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Post by mraurora on Apr 9, 2022 23:16:51 GMT -6
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Post by AuroraGirlFromMars on Apr 11, 2022 11:06:40 GMT -6
I think its a good thing you are having experts remove it. If they also put it in, I think you will see your issue go away. the glass doesnt look right to me like its not setting proper. Good idea.
Perfect time to check all the body seams and welds etc to make sure its all kosher.
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Post by AuroraGirlFromMars on Apr 11, 2022 11:14:25 GMT -6
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Post by mraurora on Apr 11, 2022 12:08:49 GMT -6
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Post by AuroraGirlFromMars on Apr 11, 2022 12:23:37 GMT -6
 not to pull the expert card but ive been inside the car with no interior bits (joking lol, not about doing that but expert card) if you have a perfect window seal, your once blocked drain literally was the cause of the rear water. the only reason i arrowed stuff was things that looked strange. there is nothing wrong with your trunk seal, im saying it looks like its "not right" but I dont have a 2g aurora near me to compare anymore 1g and a park avenue tho lol  I miss my old maze bean of a 2001. fun times. many not fun times. but many fun times. If you insist on not improving your drain tubes then its your choice(the ends) but im pretty sure your tubes are squished. I dont remember them being flat anywhere but its been like 5 years or something |
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Post by AuroraGirlFromMars on Apr 11, 2022 12:32:37 GMT -6
 memories <3 |
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Post by mraurora on Apr 11, 2022 13:25:13 GMT -6
not to pull the expert card but ive been inside the car with no interior bits (joking lol, not about doing that but expert card) if you have a perfect window seal, your once blocked drain literally was the cause of the rear water. the only reason i arrowed stuff was things that looked strange. there is nothing wrong with your trunk seal, im saying it looks like its "not right" but I dont have a 2g aurora near me to compare anymore 1g and a park avenue tho lol I miss my old maze bean of a 2001. fun times. many not fun times. but many fun times. If you insist on not improving your drain tubes then its your choice(the ends) but im pretty sure your tubes are squished. I dont remember them being flat anywhere but its been like 5 years or something If the sunroof drains weren't draining, I would mess around with the tubes. But since they are draining I feel I should leave well enough alone. I've already snipped off the end of the driver side tube to allow it to drain with positive results. Glass guy comes tomorrow to take out rear glass and reinstall..hoping that big ass hole in the seal gets fixed in the process. Well, not hoping, I'm requiring that it gets fixed and hoping the glass guy can deliver. |
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Post by AuroraGirlFromMars on Apr 11, 2022 23:00:15 GMT -6
not to pull the expert card but ive been inside the car with no interior bits (joking lol, not about doing that but expert card) if you have a perfect window seal, your once blocked drain literally was the cause of the rear water. the only reason i arrowed stuff was things that looked strange. there is nothing wrong with your trunk seal, im saying it looks like its "not right" but I dont have a 2g aurora near me to compare anymore 1g and a park avenue tho lol I miss my old maze bean of a 2001. fun times. many not fun times. but many fun times. If you insist on not improving your drain tubes then its your choice(the ends) but im pretty sure your tubes are squished. I dont remember them being flat anywhere but its been like 5 years or something If the sunroof drains weren't draining, I would mess around with the tubes. But since they are draining I feel I should leave well enough alone. I've already snipped off the end of the driver side tube to allow it to drain with positive results. Glass guy comes tomorrow to take out rear glass and reinstall..hoping that big ass hole in the seal gets fixed in the process. Well, not hoping, I'm requiring that it gets fixed and hoping the glass guy can deliver. no. not that lol. Im saying that when your tube was restricted, the water in the sunroof thing would overcome the drains and the first thing it does is follow the externals of the rear tubes (unless fronts are biased from like a hill or something) and follow it back which stands chance ending in trunk on trunk side of grommet or finding path by means of c pillar or other metal. small chance of going to other potential layovers. You fixed the restrictions on all 4, i presume, and improved 1.(do all 4 prime numbers are scary) If your seal and glass fitment is good, your drains should be able to handle the water they get. assuming no cracks or future debris block them. since you cant just "know" when pine needles shove themselves in there, thats why I say snip the ends. they are only for minor and I mean minor NVH stuff. you will never notice but they wont be asking to clog(who though starting large and fast flowing to a pin hole at the end would never backfire...)if you want to temporarily make your sunroof not a factor ,just get some butyl rope or temporarily weather stripping sealant from store and seal it up yanks out when done  |
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Post by mraurora on Apr 12, 2022 9:46:41 GMT -6
The glass guys came and removed my rear glass. They have to order the window reveal, so the glass is staying out for now. There was a small hole from the outside sheetmetal through to the interior of the car, so the water would run from the roof, through the hole and into the car via the gap in the rear window seal. The water that didn't come in through the gap continued back into the trunk and would fill the trunk spare well. They put sealant on the hole and are going to put the glass back in when the window reveal comes in.  |
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Post by paulaurora on Apr 13, 2022 15:44:39 GMT -6
ye i knew prev person did half ass job installing it. but good to know for the future thanks for all the pix and info:)
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Post by mraurora on Apr 14, 2022 7:47:26 GMT -6
The glass company said they were going to have to make a reveal molding as their distributor doesn't have the factory molding. I told the glass guy they weren't made anymore before he took the glass out. He assured me their distributors would have them. My dissatisfaction level is high.
