95 Driver's window switch replacement

[edpare]

I've seen many posts about window issues with Auroras but not with the switch itself. My driver's window switch is broken - I can move the little lever but it seems to get stuck with the window down and it doesn't always want to go back up. I bought a new switch cluster but don't have a repair manual. Can anyone one give me a hint how to begin to get at the switch so I can replace it? Once I get started, I think I can finish it but I don't want to tear up the driver's door panel trying to find a way in. Thanks in advance ;D

[TheLoveThatNeverDies]

I had to replace my window switch a while back for the same exact reason. If I remember correctly, there were three screws on the bottom of the door panel, and one under a little cover inside the door-handle bezel. From my experience, the trick to getting the door panel off (and more importantly back on) was the removal of the aforementioned bezel. Taking this thing off makes the process so much easier because it facilitates significantly more vertical and lateral movement while trying to do the positioning. To remove the bezel, just pull it away from where it meets the door panel. Once the screws and bezel are removed, you will be able to remove the door panel by first pulling it UP, then toward you. IMPORTANT: Once it separates, make sure to take note of the manner in which the wires are routed inside the door. You'll need to route them the same way when you reinstall the panel. Once the panel's mounting tabs are clear of the door, unplug the wires and remove the panel the rest of the way.

With the panel off, the switch replacement is pretty straightforward - a few screws, a plug, and you're done.

Reinstallation of the door panel can be kinda tricky because you have to align all of the mounting tabs to their respective holes, but just be patient and everything will work into place. I found that it worked best to start with lining up the three red tabs on the bottom and working up from there. As I alluded to earlier, the most important thing to be conscious of during reinstallation is ensuring that the wires are routed correctly inside the door. If the wires get pinched between the door and the panel, the panel will not fit correctly and the wires will eventually abrade, resulting in nasty electrical gremlins.

Sorry for the lengthy explanation, it's actually a pretty easy procedure - just a little tricky sometimes. I thought I took more pictures when I did mine, but I could only find a few - I put them below anyway. I'm sure the others will probably have some good advice too. Good luck, man - You got this

PICTURED BELOW:
The bezel and screw while attached to the door panel.




PICTURED BELOW:
The bezel after being removed.




PICTURED BELOW:
Inside view of the door panel. Notice on mine there are only two big red mounting tabs on the bottom as opposed to three - I got frustrated and ripped one off Anyway, the biggest obstacles to negotiate are the three black tabs on the top, the gray one on the left, and the three red ones on the bottom.



Let us know how it goes

-Shawn

[TJM]

hmmm - i thought the "wood" trim popped off - you can easily access the switch and connectors that way. (my wood trim does not pop off as it is krazy glued in place.)

[TheLoveThatNeverDies]

Mine didn't There were some metal retaining clips holding the "wood" on that would break the housing when pulled and could only be refastened from the inside. Maybe I missed something, but believe me - I tried REALLY hard to get the wood piece off before removing the panel.

[TJM]

Aaaah - maybe that's why my "wood" trim is krazy glued on...

[edpare]

Shawn; Thanks for the explanation and pix - great help! The whole operation took less than 5 minutes. Being forewarned, I only opened the gap between the panel and the door enough to reach down and unclip the old switch, snap in the new. Piece of cake! ;D