|
Post by AmunRoo on Jul 3, 2018 14:19:48 GMT -6
I'm having a weird electrical problem. My driver window control module stops working. I think it's shorting out. I put another one in and it dies a couple days later. This just started happening. I tried using the one that shorted out in my other Aurora and it won't work. So I think they actually are getting shorted. Any thoughts or ideas? Any help is greatly appreciated as I cannot use any of my windows. Door locks and mirrors work just fine by the way
|
|
|
Post by AUROD X on Jul 4, 2018 19:41:05 GMT -6
Check window relay if properly installed or bad. Check door switch harness power wire for 12v current with key off and door open, should be no power. Remove door panel and check harness for kinks or pinched wires. Also might be possible another accessory like a Amplifier, extra lighting, winch, popcorn 🍿 machine, etc;.. was added to that window loop and having 12v power constantly, that it's heating up the switch causing it to self destruct. Hey! Just pointing out.🤔
|
|
RCA1186
Administrator
Rob
Go Pack Go!
Posts: 4,837
Staff Member
|
Post by RCA1186 on Jul 5, 2018 6:00:05 GMT -6
tigger could this be another problem caused by the connector under the driver's seat? Forgive me for my lack of 2G knowledge haha
|
|
Paulaurora
Super Moderator
Posts: 3,828
Staff Member
|
Post by Paulaurora on Jul 5, 2018 6:25:42 GMT -6
yes might be some water as well under the carpet that can cause shorts.
|
|
tigger
Administrator
Posts: 2,844
Staff Member
|
Post by tigger on Jul 5, 2018 21:44:41 GMT -6
tigger could this be another problem caused by the connector under the driver's seat? Nah, I wouldn't think so. That connector only links the slave (passenger) door modules to the master (driver) door module so they can ask for and receive permission to function. This means all electrical (windows, door locks, open/closed switch), so when it craps out, only the passenger doors are effected. And OP did say door locks were working. I'm thinking it could be a bad master switch assembly, or worst case scenario, some broken wire in the circuit shorting ...somewhere.
|
|
|
Post by AmunRoo on Jul 10, 2018 14:13:56 GMT -6
Okay so while working on this a little more, my door locks are working properly. I noticed that when I click the window switch for the driver door the module clicks but nothing happens. None of the other window modules are clicking. I replace the master switch and it's still not working. I had replaced the module before and it worked fine but then I guess it burned out again and now it will not work with another replacement. I'm seriously stumped here. I had also tried replacing the driver door module.
|
|
|
Post by AmunRoo on Jul 10, 2018 14:14:23 GMT -6
P.S. the wiring is also good. I didn't see any issues with it.
|
|
|
Post by AmunRoo on Jul 10, 2018 17:28:40 GMT -6
Okay! We have at least an idea of what's going on now. So it turns out that my circuit breaker is definitely the problem right now. I almost burned my finger badly as I was pulling a fuse right next to it. Now, what would cause my circuit breaker to overheat and fail all of a sudden? There is no water anywhere in the car. No wires are exposed out there bare. When I replaced the breaker, all of the windows were working fine until it overheated and then that was it. Mind you the breaker was hot even while the car was off. There is nothing aftermarket in car. Doesn't seem like there's any grounding issues anywhere that I can see relating to the windows. Could it be a bad fuse box?
|
|
tigger
Administrator
Posts: 2,844
Staff Member
|
Post by tigger on Jul 10, 2018 23:18:14 GMT -6
I really doubt it's the fuse block, unless you're having other electrical issues...
So, something must be drawing power constantly, in other words, you got a short!
I'd test the master window switch again since the breaker was already out when you swapped in another switch. I'm thinking the window motors are the only thing on the 30A circuit.
|
|
|
Post by AmunRoo on Jul 11, 2018 16:17:32 GMT -6
Tigger, I agree about the window motors being the only thing on the breaker. Now, that breaker is getting hot even when the car is off. The wiring is all intact. none of the motors seem to be engaged. They all go up and stay up and they all go down and stay down. If one switch or motor was stuck in an up or down position, it would pull the window in that direction by default. everything works as soon as I replace the breaker but about 30 minutes into the new breaker, it overheats and stops working. I also encountered a new problem. my camshaft position sensor started throwing a cel and gave up codes P0340 and P0341. I'm swapping that out this weekend. I may have done something to it when changing my high pressure line.
but, if you have any other ideas, please feel free to drop them...
|
|
|
Post by phewop118 on Jul 11, 2018 22:50:29 GMT -6
If you have access to the wiring diagrams and an ohm meter, you can start checking at each connector in the circuit to see where the short circuit may be. I'd only disconnect one item at a time. Check for shorts on both sides of the connection, both between circuits and circuit to ground.
|
|