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Post by paulaurora on Apr 14, 2022 17:17:39 GMT -6
it might be the same one as for Pontiac Boonville or buick lesabre but maybe not.
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Post by AuroraGirlFromMars on Apr 22, 2022 5:42:41 GMT -6
The glass company said they were going to have to make a reveal molding as their distributor doesn't have the factory molding. I told the glass guy they weren't made anymore before he took the glass out. He assured me their distributors would have them. My dissatisfaction level is high. shouldnt be too hard to find a used one. So was I right that there was an issue with the molding or lack of or was it destroyed when removing? |
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Post by AuroraGirlFromMars on Apr 22, 2022 5:46:36 GMT -6
  if in anyway this helps, this was my 2001 |
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Post by mraurora on Apr 22, 2022 6:03:22 GMT -6
It was destroyed in the removal process. My car is still in the garage with no back glass. Haven't heard from the glass people. I have Safelite doing a search to see if they can locate anything for me as all the other local glass companies can't come up with anything.
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Post by AuroraGirlFromMars on Apr 22, 2022 9:10:51 GMT -6
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Post by mraurora on Apr 22, 2022 9:16:19 GMT -6
I've considered something like this as a last-ditch effort. Our 2nd gen cars have a longer, flatter bottom strip at the bottom of the rear glass that extends down towards the trunk lid that this wouldn't mimic. I don't know how important that bottom part is on our cars.
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Post by AuroraGirlFromMars on Apr 22, 2022 10:33:14 GMT -6
I've considered something like this as a last-ditch effort. Our 2nd gen cars have a longer, flatter bottom strip at the bottom of the rear glass that extends down towards the trunk lid that this wouldn't mimic. I don't know how important that bottom part is on our cars. |
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Post by mraurora on Aug 29, 2022 9:53:20 GMT -6
I've considered something like this as a last-ditch effort. Our 2nd gen cars have a longer, flatter bottom strip at the bottom of the rear glass that extends down towards the trunk lid that this wouldn't mimic. I don't know how important that bottom part is on our cars. Sorry I didn't respond to this sooner. That link shows an addition underneath the molding to reduce flutter I believe. That's not what I was referring to about the molding. I have seen the 2nd gen cars with a basic rear window reveal molding that was the same size all the way around. I have also seen 2nd gen cars with a different reveal molding that has an extension near the trunk lid. This extension isn't after the fact, but is part of the reveal molding. So evidently somewhere along the line GM changed the design of the reveal molding. Mine had the extended version when the glass people came and ruined it. I finally got them to come back out after a month. They used two types of moldings to finish the job. A normal one for the top and sides of the glass and a thicker version for the bottom. The end results are less than amazing, but at least the glass is in. If the above link posted by AuroraGirl is in fact talking about replacing the entire molding with a new one that has the extension, then I stand corrected. But from the wording, it doesn't sound like it. |
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Post by AuroraGirlFromMars on Aug 29, 2022 13:50:11 GMT -6
Sorry I didn't respond to this sooner. That link shows an addition underneath the molding to reduce flutter I believe. That's not what I was referring to about the molding. I have seen the 2nd gen cars with a basic rear window reveal molding that was the same size all the way around. I have also seen 2nd gen cars with a different reveal molding that has an extension near the trunk lid. This extension isn't after the fact, but is part of the reveal molding. So evidently somewhere along the line GM changed the design of the reveal molding. Mine had the extended version when the glass people came and ruined it. I finally got them to come back out after a month. They used two types of moldings to finish the job. A normal one for the top and sides of the glass and a thicker version for the bottom. The end results are less than amazing, but at least the glass is in. If the above link posted by AuroraGirl is in fact talking about replacing the entire molding with a new one that has the extension, then I stand corrected. But from the wording, it doesn't sound like it. leaks all gone? |
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Post by mraurora on Aug 29, 2022 19:00:00 GMT -6
Yes. All three leaks are dealt with. The leaking back windshield, the leaking vapor barrier in the rear door. And the leaking trunk seal. The adhesive in the trunk seal had dried up and the seal wasn't bonded to the metal. So I had to take the seal off, clean it and the metal (including some rust from sitting water) and reapply adhesive to the seal. I also put a bit of rtv around the seal to stop water from getting inside it.
