn't hot at all. It was a very tiny spark. Even down in the footwell it was barely a glimmer. If the port would have been in the sunlight, I wouldn't have seen it.

ALDL is the label for that fuse, I take it. I guess I'll need to look for anything with a spelling similar to that, since my car is different from yours.

Any idea how costly "live and learn" is gonna be?

[sall]

Always use a fused jumper. Check all the fuses. I don't recall which one or where for the port power.

[cooltouch]

Too late now, but for future reference, what size fuse do you use in your fused jumper?

[tigger]

May 21, 2017 17:44:34 GMT -6 cooltouch said:

ALDL is the label for that fuse, I take it. I guess I'll need to look for anything with a spelling similar to that, since my car is different from yours.

Any idea how costly "live and learn" is gonna be?

Not sure if it's labeled ALDL or not. Check your owner's manual, it'll be listed there, somewhere.

Vaguely recalling a member with similar issue some time back, it may be listed under an instrument panel fuse (I/P 1, I/P2..). But like sall said, check all of them.


I really think you're gonna get out for the price of a fuse, haha!

[RCA1186]

I did the same thing once programming mine... Check your fuses under the back seat. Look for the I/P fuses I think it's I/P 1 or I/P 2. I/P standing for instrument panel I'd say swap them out to test even if they pass the visual test. Another similar link


You can pop out the OBD connector by tilting it out of the kick panel and pulling it back (easier if the kick panel is off) and if you look real close you'll see that it is actually physically numbered. At least I know it was in my '99

[cooltouch]

My OBD connector was popped out and left that way by a previous mechanic. Not visible from a seating position and it is more convenient to get to that way, so I'm just gonna leave it hanging. I checked carefully, even with a light, for numbers, and mine has none -- unless they are exceedingly well hidden!

Thanks for the links. Figures the one thing I didn't do is the one thing I need to do. Sounds like if I replace that I/P1 fuse, all will be right with the world. I hope. Stay tuned.

[sall]

I think last time I programed a key fob I used a 3A fuse.

Anyways, a quick search of google images for "IP1 site:aurorah.proboards.com" and yes, the DLC is on the IP1 circuit.

[cooltouch]

Thanks, sall. I'm gonna pull the rear seat and check the I/P1 fuse. Hopefully that'll take care of the problem. Then it's off to the electronics store to buy the stuff I'll need for a fused jumper.

[cooltouch]

Problem Solved! That was it, the I/P1 10A fuse, causing all that grief.  I just got back from the electronics store and I'm gonna build a fused jumper using a 3A fuse.

[wfooshee]

FWIW, the reason the passenger seats worked but not the driver is the memory module for the driver's seat position. The passenger seat motors work directly from the switches, the driver seat works from the memory module. The switches are just input to the module, and if the module is not powered, nothing happens, as its logic won't activate the motor wires. That module also controls the outside mirrors.

[cooltouch]

Ah,well that's good to know.

You know, given all the complexity this car has, something I noticed yesterday -- after replacing the fuse -- is the passenger side air vents are no longer blowing cold air when the A/C is operating. In fact, very hot air was coming out of the vent on the dash and the one on the door.

I know how vacuum pots control flow through the ductwork, so I'm suspecting the one that controls this portion of the ductwork. But I find it an annoying coincidence that it coincided with this fuse failure. And it has me wondering if perhaps, somehow, this condition is malingering from when the fuse was out. Anybody care to weigh in on this?

Wait -- I just had another thought. With all other cars I've owned, there's a valve that controls hot water flow into the heater core. This valve is normally closed when the heater is not in use. So this sort of doesn't make sense, unless .  . . what, does the Aurora have two heater control valves? Because the A/C is blowing cold air on the driver's side.

[tigger]

Try this;

Disconnect the battery for 10-15 minutes.
Reconnect the battery.
Insert the key and turn to ON. Do not start engine!

Give it at least 30 seconds, the valve actuators should reset (re-calibrate). Start normally.

If it works, send sall a thanks.
If it doesn't, you probably have a bad actuator. Coincidences do happen...

[RCA1186]

There's also a passenger climate control knob on the passenger door which I'm sure you're aware of already.

[cooltouch]

Yep, it was blowing hot out of the door vent too, Rob.

Tigger, thanks for the tip. First, though -- doesn't the radio have a code? Like for anti-theft reasons? I'll have to check but I don't think I have the code for that radio. I'm averse to disconnecting the battery until I know what to expect. Like I know I should be able to get the code from a dealer. Which I guess I'll have to do anyway if the radio requires one.

[tigger]

May 28, 2017 16:08:23 GMT -6 cooltouch said:

Tigger, thanks for the tip. First, though -- doesn't the radio have a code? Like for anti-theft reasons? I'll have to check but I don't think I have the code for that radio. I'm averse to disconnecting the battery until I know what to expect. Like I know I should be able to get the code from a dealer. Which I guess I'll have to do anyway if the radio requires one.

Doh, completely forgot about code based TheftLock! The 2G uses VIN verification, so as long as you don't try to use the unit in another vehicle, power loss isn't an issue (had my battery disconnected for over 2 hours recently and didn't even lose my presets, haha). But that is an excellent point.

IIRC, that system isn't armed from the factory, the owner has to set a 4 digit "unlock" code. If the owner never sets a code, TheftLock never arms, i.e. the unit is not "secure" and a power loss should have no effect on radio function after power is restored. I know that's a big risk, and I probably wouldn't just "give it a shot" either. Wonder if there's a way to determine if it's secure or not... Does it have an indicator light?

Cone on Classic guys, help me out here.

[cooltouch]

I don't know about an indicator light. Don't think so. But this was my mother's car and I can ask her if she ever entered a code. Far as that goes, if she did, she may have it written down someplace, besides in the car. I'll check with her first. Dunno why I didn't think of that before. Brain farts.

[sall]

Page 3-23 in the owners manual here about theft lock.

assets.gm.com/manuals/oldsmobile/1996_oldsmobile_aurora_owners.pdf


Should be the same for the '97. That manual is in the stickies as well though.

[wfooshee]

The ventilation doors are electric. And expensive. And there are a bunch of them. One for recirculate, one each for passenger and driver temperature, and at least one, maybe two (can't be bothered to look ) for selections of floor, vent, and defrost.

[dorvin]

I did the exact same thing on my Olds 88 trying to configure a replacement key fob. I even had a spark from the OBDII port, when I accidentally jumped the wrong pins. Luckily in my case it was just a fuse that blew.