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Post by gdouaire on May 21, 2022 13:33:07 GMT -6
Anyone know how to replace the belt tensioner (the accessories one, not the water pump)? It's only one bolt, but there's no room to slide a wrench, and a key won't do it. The bolt itself will also be impossible to remove. You can't really move what's in the way, because it's the A/C system...
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Post by gdouaire on May 21, 2022 13:34:14 GMT -6
Plenty of how-to for N* on youtube, but all for Cadillacs... and it's very different setup.
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Post by Marc on May 21, 2022 14:18:40 GMT -6
I looked at mine, a 2001 4.0. From what I saw, the A/C accumulator has to come out to get to that bolt.
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Post by AuroraGirlFromMars on May 22, 2022 12:55:28 GMT -6
not to sound like a smart ass but this is service data for it
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Paulaurora
Super Moderator
Posts: 3,828
Staff Member
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Post by Paulaurora on May 22, 2022 14:44:31 GMT -6
yes looks like just few steps .
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Post by AuroraGirlFromMars on May 22, 2022 14:50:42 GMT -6
Anyone know how to replace the belt tensioner (the accessories one, not the water pump)? It's only one bolt, but there's no room to slide a wrench, and a key won't do it. The bolt itself will also be impossible to remove. You can't really move what's in the way, because it's the A/C system...
how are your craddle mounts? you may try putting a hoist to the lift hooks and shimmy the engine over, you may try prying the engine if you have a suitable place to pry, you may try reverse brake a few hard stops before parking in your spot to try again, etc. your craddle may be just a little shifted or the mounts. i had to pry to clear my frame rail to do my balancer bolt on my 3800 in park avenue (albeit downwards vs sideways) also, a 3/8 breaker bar and impact 6 point socket is how I just did the tensioner on my f150 where the room infront of it would require removing the fan shroud . allows it to clear.
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Post by gdouaire on May 23, 2022 10:29:26 GMT -6
The service manual is completely off. Sure, there is only one bolt, but no context around this bolt... I miss the real service manuals in the 1980s or 1990s where they actually had the full procedure.
I may get away with this by trimming a 13mm socket and welding it to a flat piece of steel... depending on how long the bolt thread is.
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Post by AuroraGirlFromMars on May 23, 2022 16:15:57 GMT -6
The service manual is completely off. Sure, there is only one bolt, but no context around this bolt... I miss the real service manuals in the 1980s or 1990s where they actually had the full procedure. I may get away with this by trimming a 13mm socket and welding it to a flat piece of steel... depending on how long the bolt thread is. how about a wrench that takes a push in socket, where its like a ratcheting box end, but you push a socket into it. generic multi tool sets sometimes have this design. i mean, personally, a 3/8 ratchet and a short 13mm socket would be all I would need. then a 3/8 short socket
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Post by AuroraGirlFromMars on May 23, 2022 16:17:35 GMT -6
The service manual is completely off. Sure, there is only one bolt, but no context around this bolt... I miss the real service manuals in the 1980s or 1990s where they actually had the full procedure. I may get away with this by trimming a 13mm socket and welding it to a flat piece of steel... depending on how long the bolt thread is. also i know i dont exist but dont ignore my message earlier im pretty sure its your problem and you also look like your tensioner sits in front of the frame rail. is there a hole that passes through?
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Post by gdouaire on May 24, 2022 6:31:38 GMT -6
also i know i dont exist but dont ignore my message earlier im pretty sure its your problem and you also look like your tensioner sits in front of the frame rail. is there a hole that passes through? Unfortunately, there's barely room to slip a breaker bar (nevermind room for the breaker bar + part of the bolt thread) , and the bolt lines up right in the middle of the A/C accumulator, not the frame rail. That's why I was thinking about a tool made from 1/8 steel plate + a shortened socket.
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Post by AuroraGirlFromMars on May 24, 2022 7:05:31 GMT -6
also i know i dont exist but dont ignore my message earlier im pretty sure its your problem and you also look like your tensioner sits in front of the frame rail. is there a hole that passes through? Unfortunately, there's barely room to slip a breaker bar (nevermind room for the breaker bar + part of the bolt thread) , and the bolt lines up right in the middle of the A/C accumulator, not the frame rail. That's why I was thinking about a tool made from 1/8 steel plate + a shortened socket. the full thing I said I was referencing was "how are your craddle mounts? you may try putting a hoist to the lift hooks and shimmy the engine over, you may try prying the engine if you have a suitable place to pry, you may try reverse brake a few hard stops before parking in your spot to try again, etc. your craddle may be just a little shifted or the mounts. i had to pry to clear my frame rail to do my balancer bolt on my 3800 in park avenue (albeit downwards vs sideways) also, a 3/8 breaker bar and impact 6 point socket is how I just did the tensioner on my f150 where the room infront of it would require removing the fan shroud . allows it to clear." Your engine appears to be sitting far over and its probably not a hard or complex thing to shift it over
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Post by AmunRoo on May 30, 2022 12:54:45 GMT -6
You're going to have to remove the bolt on the front engine mount that sits in front of the radiator. Then you're going to have to lift the engine from underneath using a jack with a block of wood. This will push the tensioner up high enough to clear the chassis. You can also try to find a socket that has a hex at the end of it so you can put the socket on and get a wrench on the heck side. It wasn't that difficult to do. The only problem I had was finding a block of wood 😂🤣
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Post by Marc on May 30, 2022 13:28:29 GMT -6
That block of wood has to be wide and thick.
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Post by AmunRoo on May 30, 2022 14:59:04 GMT -6
That block of wood has to be wide and thick. No, it doesn't. You can use a 1x4 piece of wood. The pont is to distribute the force of the jack evenly along the lift point. I use a 1x4x8 inch piece of wood.
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