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Post by AuroraGirlFromMars on Aug 31, 2022 5:07:37 GMT -6
Yes. All three leaks are dealt with. The leaking back windshield, the leaking vapor barrier in the rear door. And the leaking trunk seal. The adhesive in the trunk seal had dried up and the seal wasn't bonded to the metal. So I had to take the seal off, clean it and the metal (including some rust from sitting water) and reapply adhesive to the seal. I also put a bit of rtv around the seal to stop water from getting inside it. the seal doesnt need to be bonded by adhesive or sealant to the flange It was probably just not seated right But if the fix works, thats what matters |
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Post by mraurora on Aug 31, 2022 5:12:30 GMT -6
Yes. All three leaks are dealt with. The leaking back windshield, the leaking vapor barrier in the rear door. And the leaking trunk seal. The adhesive in the trunk seal had dried up and the seal wasn't bonded to the metal. So I had to take the seal off, clean it and the metal (including some rust from sitting water) and reapply adhesive to the seal. I also put a bit of rtv around the seal to stop water from getting inside it. the seal doesnt need to be bonded by adhesive or sealant to the flange It was probably just not seated right But if the fix works, thats what matters The seal wasn't as tight as it should have been, thus the need for the adhesive and sealant. If I could have bought a new seal, I would have. It was still pliable and looked good, but the innards were tired. |
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Post by AuroraGirlFromMars on Aug 31, 2022 7:24:52 GMT -6
the seal doesnt need to be bonded by adhesive or sealant to the flange It was probably just not seated right But if the fix works, thats what matters The seal wasn't as tight as it should have been, thus the need for the adhesive and sealant. If I could have bought a new seal, I would have. It was still pliable and looked good, but the innards were tired. you could in the future pinch the metal in the seal that "cinches" on , use butyl to make sticky, or use weather strip adhesive. even RTV near the top of the pinch weld would have enough grab but you got it |
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Post by mraurora on Aug 31, 2022 7:33:26 GMT -6
The seal wasn't as tight as it should have been, thus the need for the adhesive and sealant. If I could have bought a new seal, I would have. It was still pliable and looked good, but the innards were tired. you could in the future pinch the metal in the seal that "cinches" on , use butyl to make sticky, or use weather strip adhesive. even RTV near the top of the pinch weld would have enough grab but you got it Gurrrrl When I removed the seal (it was very loose along the bottom of the trunk) I had to clean out old, dried up yellow weather strip adhesive. Once that was gone, I put a bead of rtv on the pinch weld and reapplied the seal. Water leaked. A lot. Took the seal off, removed all the rtv (total nightmare). Put new weatherstrip adhesive on pinch weld, reapplied the seal. Water leaked. A lot. Put bead of rtv along the outer edge of the seal from about halfway up the trunk sides and all along the top of the trunk side. Finally kept the water out of the trunk. |
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Post by AuroraGirlFromMars on Aug 31, 2022 11:41:23 GMT -6
you could in the future pinch the metal in the seal that "cinches" on , use butyl to make sticky, or use weather strip adhesive. even RTV near the top of the pinch weld would have enough grab but you got it Gurrrrl When I removed the seal (it was very loose along the bottom of the trunk) I had to clean out old, dried up yellow weather strip adhesive. Once that was gone, I put a bead of rtv on the pinch weld and reapplied the seal. Water leaked. A lot. Took the seal off, removed all the rtv (total nightmare). Put new weatherstrip adhesive on pinch weld, reapplied the seal. Water leaked. A lot. Put bead of rtv along the outer edge of the seal from about halfway up the trunk sides and all along the top of the trunk side. Finally kept the water out of the trunk. something isnt right then. I know you just did all that but can you get any transfer chalk or marking paint etc that you can put on the seal and then close the lid Sounds like your flanges might be bent "in" which I referenced to check way early in the thread for the other leak, so it may be something |
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Post by mraurora on Aug 31, 2022 11:44:27 GMT -6
All the pinch welds are linear without bend or lean. Unless there's something I'm missing. If you're even in Central Florida, please stop by my house and look at my car. lol
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Post by AuroraGirlFromMars on Aug 31, 2022 11:46:58 GMT -6
All the pinch welds are linear without bend or lean. Unless there's something I'm missing. If you're even in Central Florida, please stop by my house and look at my car. lol can you take a pic of your trunk with the lid closed |
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Post by mraurora on Aug 31, 2022 11:49:18 GMT -6
 This is the only pic I have available at the moment. The car isn't at my house right now. |
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