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Post by aarcuda on May 12, 2008 6:09:55 GMT -6
I could only get one of those off. Once I got that part off, the rest was a breeze. It moved quickly after that with nothing in the way Me too. I tried to take the hose off of the top but I could only get to the nut on the right hand side. the one on the left is blocked by the bracket. It was easier to take the bottom two nuts off (although I lost one nut and had to go to Home Depot for a new one). After changing the plugs, I had 1 plug that had the electrode worn off. 88890 miles with the factory DENSO plugs (wich, btw look exactly like the AC Delco plugs except for the name on them)
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Post by aurora2001tan on May 12, 2008 18:18:41 GMT -6
i cant believe you guys couldnt get both nuts off. Every valve I have taken off, the nuts need to be just loosened and then you can run them off and on by hand. Since almost no one hear will have the ratchet I had you might try a wrench or cut a wrench down to size. You only need to get those nuts loose a little...then they will almost fall off by themselves.
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Post by cadboy1 on Jun 24, 2009 19:38:03 GMT -6
Sorry I haven't posted the process. Problem is I have it written down in a shorthand that I would (apparently) only understand standing under the hood... And I have been unable to get that hood time. So here i what my coded process was - it may not make sense, until you look at it, if at all. There was a vacuum setup on the assembly. Remove the the nuts at the BOTTOM of the flexible hose (think it was aluminum flex hose). Remove the three screws holding the assembly to the top (remove them from the bracket, and remove as a whole). I believe the flex hose came out with the assemply - still attached at the top... Finally unplug all electrical connectors, and continue on as normal. This was not very difficult, just took a little time to figure it out. The process is just more complicated due to a lack of space in the area. Also, there were no wires, each coil was spring connected directly to the spark plug. This was on 2001 V8. Dan Good info here. I may tackle this next week.
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Post by oldwino on Aug 31, 2009 14:05:47 GMT -6
Changed my plugs yesterday. I was able to get the 2 nuts off that hold the valve to the bracket using a 1/4" drive 10mm socket and a chapman tool set. The torque value for the plugs is 13-15 lb/ft and the coil packs is 80 lb/in.
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Post by Brian R on Mar 5, 2010 19:24:07 GMT -6
I changed my 3.5L plugs. Most of this thread is about 4.0L so I thought this would be helpful. Other than removing the plastic cover on top and bending the oil dipstick tube *slightly* out of the way the only thing I had to remove was the clip/mount on the rear bank that the plastic engine cover clips in to.
By far, the only thing difficult about this was getting the coil packs unstuck. I used a thin putty knife which worked pretty well but that rear bank is tough. You don't have much space to work and I actually cracked the corner edge by prying there. Don't do that! I didn't remove the wire connection to the coils ... there is enough slack to leave it on so you eliminate the chance of breaking a connector.
The spark plug boots were very easy to remove and I used them to thread the new plugs in - worked great. Needed a swivel on my 3/8 ratchet for the rear driver's side plug and a wrench for the coil bolt in that lower corner ... otherwise just an extension and the right sized sockets. Used blue silicon to fill in two small areas of the coil gasket that got mangled but it really came off well for being so stuck to both parts.
The old plugs were original and still looked very good after 85K miles. Don't forget to use dielectric grease on the plug boots and anti-seize on the plug threads so the next person has it easy!
Total time around 1.5 hours working at a casual pace.
Hope this helps someone!
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Post by robaurora01 on Mar 5, 2010 19:33:40 GMT -6
the 3.5L engine is extremely simple on how to remove the spark plugs, the only issue I really had was removing the rubbers and then my springs inside the rubbers needed to be pulled since I kept them ( which I didn't know until once I got the a misfire lol ) I removed a valve that was connected in the way it made it much much easier to get the rear coil bank out and once I took it out and back in about like 3 or 4 times I could easly change the spark plugs in this car within 30 to 45 minutes taking my time
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Post by cadboy1 on Mar 7, 2010 20:05:06 GMT -6
If the valve has a flexible shaft cant it just be un bolted from the top and moved out of the way
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Post by CollegeAurora on Apr 12, 2010 20:06:23 GMT -6
So....hypothetically speaking, if I were to say, tear one of the boots about a half an inch off from the top where the coil pack attaches....would I experience misfire like symptoms?
Hypothetically speaking of course...
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Post by robaurora01 on Apr 13, 2010 15:35:19 GMT -6
just make sure you pull those stupid little springs on the inside and you will be fine
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Post by kinfolk87 on Jan 28, 2012 22:06:21 GMT -6
Just changed the spark plugs on my shortstar. Easy to get to in the front. The rear one are a bit difficult but easy for anyone that can get through tight places. Just be sure to pay attention to your surrounding parts, hose and wire/connectors then you can use how ever much force you need
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Post by rejs1970 on Feb 10, 2012 21:21:03 GMT -6
just did mine... front bank,, a breeze,,,, back bank,,, and big PITA!!!! you need midgit hands to get those damn nuts off the air control valve connection to the exhaust manifold...sure idles a lot smoother tho now ,,,,,,
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Post by tennesseerip on Jun 20, 2012 16:56:01 GMT -6
I have been changing my plugs and getting the room on back bank was difficult to say the least. I had to take that vacuum assembly thing that connect into the manifold apart to get it off the bracket (to get the bracket out of the way to remove coil back) and nowI have a leak where the two parts bolt together. Does anyone have a drawing of how this thing fits together tightly. It was so tight I couldn't see how it came apart on the bracket.
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Post by ntrenn on Jun 20, 2012 20:36:53 GMT -6
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Post by cadboy1 on Nov 18, 2012 9:03:13 GMT -6
At 99k I finally got to the plugs. The rear plugs, specifically removing the valve, are easy if you have midget hands. My solution was using a swivel adapter and long extension to get at the 2 nuts of the tube. Then I used a flex grabber thingy to retrieve the nuts. I have a flexible spark plug starter and used that to get the nuts started when it was time to reinstall. Like anything, the next time would take have as long. Hopefully I will replace the car before plugs are due again..
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Post by gdouaire on May 24, 2015 7:58:32 GMT -6
That was a very difficult task. Swivel tools are a must for the rear cylinder bank... The car is 180000km and I'm thinking they were never serviced.
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Post by tomdanizer on Apr 10, 2016 10:04:46 GMT -6
Does anyone have the pictures from the guide saved? They are failing to load for me at the moment. They had loaded for me once, and I could've sword I did a page 'save as' to save the whole page, but it seems to not be there.
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tigger
Administrator
Posts: 2,844
Staff Member
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Post by tigger on Apr 10, 2016 22:25:10 GMT -6
Does anyone have the pictures from the guide saved? They are failing to load for me at the moment. They had loaded for me once, and I could've sword I did a page 'save as' to save the whole page, but it seems to not be there. Yeah, like a lot of forums, we lose pics when owners close accounts or the host site takes them down. It's a pain... Do a Google search for 2001 Cadillac Seville/Deville spark plug change. Same as the 4.0, and we'll help with anything you may need. Let us know!
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